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Old 08-12-2004, 03:03 PM   #976
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If you scroll back a few pages (maybe more like 10), Todd posted some detailed information on how they set droop, if I remember it correctly.
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Old 08-12-2004, 04:49 PM   #977
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P.13 he describes how he does it - not sure if that's what you were referring to Future.
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Old 08-13-2004, 10:21 PM   #978
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Guys can you tell me what page Hodgimotto's Reedy set up is on or can you post it?

Thanks
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Old 08-13-2004, 10:55 PM   #979
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Fike-Yea that was David's setup that was used by a few of us including Open class winner Ryan Cavaleri

Front Suspension

Front toe-0
Ride Height-4.5mm
Camber -1.5
Caster- 2
Kickup- 0
Droop-7mm(had 2.5mm of uptravel)
Front Pivot-2R(yes rear block on front to get straight front pins)
Arm Spacing-Middle
Ackerman-Forward and Flipped
Spool with 41t front pulley
.060 washers under bellcrank ballstud
Chrome ball stud with one gold washer on caster block
Camber Link- #3
Shock Position- #4
Team Losi Low Roll Center
Oil-60wt
Piston-#56
Spring-Green
Shock Length-60.5mm

REAR SUSPENSION

Toe In-2
Ride Height-5mm
Camber -1.5
Droop- 9mm of travel(4mm of travel)
Pivot-2R
Arm Spacing-Back
Camber Ball stud-Black
Camber Link 6/A
Shock Position- #4/Outside on arm
Roll Center-TL Low
Standard rear end
Oil-40wt
Piston-#56
Spring-Blue
Shock Length-65.4mm

Body-Mazda 6
Tire Additive-BG2


-Trust me, it's fast! I just ran it at the KO race at Tamiya last weekend. No wonder Cav won between his talent and this setup.
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Old 08-14-2004, 12:07 AM   #980
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Thanks Jon, I appreciate the quick response.

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Old 08-15-2004, 08:33 PM   #981
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Default Lower weight

Does having a lighter car significantly effect cornering ability or does it primarily help with speed by providing less mass for the motor to accelerate?
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:33 AM   #982
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To my knowledge, it helps all around. The less weight you have to carry through a corner, the easier it should turn. Inertia wants to keep a car going straight in a turn. The heavier the car, the more inertia works on the car and the more force it takes to turn it. It is also the reason behind the massively heavy torque servos.

Also it effects right to left (and vice versa) weight transfer and balance going through an "S" turn. More weight will make the car lean more, and could make it difficult to corner hard when switching from one side to another. But that is where suspension adjustment comes in, to try and counteract those forces.

Of course we all know a lighter car will speed up quicker and have more top speed because of less weight to pull and less drag. Less drag on the drive system is so important because that is what helps your acceleration. That is why you want a silky smooth drivetrain if you can..
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Old 08-16-2004, 04:16 PM   #983
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Todd,

Just read your "How to Dial" article from several pages back. It was a very good reference - thanks for posting it.

However, even after reading that, along with the XXX guide, along with several published articles on roll center, I'm still a bit confused.

I understand the fundamental theory as far as how roll center is determined and how it's position changes the length of the CG/Roll center lever arm thus yielding more or less weight transfer and finally, traction.

What I'm still confused about is how the length of the camber link effects the whole equation; somthing that I've read a few places but a concept I still don't quite get.

Also, what effect does changing the position of the ball stud on the rear hubs have? Does it make a difference in how camber changes as the arm moves through it's arc and if so, how?

Actually, as I write this, it makes some sense to me that a longer link would result in less camber change through the range of motion and increased upper link angle which equates to a higher roll center as the suspension is compressed finally leading to less roll mid corner. So in effect does the length of the link change the 'traction band' of the suspension?

Kinda confusing question, I know, but any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
Griffin
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Old 08-16-2004, 10:49 PM   #984
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I have a question Todd I am new and thinking about trying modified on a small parking lot tight track. First is the black belt really worth running and if you could sugest a motor it would help a lot thanks
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Old 08-16-2004, 11:15 PM   #985
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OK.....Every body! GET THE BLACK BELT! Yes its worth the money if you can drive around the track and not smack boards all day long.

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Old 08-17-2004, 08:32 AM   #986
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The black belt is like the best hopup since threaded shocks. You'll notice a major difference in how free your car is.
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Old 08-17-2004, 08:42 AM   #987
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Griffin,

The length of the rod does effect exactly what you say. If you shorten the rod it changes the tire's angle and effects camber as the suspension is compressed. Thus making the car's tire angle sharper the shorter the rod length, and move at more of an arc throughout the suspension travel. On most cars, you have several places to mount the link. So depending on where the link mounted (low center or high outside), also effects CG, and the contact patch of the tires as the suspension compresses, giving you more or less tire angle/traction while it's compressing. When a tire leans into a corner it can help initiate the turn. It's the same concept behind toe in/out.

Just because your tires' contact patch is wider when you set the car down, it may be different when it's at the actual driving ride height or when it leans into a corner. All because of the length of the camber rod.
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Old 08-17-2004, 08:55 AM   #988
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Josh/imjonah-Yes it is very unfortunate that the car does not have droop screws that work perfectly. The problem is that when using the supplied droop screws with the supplied bumpers you get a lot of flex in the bumpers. As the car is going around the track you droop can change a lot with the flex that is in the bumpers. So from what I have found I like overlimiting the shocks and then adjusting the droop by unscrewing the shock ends so I have a solild down stop setting(droop).

imjonah-Weight is a lot of a cars handling capability. Lately at Socal I have been racing a car that is atleast 2 oz. under weight and this has been the most competitive I have been there. When a car has more weight that means your car has to accellerate and decellerate that weight which means more energy needs to be used. Also in corner, if your car weighs more that means the car has to roll that much more.

Griffin-The length of the camber link affects a lot. The longer the link the stiffer that end of the car is and vice versa. Changing the postion of the ball stud, by moving the ball stud into the wheel you will have less camber gain which gives you less offpower steering, more stability and at times more onpower steering. As you move the ball stud out of the hub you have more camber gain which by having more camber gain makes the car softer. by having it in this location you will have more offpower steering and the car will want to square up more exiting a turn(more traction). Hopefully I answered your questions...if not ask again:-)

ultraracer-The black belt does help significantly. It frees up the drive train alot which helps the car have more straightaway speed and less drag brakes. For a small tight track I would go with a 10x1.
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Old 08-17-2004, 01:50 PM   #989
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Hey Todd, can you give us any hints about the new Trinity product that's being released on October 1st?? Those full page magazine ads with the big spider have got me very curious!
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Old 08-17-2004, 05:46 PM   #990
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Todd, I ran the setup posted above that was used by Cavaleri and boy is that car hooked up. I am running a diff instead of a spool because I keep breaking the outdrives with a spool. The question I had is the car turned in very quick and almost felt darty. Otherwise is was very easy to drive. What would you recommend changing to smooth out the steering entry? Dual rate really didnt help much.
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