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Old 04-20-2004, 02:36 PM   #481
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By the way, the races are 5 minutes.
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Old 04-20-2004, 09:41 PM   #482
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Quote:
Originally posted by James Nguyen
yes part number TRIRC6102. I am using them in mine.
James,

Have you inspected the balls on the Trinity bearings to determine if they are all ceramic? I understand that some ceramic bearing suppliers alternate between ceramic & steel for every other ball.
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Old 04-20-2004, 11:33 PM   #483
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i will look again, i remember looking when i put them in but i forget if they are all ceramic.
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Old 04-21-2004, 05:51 AM   #484
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Todd,

Could you post a little somthing about spacing the arms foward another .050 on the xxxs. I remeber reading about this mod and would like to try it. do I need to move the servo as well??

thanks
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Old 04-21-2004, 11:28 AM   #485
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Went to the hobby store the other day, I think those guys need real help. One guy didn't even know about the new belt kit, let alone that the xxx-s uses a single belt. (what a dufous) I'm glad I ask here first. But I did find a guy who knew his stuff. He was a customer. I'll probably do a two tone drip job. I was just out picking up some paint (Candy Blue) and some masking, and hopefully the belt kit. I've been looking at the MG ZS body as an alternative. The indoor track I will be running at is a little on the small side. Lots of turns, narrow lanes, and maybe an 80' to 100' straight.

I'm wondering if the stock Alfa will be ok or if the MG ZS or another body might work for such a track?
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Old 04-22-2004, 12:29 PM   #486
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STLNST-I will have to talk to Jr to see what we can get designed....lol May be we can do a Titanium Nitride cane!!

wcoyote-I like it a lot....it is really nice to match your shocks when changing pistons. I think you should give the Alfa a try...it offers excellent traction on low bite surfaces.

mwcetk-I know the guys at Socal run about a 3.88 and that is a tight road course with a Monster Stock motor.

RandyB-Moving the arms forward takes away steering and makes the car much smoother. With a oneway I like this since it makes the car a bit easier to drive. I do not move the servo...just the bellcranks to the forward hole and flip them so the shorter end of the bellcrank is forward on the car. This helps correct the ackerman when running the arms further forward.
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Old 04-22-2004, 01:00 PM   #487
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Thanks Todd. I'm trying to make a list of the things I may need as far as tuning items. I'll run it box stock for a while just to see what changes in setup do. I figure a spool, some anti roll bars, and some low roll center blocks will be a good start on the next level of learning how the car reacts and handles.
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Old 04-22-2004, 02:32 PM   #488
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Well I just got the kit. Will be reading and assembling it within the weekend. I'll let you know if I have any more building/setup questions.
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Old 04-22-2004, 03:02 PM   #489
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Thanks Todd, I'll use that as a starting point.
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Old 04-22-2004, 03:41 PM   #490
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Todd
the fast guys at the track are running blue springs in front and green in the rear. this seems like a butt load of steering and no rear traction to me. I asked previously about double steer but i fixed that with the speedo (q2 5 drag and 5 initial). I run green front and blue rear springs with a diff (large track but very tight & technical 20+ sec laps) I've got a slight onpower push and I'm thinking about changing to blue front springs. Am I right in thinking this will increase all around steering. It's that or I'm considering goin to 2deg antisquat(0 right now) to free up the rear on power. Whadaya think?
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Old 04-24-2004, 09:47 AM   #491
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Poppa-If you go to more antisquat in the rear it will take away onpower steering. I would try going to the softer front spring or a stiffer rear spring(green all around). What camber links are you running??
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Old 04-25-2004, 08:20 AM   #492
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Hi all,

Maybe some of you can give me some advice. Previously, I had the car spinning out on me just after midcorner. Some had suggested me to tweak the car and i did. It worked fine after that.

The only thing that i didnt notice after i tweak the car, that i had use a new set of tyres after that. It seems that my problem happens with semi-old tyres(around 3-4runs).

I started to play with so many settings, with no results and i almost gave up. Finally, I change to another stock motor (high rpm, previously high torque motor). That was the ticket. Seems that the high torque motor gave too much motor braking, resulting in the rear end to break loose.

Yet I'm still thinking what can I do to the car so i'm able to use the high torque motor.

Below is my setup:

Front:
Arm spacing: center
Droop: 3
Camber link:2
Shock pos.:3
Shock: 50 AE
Spring: Purple
Antiroll bar: second thickest
Low roll



Rear:
Arm spacing: center
Droop: 3
Camber link: 1
Shock pos.:2
Shock: 40 AE
Spring: Blue
Antiroll bar:second thinnest
Low roll
Offset rear hub
link on hub:A
camber: -1 (all round)
tires: sorex 40
caster: 4 deg.

Running one-way on on-road asphalt, medium size track and 23T stock motor.
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Old 04-25-2004, 10:16 AM   #493
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I have recently purchased a xxx-s g+ used and I had a question on the rear ride height. It seems that I cant get anymore than 2.5mm of ride height in the rear with the shocks fully extended. I have the the droop screws backed all the way out. Ive checked both the front and rear shock assembles they are assembled right. I do have the low roll center blocks on and my tires are 55mm Dia. Im also wondering If people are running a longer spring in the rear because I have the 1" slivers springs on and the collars are threaded all the way down just to get the 2.5mm ride height. I do have some white 30lbs and black 25lbs on order but their 1" lg also. Can anyone help?

Thanks
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Old 04-25-2004, 10:24 AM   #494
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rcman,

I would check to see if you have the right shocks/shock shafts in the rear of your car. The rears are supposed to be the longer of the two. 28's for front, 32's rear.
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Old 04-25-2004, 10:36 AM   #495
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lozi-No setup change at all just put some forward throttle trim into the car and let it roll when you let off the throttle. This will help with the drag brake problem. The only negative you get from this is that you will have to hold the brakes on the start of a race.

rcman6-Like Brian said...check that the shock shafts are in the correct place. You can tell the short shock shaft by looking at the eclip grooves where the piston would sit. On the shorter(.28) there is a another smaller groove that is not as deep in between the eclip grooves. On the longer shafts(.36) there is on the eclip grooves. As for the shock springs, use a Team Associated C-Clip from on of their shocks under the shock adjusment nut. This will help you give more preload on the springs.
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