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Ask Todd Hodge..aka "Hodgimoto"

Ask Todd Hodge..aka "Hodgimoto"

Old 02-27-2004, 12:47 PM
  #226  
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smyka, running them off the chassis or off the bumpers? I can see where you can get the rear on the chassis but there's not enough room on the front arms to run then off the chassis.
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Old 02-27-2004, 08:03 PM
  #227  
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Evicerator-Go with Squier??

lazboy-I am not sure what you are doing wrong. I use .060 in my shocks and then unscrew the shock end to get the droop right.

smyka-THANK GOD HE IS BUYING A HOUSE!!!!!!!lol
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Old 02-27-2004, 08:25 PM
  #228  
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Todd will the Gen 2 diff components from the BK 2 work in the sedan diffs?
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Old 02-27-2004, 08:40 PM
  #229  
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todd i had a friend help me today that the ustc race i got it all squared out.
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Old 02-28-2004, 01:42 AM
  #230  
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hi,

How do you guys take care of the front one-way? What lube do you use (serpent one-way oil)? How often do you clean & relube it?
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Old 02-28-2004, 06:14 AM
  #231  
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not we run them both off the chassie if i can find some one with a digital camera i will post a picture of it but if you look at the front of the chassie you will seee a rib that goes down each side you need to flaten out about 1/16 of the end of it (i run long front wheel base) then drill a hole in the front arm and tap it their does not look like a lot of room but their is enought to make it work (just like the tc3 before they did the new chassie) i use 4/40 screws to do it but if you want you can go smaller than that ..


mark
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Old 02-28-2004, 09:16 AM
  #232  
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Kraig-No the BK2 diffs have a wider bearing spacing so it will not fit in the chassis. The screw and the spring are too long so they will probably not fit either.

lozi-I usually do not not touch mine....however I have used the serpent oil on them and it seems to help.
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Old 02-28-2004, 12:14 PM
  #233  
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Thanks Mark, I just finished doing the rear and it worked out great, now if I can just talk myself in doing the front. Well here's a pic of the rear, it was alot easier than I expected.

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Old 02-28-2004, 01:52 PM
  #234  
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Well I talked myself into it, couldn't resist the thought of never touching a shock again for droop Now I just gotta remember to bring the drill, charger and bits to the track incase I break an arm

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Old 02-28-2004, 03:19 PM
  #235  
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Looks good. It does look like like that could be a week spot on the arm.
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Old 02-28-2004, 04:09 PM
  #236  
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Not really jkerr, if the screw was not in there then yes it would be weak but with the screw in there it is as strong as it was without the droop screw.
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Old 02-28-2004, 05:20 PM
  #237  
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That's true. I may just have a project on my hands this week. Will be nice to set droop the easy way.
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Old 02-28-2004, 05:28 PM
  #238  
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Just be carefull jkerr, as-as you can see there isn't that much room on the arm so if you crack a side drilling out the hole it will be weaker even with the screw in there. I made pilot holes first with a dremel then followed with a drill bit followed by another that was bigger and finally threaded the screw in. Also watch your hingepin hole as you don't want to cut into that either, just have patience and it should workout. Oh and I just used the normal droop screws that came in the kit.
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Old 02-28-2004, 05:47 PM
  #239  
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I've got a very nice drill press to do it with. I hope I kept those droop screws
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Old 02-28-2004, 05:56 PM
  #240  
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do you have to thread the arm then?
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