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Old 07-09-2009, 03:11 AM   #16
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I use this http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=14555

I have 4 scale put under each wheel. that is the best way I think.

Last edited by ioxqq; 07-09-2009 at 11:22 PM.
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Old 07-09-2009, 03:42 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
I use this http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=14555

I have 4 scale put under each wheel. that is be the best way.
To me it is in fact the ONLY way to do it properly. Balance left to right without balance front to rear at the same time is a loss of time IMO. But then your car's angles have to be absolutely perfect, your springs have to be matched in length and hardness, etc...

it is never perfect but a gap of 10 to 15 grams between FL or FR (for instance) is still acceptable.
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Old 07-09-2009, 03:46 AM   #18
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These Team-Titan body post markers work like a charm.

http://www.team-titan.com.tw/newprod...06XX/606XX.htm
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Old 07-09-2009, 07:27 AM   #19
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Default tiny pocket scale ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/500-0-1g-GRAM-GR...3%3A1|294%3A50
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:08 AM   #20
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FYI: Some of the TRF cars like the MRE's & MSXX have small notches cut in the bottom center of the shock towers. This makes it easy to check L/R balance by simply picking up the car with two hex-drivers. Works every time...

This center notch was just added to those new 416 shock towers that came out a month or two ago...

Before:



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Old 07-09-2009, 12:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by capturefx View Post
i got home late this evening and i rushed to my rc car, flipped it over and to my surprise i found 3 pin holes lined up in the center ( great job hpi), two in the front and one in the rear i was like damn this thing does have balancing holes, before i got home i was at work ( at the car dealer) trying to rig up a balancing stand .. i used a self tapping screw flipped it upside down and used a cut off wheel as a base and super glued it together.

its not perfect because the tip of the screws, its still a little big but it works( i suggest using thinner screws) and as soon as i got the car on it , it immeadiately leaned to the battery side until the weels touched the table so i just kept adding stick on weights on the opposite side of the battery until i could keep the car leveled. and walah!

I JUST WANTED TO THANK EVERYONE FOR THERE HELP HERE, IT WOULD HAVE TAKEN ME DAYS TO FIGURE THIS OUT WITHOUT EVERYONES HELP . im going to start racing at the track this sunday i figured i'll start with the club racing class before i go to stock class. THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE . WISH ME LUCK.
Good thinking and using what was available! I wish you luck! This Sunday, if you can't beat them....wreck them! LOL! Nah, just kidding...have a great time
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Old 07-09-2009, 11:29 PM   #22
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heretic: You're right. that is what I concern too. So when I measure the balance I remove all 4 shocks and use something like a stick instead of the stock. Just make sure the Front and rear, R and L sticks has the same length that makes the car do not have any weight transfer due compress of the spring. +- 20 grams L and R is fine. You just never can get it prefect. Of course add the balance weight accordingly.
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Old 07-10-2009, 06:14 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ioxqq View Post
heretic: You're right. that is what I concern too. So when I measure the balance I remove all 4 shocks and use something like a stick instead of the stock. Just make sure the Front and rear, R and L sticks has the same length that makes the car do not have any weight transfer due compress of the spring. +- 20 grams L and R is fine. You just never can get it prefect. Of course add the balance weight accordingly.
I also tried the "rigid shock" also, but it is a bit boring. Either I would use a turnbuckle and adjust " ride height" with a droop gauge, or I would just preload the springs at the maximum, and then set ride height with the droop screws. But that second method is not satisfying because the chassis gets tweaked by the pressure applied by the droop screw.

Also with the turnbuckle I feel that the load applied on each wheel is not "natural", I feel that it is not distributed realistically on the 4 tires like springs would. But I may very weel be wrong, of course. For instance if you use this method, it would be extremely easy to have the car standing on 3 wheels just because of a 0.1mm error in your ride height measurement. With springs used, this tiny and negligible error is compensated , erased and you can have realistic weight on each wheel, within the 20g-margin you mention.

In fact I got the best results with : newly rebuilt shocks ( same rebound, etc), as-close-as-possible springs, and setup wheels mounted because they have that big O ring that makes the wheel touch the scale on one exact point, and not a larger area like tires ( even new) would.

sorry for my poor english, I hope that makes sense.
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Old 07-11-2009, 11:59 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by jt415gz View Post
I got some of these and they work well. That said, I've always just balanced left to right and used a tweak station. I wanted to see if there really was something to the 4 scale idea. Put some setup wheels on my car, lined the car up on the scales and my front tires were less then 1g off from each other and my rear tires were also less then 1g off from each other. The car was 52-48 front to rear. So either I got lucky or nothing more then the balancing pegs and tweak station are needed.
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:59 AM   #25
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Well I can help you to weigh your car in scale. But as you are asking I want to weight my car side by side so it's a quite difficult for me. Let see who person make your answer because I didn't see this first, and more for you very best of luck for your Sunday race.

Last edited by robin jack; 03-26-2013 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:02 PM   #26
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1/2" piece of strap & gravity

OR

http://www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog...categories_id=
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