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Old 06-29-2009, 08:28 PM   #16
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The nimh equivalent of a lipo balancer is something like the Novak smart tray. It takes each cell down to whatever voltage you want (usually 0.9V). Very easy to use.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:54 PM   #17
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Is it safe to use flux for better solder join when soldering batteries?
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:06 PM   #18
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I used flux to make it flow a little better. I'm not sure about everyone else.
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:16 AM   #19
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I do sometimes. Just have a damp cloth on hand and wipe the joint and battery end after you solder it. Flux is corrosive and will rust the battery!
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:27 AM   #20
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Thanks. How about battery bar connector? Any recommendation? I have seen copper, silver and gold. Pure copper is possible but pure silver... may be not I guess. They could have added a bit silver for better conduction. But how about the gold plated one? I don't think it is really gold. Please enlighten me. Thanks again.
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:32 AM   #21
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The bars are plated, not an alloy, the gold bars will be gold plated. Really, the plating is just to stop the tarnish of the copper metal and to give a little bling.

More important is the design of the bar. I always liked the Much-More standard bar - but when I switched to the Much-More premium bar I had issues with the bars pulling off the solder joint in off-road racing - because the bar is much stiffer than the solder joint. Stepped bars won't damage the heatshrink, but I have had to use flat bars for my B4 buggy because the battery tray is too narrow for the stepped bars to fit.

So to sum up - any stepped bar in a dogbone shape should be fine for 99% of applications. Silver or gold plating, depending on your taste.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:38 PM   #22
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The stiffer bars are better, if you can fit them in the tray. COpper is the best, but as mentioned tarnishes and doesn't look pretty after a while. I prefer copper bars, but they often aren't as stiff as the plated ones.
Get the best bars you can from a good manufacturer (the like of Trinity and other battery manufacturers are a good start). They are only a few $$ and make a difference.
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Old 06-30-2009, 01:06 PM   #23
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No need for flux if you have a really hot iron. Something like the Weller 80w for stained glass & wood carving is cheap and works amazingly well. Takes about 1 second to tin, and just over a second to solder. I usually shrink the cells first and then shoe-goo them together so their square. Then after several hours (or the next day) I tin the ends, and tin the bars. One quick zap from a freshly tinned iron is all you need to melt the two together.

BTW: If you tin the bars or cells with too much solder, the bars won't lay flat across the cells after you zap the first end on. You don't want a huge pile of solder after you tin
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:00 PM   #24
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just a thought dont know if it would work but what if you took the c or d size battery holders like you can get radio shack and just place the cells in the and just run the two wires in to one and then put a connector. or build what what would look like a dis charger with out the "mother board" to where the cells are all connected and again run wires off one end to make a pack. would that work.

im sorry i just dont see the point in spending time to build a pack then have a cell die and have to take that cell out and then re-solder and new one in when you can just build the 2nd one and just change them out just by pulling one out and putting one in
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Old 07-01-2009, 04:01 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shinta View Post
just a thought dont know if it would work but what if you took the c or d size battery holders like you can get radio shack and just place the cells in the and just run the two wires in to one and then put a connector. or build what what would look like a dis charger with out the "mother board" to where the cells are all connected and again run wires off one end to make a pack. would that work.

im sorry i just dont see the point in spending time to build a pack then have a cell die and have to take that cell out and then re-solder and new one in when you can just build the 2nd one and just change them out just by pulling one out and putting one in
Two obvious problems.

1. A pack like that wouldn't fit in any cars, which are designed for cell-only packs.

2. Battery holders are not designed to carry the current we use in racing.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:52 AM   #26
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Thanks for everyone's help so far. I did a further reading. About my question earlier regarding discharging, I came across older threads about deadshort.

Is deadshort basically getting cells to stay at 0 volt? What is good about it? Also with Much More Zero-V it recommends keeping cells at 0 volt for 3 days and so on. Could anyone please enlighten me about it?

Also what is dangerous about deadshort? How could it cause fire while the battery is at 0 volt?

Sorry I am really new to all these. The old discussions I came across are not clear enough for me to really get my head around them. I would appreciate very much all your advice, though I know with battery care people have different opinions. But just tell me what you think. Thanks heaps!
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:37 AM   #27
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Quote:
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im sorry i just dont see the point in spending time to build a pack then have a cell die and have to take that cell out and then re-solder and new one in when you can just build the 2nd one and just change them out just by pulling one out and putting one in
It's all part of racing. If you don't put in the time, you won't get the result
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Old 07-01-2009, 04:18 PM   #28
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true did not really thing about that, and right now i just dont have to time to build packs even know i wont to. im sorry you never know what you getting when you buy a pre-built pack. i have bot one or two that the hobby shop could not get to charge. idk i guess i will order the cells and every thing and set down one day and build 2 or 3 of them. or buy the ones that the hobby shop down here makes if they dont work i get a new one.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:00 PM   #29
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Hm... it seems people must have had enough of deadshorting discussion and been sick of it.

But a question though. I haven't used a discharger tray before because I have been using stick pack. When discharging cells on a tray, do we have to take the pack (batteries side-by-side) apart beforehand?

Thanks.
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:50 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xniperliams View Post
Hm... it seems people must have had enough of deadshorting discussion and been sick of it.

But a question though. I haven't used a discharger tray before because I have been using stick pack. When discharging cells on a tray, do we have to take the pack (batteries side-by-side) apart beforehand?

Thanks.
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