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Old 02-22-2002, 09:20 AM   #16
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I use teflon motor shims from Peak to shim the armature
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Old 02-22-2002, 09:55 AM   #17
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Default THANK YOU!!!

i have had a trinity tru-lathe 2 for some time.... stopped using it cause i thought i just don't have the knack for cutting comms, i always get a deep groove one the cut back.

never blamed the tool, thought it was me. so, is the tru-lathe-3 better (has dovetails guides rather than bearings. heard dovetails are better) what is a lathe in the same price range as a tru-lathe that you would recommend?

Thanks again!
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Old 02-22-2002, 11:33 AM   #18
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I've owned two Cobra lathes and they've worked well for me, I can also recommend the Orion lathe and the Hudy lathes.

Whatever lathe you get, you're better off getting "v-block" supports rather than bearing supports. The Cobra and Orion come standard with V-blocks, on the Hudy lathes it's an option.

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Old 02-22-2002, 12:50 PM   #19
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I have the Orion and think it's great, very easy to setup, you don't have to shim the armature or put a pinion on it, comes with a slave motor, switch and all the wireing
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Old 02-22-2002, 02:33 PM   #20
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Pat
the eagle lathe is purple not red.
Do you not have trouble dumping with just 2 cells?
I only usually get two skims from my lathe with 4 cells
although they are admittedly very old 1700's.
I don't think the dual belt drive system is vey efficient.

Thanks
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Old 02-22-2002, 07:31 PM   #21
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dw

No problem with dumping, actually I use 4 but in two sets so I have two packs of two cells in parallel creating a 2.4V 4000 mAh pack. I can cut atleast a dozen coms on a charge with it. I cut everyones com that asks for it.
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Old 02-23-2002, 09:53 AM   #22
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While you're talking about lathes, does anyone have the directions for the Trinity Lathe that they can copy/fax/scan for me? I got one in a parts lot, and I'm hopelessly ignorant for how to use it, since I've never had one. I figure that the directions are a good place to start.

I'd really appreciate it. If you have access to a fax machine, I'll gladly set it up so you can fax it to me collect. A scan is just as good, emailed to the address below.

Much appreciated - Mark
[email protected]
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Old 02-23-2002, 02:06 PM   #23
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If you have ever seen the Trinity instructions you would realize they are not a good place to start. About all they were good for was wiring up the switch.

Sorry I threw mine away a long time ago. Trinity never was one to include very good instructions in anything.
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Old 02-24-2002, 07:04 AM   #24
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thanks!

coincidentally, i was supposed to get the cobra lathe, but sheldon's was out of stock during that time, so i ended up getting the trinity....

thanks for the advice....
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Old 02-26-2002, 03:28 PM   #25
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v block or bearings
i would have thought bearings are better
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Old 02-26-2002, 04:40 PM   #26
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Why would you have thought that bearings are better? You have moving parts vs a solid piece of metal, which do you think will have better tolerences? Which do you think can wear out? Which can get shavings inside and lock up?

The bearing idea was for marketing because RC racers see bearing and immediately think it must be better. Thats not the case. A good set of V-Blocks will last darn near forever.

Bearings can work if care is taken, but they are just an unnecessary complication.
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Old 02-26-2002, 05:39 PM   #27
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Default v-blocks or bearings

The way it was explained to me in the newsgroup:

bearings have a small gap between the actual steel balls and the outside and inner rings. This is necessary, otherwise the bearing would just bind. These gaps then cause flat spots when the bearing is spinning, as when the the load on the outer ring is between balls would be lower than when it is directly on a ball itself. We're talking very small differences here, but still differences.

Dovetails just plain don't have this problem.
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Old 03-02-2002, 12:06 PM   #28
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comm oil required when you cut with a carbide tip, right?
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Old 03-04-2002, 07:21 AM   #29
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isn't that regardless of the bit, you would need to use comm oil to avoid overheating the bit and the comm itself during cutting.

i read that especially during the last pass, comm oil is necessary otherwise you'll end up glazing the comm.... comments anyone?
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Old 03-04-2002, 10:57 AM   #30
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only difference I noticed using oil was the oil flying at my face and the copper sticking to the bit. There seemed to be no noticeable difference to the cut.
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