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Old 01-04-2004, 12:42 PM   #16
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after discharging and equalizing should i wait for the pack gets cool before start charging????
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Old 01-04-2004, 12:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by promatchrcr
and use a Pro Match Tray for 20 to 30 mins before charging

YES Let them cool completely before recharging.
I tray them before charging on race day. You can tray them throughout the race day but it is not a must.
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Old 01-04-2004, 01:32 PM   #18
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NiMH:

When racing (stock) I charge with my GFX at 6amps doing a first peak with 0.04 then a 180 second pause and 2nd peak at 6amps and 0.01 detection. In theory I do the same for mod except using 5 amps for first peak and 5.5 amps for second peak (though in practice I get lazy and just do it all at 6amps).

With my practice packs I use my quasar pro and charge at 5 or 5.5 amps with 0.04 peak detection and only do a single peak, watching the mah count to make sure I didn't get a false peak.

After racing I discharge my packs down to 0.9 per cel and store the pack away. Next week on race day I pull the pack out and tray it down to equalize the cels then charge it and race.

My good packs I only run once or twice per week.. my practice packs I run 'em, discharge them to 0.9v, let 'em cool and charge and run 'em again. I could use my good packs more than once/week but I have enough batteries that I don't have to so I'm trying to make them last as long as possible.

Yesterday after racing 8 minutes in 4 cel 1/12th, after the main I had 1039 mah left (stock race, took 2nd place) and 717mah left (mod race, took 1st place) in my Kinetix packs after the race... gotta love 3300's!

Thinking back, I can't beleive we used to get 8 minutes on 1200 and 1400 SCRs back in the late 80's/early 90's
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:05 AM   #19
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Default Re: Peak detect

Quote:
Originally posted by leekayliang
JPT249, i think u have misunderstood my post.

What I meant is peak detect at 0.03 ( 30mV ) to 0.04 V ( 40mV ) for a 6 cell pack which is about 7mV per cell.

The reason for a range because some chargers uses temperature detection to detect full charge. At full charge the cells should reach a specific temperature. If u are using these, you should set at a lower peak detect first and once peak, check the temperature and if the temperature is not high enough, go for the higher peak detect voltage.
My bad! I just misread what you had said. Anyways, I am still debating on whether to go with the Quasar Pro, Millennium, or Intellipeak Digital. The Intellipeak looks good but from what I gather you should not pulse charge nimh's, right?
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:00 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Geek


Thinking back, I can't beleive we used to get 8 minutes on 1200 and 1400 SCRs back in the late 80's/early 90's


Wow, someone else remembers those things? SCE's, SCR's, and the original RC10 gold-tub chassis was my start in this hobby at about age 12 I think. Remember the Armstrong hand-cranked chargers? Batteries were charged when your arm told you so.
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:02 PM   #21
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What would be the best 30 amp discharger to buy? Say like the promatch or trinity real time discharge trays? Anyone have any suggestions. I am using 3300's and i have an lrp pulsar comp. , which only dischages at 10 amps, and i want to discharge them properly at 30 amps. Any advice on which to get would be appreciated.
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Old 01-05-2004, 12:53 PM   #22
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Contact Erika at Pro Match 1-928-855-2226; and get the Deans discharge light strip and Pro Match cut off switch. It is 20amps and the switch will stop it before it goes too low. Use the Pro Match tray to equalize the pack.
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Old 01-05-2004, 02:42 PM   #23
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I got the Reactor 30 from Integy and really like it compared to the bulb ones (made my own 20 amp but wanted a 30). Reactor is nice and compact.

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...20104416494.91
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Old 01-05-2004, 03:07 PM   #24
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Now what is the difference between discharging them at 20 amps, compared to discharging them at 30 amps? I know from reading that it seems doing it at 30 amps will let you put a bigger charge on the pack, and will give it more power?? Am i correct?? So should i buy a 20amp or 30 amp discharger?
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Old 01-05-2004, 03:16 PM   #25
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What about the Integy indi activator X .5 amp discharger? anyone with experience?
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Old 01-05-2004, 05:26 PM   #26
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30 amps puts alot of strain on the battery, 30 amps is used to weed out the weak cells during matching. 20 amps is fine.
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Old 01-05-2004, 07:06 PM   #27
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Thanks for the reply, i am probobly going to buy the 20 amp discharger, i think i will be getting the integy 20 amp discharger, we'll see, let me know anyone who has experience with these if they are any good, or if anyone has heard good or bad things . Thanks Brian
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:27 PM   #28
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No problem, glad to help.
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Old 01-05-2004, 10:44 PM   #29
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if a modified motor uses to drain 30amps or more (average load), why a 30A discharger puts a lot of strain on the cells???

beyond this....what's the differences between 20amps and 30amps discharging (higher and/or lower AV, IR and runtime).....I'm asking for this not in matching process, but in battery maintenance....
i need to know what each method yields....
The only thing i know is that deep discharging can increase AV and reduce IR, but runtime will be decreased (20~30seconds)....i think it'll work great on stock racing only...
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Old 01-06-2004, 06:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by SalvadoriRacing
if a modified motor uses to drain 30amps or more (average load), why a 30A discharger puts a lot of strain on the cells???

beyond this....what's the differences between 20amps and 30amps discharging (higher and/or lower AV, IR and runtime).....I'm asking for this not in matching process, but in battery maintenance....
i need to know what each method yields....
The only thing i know is that deep discharging can increase AV and reduce IR, but runtime will be decreased (20~30seconds)....i think it'll work great on stock racing only...
I have 4 ways of dischargers my 3300 packs and here is what I have concluded...
Deans "bulb" tray: The bulbs get hot and can burn you, if you have to watch it closely because there is no "cut-off".
Integy 16x3 2.5v charger/discharger 4 amp discharge, ... Better but not quite the 30 AMPS I want...
CE Turbo 35BL: Does a fine job and running 4 electric cars I rather use it for charging/repeaking the packs
The Integy indi 30 AMP discharger Has built in cutoff and a fan that helps keep the cover cooler. So if you walk away it's OK... Push 1 button and done... It's what I always use and some of the racers will use it too. I have a 3 fan setup that I made 2 in a stand to cool off car and the other fan I use to help cool down the discharger and batteries.

I use stick packs ( I run Tamiya F1's and it only takes stick packs)
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