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Old 11-12-2005, 02:53 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fatdoggy
Busted my crappy $6 iron on the weekend. The iron and the handle became loose, I pulled out the tip and ash fell out. Home depot has 80wt wellers for $20 with hugh tips. Looks good to me.
For building batteries, the 80 watt weller is the best .. As long as you take care of the tip.. i only use mine for building batteries.. It gets very hot and for regular racing where you leave it on all day it will pit the tip.. If you buy it i would save it for the purpose.. i have had mine for over 2 years.. ive used it to build 50-100 packs.. it works mint and the tip still looks great.. definaly worth the 20 dolar investment..

I have my ungar 300 series soldering station for race days// its nice cause you can turn down the temp when your not using it.. heat kills the irons..
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Old 11-12-2005, 03:01 PM   #62
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Go here get the one that's not digital it's only 34.95 these are great units and you can do both http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/7508 480 deg C is 928 F
I have this iron and if you use the larger chisel tip it is perfect. I think the problem a lot of people experience with soldering batteries is a result of small tips. I don't see any reason to use a 120 watt iron. In fact I would bet a 120 watt iron with a small tip would still not solder batteries as well as a 40 watt iron with a proper tip. All you need is 40 -60 watts with a large chisel tip. my two cents.
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Old 11-12-2005, 03:19 PM   #63
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The most common reason for solder not properly melting is the flux is gone.. I have a little container of flux.. I put a small smount of flux on both items needing to be heated..

when i build batteries here is my process..

i use a liught sanding wheel and a dremel to car the face of the cell..( some people say it isnt nessessary, but i have yet to have a battery bar come off since i started doing it.. i add a small amount of solder.. then i tin the bar.. i dip the bar is rosin, and put a small amount on the face of the cell.. heat them both up and it melts fast and stick good.. It may look a bit messy, but i use a rag with motor spray to wipe off any exess rosin left on the parts..

you do need good heat, but i have assembled batteries with a cheap 4 dollar 30 watt iron.. with a 1/8 tip.. if you get the solder to melt fast and you can be quuick it works.. the other thing that you need to lok at is what bars you use.. Large bars will soak up and disipate the heat faster.. so you may need more heat so it melts faster..
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:15 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burbs
For building batteries, the 80 watt weller is the best .. As long as you take care of the tip.. i only use mine for building batteries.. It gets very hot and for regular racing where you leave it on all day it will pit the tip.. If you buy it i would save it for the purpose.. i have had mine for over 2 years.. ive used it to build 50-100 packs.. it works mint and the tip still looks great.. definaly worth the 20 dolar investment..

I have my ungar 300 series soldering station for race days// its nice cause you can turn down the temp when your not using it.. heat kills the irons..

I've got me one of those Ungar 300 series irons as well. It's like 15 years old now and still works great. Any idea if parts are still available?
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:27 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by THE DARKSIDE
I've got me one of those Ungar 300 series irons as well. It's like 15 years old now and still works great. Any idea if parts are still available?
I had one of those Irons also,you can check here for parts, http://www.action-electronics.com/weller.htm#Sl I have a Goot TQ-95 with the flat tip it works awsome for the track,press the button and it will go 120 watts of HOT!HOT! HOT! Wellar also has a 120 watt monster that is even bigger the the 80 watter,if you build a lot of batteries that would be the one to have.
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:43 AM   #66
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If you're looking for a good cost/benefit iron, I recommend the 60W Hakko Red soldering iron. Here's some info:

http://www.glasselevator.net/bob/?q=node/206
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:51 AM   #67
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Anybody know where you can get replacement heating elements for the Hakko 936 irons? After a couple years of use I have noticed my Hakko is not holding the heat like it used to. I am assuming I just need to replace the ceramic heater in the iron.

Also, I would not recommend that Circuit Specialists iron. I owned it before my Hakko. While it may look like a Hakko it cannot hold a candle to it. It would loose it's heat to fast when soldering batteries. The Circuit Specialists iron is only 40w.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:00 AM   #68
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You can check here they carry Hakko stuff, http://www.kiesub.com/
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Old 11-14-2005, 08:00 AM   #69
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anyone tried this before?

http://www.amainobj.com/batt.html
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Old 02-20-2007, 01:29 AM   #70
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I'm thinking of getting the TQ-95 Goot soon.....

and I'd just like to check if I've been reading all this correctly.

1: If I want to do battery bars just use the side of the standard tip?

2: Although a chisel tip might help it's not really required (see question 1).

3: Because this can go up to 200 watts when you press the button (240v version) basically if I want to do deans plugs or delicate rewiring of an Esc then push the button ONLY for as long as it takes for the solder to melt then get the iron away?

4: If I use the boost button to warm up the iron then release it will the 20 watt setting be hot enough for deans/corraly style connectors or as mentioned in Q3 use the boost?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-20-2007, 03:39 PM   #71
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Old 02-23-2007, 09:18 AM   #72
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