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Old 01-01-2004, 08:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by spyderx
I use a weller 60 wt solder station with a larger tip and adjustable temperature for batteries. I just built 6 packs and that thing just keeps working cell after cell. Less than 2-3 secs per end. I have yet to have a solder joint break on a battery pack. I have replaced the tip once in a year.
I have this iron in the 80 w version it is bloody awesome heats up extremely quick nd has a great tip for batts as well as motors
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Old 01-01-2004, 09:04 PM   #32
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What do you guys mean when you say the solder on - ends of cells doesn't flow easily? I've never had this problem. My crappy $6 iron takes less then 2 seconds for all the solder on the cells to melt.
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Old 01-01-2004, 09:29 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
What do you guys mean when you say the solder on - ends of cells doesn't flow easily? I've never had this problem. My crappy $6 iron takes less then 2 seconds for all the solder on the cells to melt.
I have problems with the negative ends. Always seem to get cold joints because i'm afraid to let the iron stand on the cell too long.
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Old 01-02-2004, 12:49 AM   #34
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If your worried about heating up the cell too much don't heat the bar while it's sitting on the cell. Hold the tinned bar with pliers and then heat it up before placing it on the cells. Each cell should have a flat tinned surface so that the solder from the cell and the bar can flow into each other. It will take a while to get it right but it works for me. Generally any more then 5 seconds to do the job and your iron isn't hot enough or is in bad shape.
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Old 01-02-2004, 12:52 PM   #35
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Busted my soldering iron... goot irons any good?

Quote:
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
I have a wider tip that might fit off the iron i broke. I don't want to damage the cells by holding too long but I guess there's no way around it when soldering the negative ends.
im not sure if your other iron's tip will fit that iron, this iron uses a weird way of putting on the tip.

there is another way of soldering the negative end..and that is get an iron with a huge ass flat tip. it melts the solder off the negative end in seconds! my friend have a 40W iron and it works great!
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Old 01-02-2004, 12:56 PM   #36
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Anyone know where i can Find a hako cheaper than 69.99 shipped?
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Old 01-02-2004, 04:18 PM   #37
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Here's my broken iron and tip. On goot's site it shows a similar style of tip so maybe this one will work?



If this iron isn't good for batteries, maybe i should cancel my order?

Last edited by AWOLsoldier; 01-02-2004 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 01-02-2004, 04:36 PM   #38
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Find a Hobby Lobby and buy an Inland Soldering Iron. They have one that you can control the Temp right on the Iron and one without the temp control. The one with cost about $50.00 and the one without is about $30.00. This is one of the best irons I have every purchased, it's a deal for the money. They are both listed at 100W, the tips are replaceable. It comes standard with a wide tip, sorta of like the one posted on your pic. I purchased a smaller tip for use on the brushes. I paid $10.00 for the tip

Trust me, it's a deal.
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Old 01-02-2004, 04:57 PM   #39
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Thanks but no hobby lobbies near me. Here's another iron i found for stained glass type work. It's 100 watts and has a huge tip. Anyone use one like this? They have some that are 150 watts too.

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Old 01-02-2004, 05:13 PM   #40
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AWOLsoldier: I would like to know how it work when you get it. I looking to get a new iron soon.
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Old 01-02-2004, 06:55 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by AWOLsoldier
Here's my broken iron and tip. On goot's site it shows a similar style of tip so maybe this one will work?



If this iron isn't good for batteries, maybe i should cancel my order?
it looks like it might fit...but not sure. you could give it a try, the GOOT soldering iron isnt bad! just keep holding the 150 button!

man..you really killed that iron good!!
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Old 01-08-2004, 02:57 PM   #42
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Just got the goot iron today and built a pack with it. This iron is probably the best iron i've ever seen! Press the little button and after a few seconds the whole iron is cherry red and it takes 2 seconds to fix a bar on a cell. The tip seems small but actually does an excellent job and at the heat it kicks out, a wider tip wouldn't really make much of a difference.

Other than slightly melting my deans jig and some of the cell shrink wrap, i give the goot 2 thumbs up. I'll post some pics later if anyone is interested.
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Old 02-14-2004, 11:41 PM   #43
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Im considering getting the goot that you're talking about and I have a few questions. Is it good for soldering motor wires, battery wires, and connectors without using the 150Watt button? I just want it to be at a controllable temperature for doing that kind of stuff. Can you keep it a a controllable temperature when using the 150 Watt button? Your saying that it gets cherry red kind of scares me. Will it fit in any stand? Id like to go as cheap as possible with the stand since it dosnt really matter. Is that site that you posted reputable?

Thanks
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Old 02-15-2004, 08:05 AM   #44
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Just buy the goot iron. It is a do it all iron. I think it's the best iron on the market for it's price. I have soldered all my rc stuff with this iron from servo wires (22 gauge) to 12 gauge speedo wires. As far as controlling temperate? Why? The hotter temperate the faster the solder melts. It all depends on which solder to use... The easiest solder to use is Kesters 63/37 solder. Because of the low melting point.
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Old 02-15-2004, 09:28 AM   #45
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Is the tip that comes with it decent? Is it flat style or pencil style?
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