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Old 01-01-2004, 10:11 AM   #1
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Default Balancing Your Chassis

I'm starting this thread after reading many threads looking for info on chassis balancing, but I couldn't find much info.
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Old 01-01-2004, 10:55 AM   #2
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If you have a touring car, there is a good chapter in the XXX Main Chassis Tuning Guide regarding balancing.
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Old 01-01-2004, 01:44 PM   #3
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I wanted to know the pro's and con's to balancing your chassis by adding additional weight to balance the chassis. I have a Yokomo SD and I have added about +/- 2 ounces to side of the chassis opposite the batt. This allows me to balance the car perfectly on a set of golf tees. The balance point of car from front to back is approx 10mm towards the rear from center. This overall balance seems good, but what are the con's to adding weight, except for a heavier car.
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Old 01-01-2004, 01:53 PM   #4
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Shiloh; I have a tuning guide similar to the xxx main one. a perfectly balanced chassis seems to be the best way to set your car up, but I rarely ever see people doing this. I have noticed some of the pros doing this, but I don't know to what extent they stop adding weight. adding only a few grams seems ok, but adding 2-3 ozs to your cars weigth seems to be a bigger outcome to performance than a balanced chassis.
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Old 01-01-2004, 01:56 PM   #5
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I thought that I hit the submit button on my second post, but I guess I didn't. that was about three hours ago.
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Old 01-01-2004, 01:58 PM   #6
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If you are in the USA, there is an article about weight balance in the latest Xtreme RC magazine (#98) that you might check out if you're interested. The XXX Main guide talks about it as well, as Shiloh suggested.

Otherwise, the basic idea is to have the same amount of weight on the left and right sides of the chassis to get an even amount of roll response from side to side. If most of your weight is clustered around the centerline, your car should respond more quickly than if it were on the outsides of the chassis. So ideally, you have the same amount of weight on both sides, and it is equidistant from the centerline, and as close to it as possible. You also want it to be low in the chassis to drop your CG as low as possible.

For front-to-rear distribution, there's usually less you can do with a TC, since major weights like the battery, motor, and electronics can't be moved around very much. However, a lot of cars allow you to change the car's wheelbase, and a side effect of this is the ability to move boths sets of arms to the front or the rear, which will shift the weight distribution of the car. Moving both sets of arms forward moves the weight to the rear, and vice versa.
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Old 01-01-2004, 02:21 PM   #7
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Thanks Futureal, the last issue of extreme is what got me thinking of this. I have never really thought much about chassis balance until I read that article. So I now have a balanced car and can't wait to try it out. Have to work the next two weekends, so going to the track will have wait. I think this will help the transition from left to right. Just have to wait and see.
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Old 01-01-2004, 04:14 PM   #8
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To address your other question (do I really want to add more weight), it really depends. If your car is out of balance left-to-right, then yes, it's a good idea. However, you DO want to keep your car as light as possible, so always look first at ways to reduce weight rather than add it.

When you do add weight, start along the centerline of the chassis, and as low as possible. From there, try and bring the car into balance.

It's pretty simple stuff. Not everybody worries about it, but I see a lot of people blindly adding hopups and junk to try and ramp up performance, but they never try some simple balancing.
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Old 01-01-2004, 11:09 PM   #9
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futureal, I agree with you as being over looked. If you are familar with the SD, then you know how little space there is on this chassis. I have added the weight as far to the outside of center as I could trying to maxamize the use of the weights I added. it's also close to the center(front to back) as it can be.

As far as people blindlessly adding hop ups in search of better performance, I couln't agree with you more. How many hopups do you see pro drivers using? Not many, normally they run a box stock kit.

I should have tried to balance my xxx-s. It never felt consistant between left and right turns. It always streered better when turning to the right(battery side).
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Old 01-01-2004, 11:46 PM   #10
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I made my own setup. I took a piece of 3/4" MDF and screwed a 1/8" piece of lexan on top of it. I also put levelors on the bottom and a 2 way bubble in a pocket under the lexan. I picked up two poastal scales at OfficeMax for about $30 each.

Here is what I do:
I set my droop, then my ride height. Then I set camber and toe. I then use something similar to paint stirring sticks from the hardware store (actually I made mine out of 3mm fiberglass). I put one on each scale and set the car on top of them with a wheel at each end of the stick and use it to set left and right distribution. Then I rotate the car 90 degrees and set distribution front and rear. Most people say the rear should be about 2oz. heavier than the front. For tweak. I then set both rear tires on small pedistal that are the same height as the poastal scales and adjust the spring collars until I have equal weight on both front tires. It usual only take about a half a turn either way and doesn't effect ride height. I can usually get mine within 2 or 3 grams very easily.

Hope this helps,
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:13 AM   #11
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I've been planning on doing that same setup for a long time. (ever since I saw the IRS tweekstation for $230!) I just havent done it yet.
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by jcrouse
I set my droop, then my ride height. Then I set camber and toe.
This order works fine if you run tires that are always the same diameter, such as rubber tires. If you run foams, then you need to set ride height first and then set droop using uplift. That way your droop is correct for your tire diameter. If you set droop first and you use foams, your setup will never feel the same. There is a chapter about this topic in XXX Main Chassis Setup Guide.

Here is what I do for racing on carpet:
true my tires
put tires on car
balance car weight left to right
set ride height (I use anywhere from 4mm to 4.5mm when racing on carpet)
set tweak
set droop so chassis can lift about 1.5mm above static ride height before tires lift from ground (this is called 1.5mm of uplift or uptravel)
set camber
set toe
set car on track and run a couple laps paying close attention to on and off power steering
adjust droop as needed according to tips in XXX Main Chassis Setup Guide so the on and off power steering are dialed
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Old 01-02-2004, 02:36 PM   #13
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Has anybody try integy laser tweak ?
I bought this but not sure how to use it since the instruction is in japanese. (Eagle Racing/ Asian version)
What is the best way to make it balance ... put more weight or adjust the shockies ?
Anybody has the instruction in English ?

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Old 01-02-2004, 02:42 PM   #14
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When you're setting tweek, you want to do it with the shock collars. Get the weight balanced with weight as close as you can, then set the tweek with the preload colars.
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Old 01-02-2004, 09:02 PM   #15
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Jcrouse- do you have any pics of your setup station?
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