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Old 05-04-2010, 03:57 PM   #526
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just saw this on the corally site - NEW! RDX PHI '09 CHASSIS 'SUPER NARROW'
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/coral...FSName=Corally

Anyone has anymore info about this or pics of it on the car?
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Old 05-05-2010, 05:07 AM   #527
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The car is supposed to have the straight arms to give them ago but I have been having trouble getting them in Australia (2 Months so far) and have ordered from the UK as well and they should arrive late next week hopefully.

I notice when you run the straight arms you have to replace the front sway bar wire does this help the issue?

Michael
I have just been fitting the straight arms here in NZ, and found a few things to consider...
You really want to move the rear diff to the forward position so the driveshafts are straight. And the shocks line up really nicely on the front face of the arm, so there's are no need for ridiculous spacers. And also the Assassin short ball stud straighten out the upper arms. But when you have the shocks on the front of the arm, the sway bar needs to run across the front of the diff (like with the swept arms) instead of the back-on the small carbon piece. But... the sway bar clashes with the diff, so I have now fitted a 36tooth diff pulley and all is well. Of course to flip the rear diff you need a shorter belt (183tooth) (I used an Xray 183tooth, yes sinful I know - I'll replace it with a dependable Corally next order). I've left the front diff/spool with the 42/21 pulleys, and the rear with the 36/18 pulleys, so even though they are all different, the ratio is the same, and I didn't need to change the front belt. I did it this way because I have some spares of the 41 and 21 pulleys - might as well keep using them.

I also tried fitting an xray 189tooth rear belt with the standard pulleys but it was slightly too short.

Also, if you do somehow run the rear diff forward with the large pulley forward, and run a sway bar forward of the diff, to get around the swaybar hitting the pulley you can also double up the swaybar mounts and then it clears - but only by a mm. I found the 36pulley was a better solution.

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Old 05-05-2010, 11:43 PM   #528
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Kewl post Vexxer. Very creative!

Suggest that you name the car "Frankenstein"...LOL

Bill
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:47 PM   #529
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I have just been fitting the straight arms here in NZ, and found a few things to consider...
You really want to move the rear diff to the forward position so the driveshafts are straight. And the shocks line up really nicely on the front face of the arm, so there's are no need for ridiculous spacers. And also the Assassin short ball stud straighten out the upper arms. But when you have the shocks on the front of the arm, the sway bar needs to run across the front of the diff (like with the swept arms) instead of the back-on the small carbon piece. But... the sway bar clashes with the diff, so I have now fitted a 36tooth diff pulley and all is well. Of course to flip the rear diff you need a shorter belt (183tooth) (I used an Xray 183tooth, yes sinful I know - I'll replace it with a dependable Corally next order). I've left the front diff/spool with the 42/21 pulleys, and the rear with the 36/18 pulleys, so even though they are all different, the ratio is the same, and I didn't need to change the front belt. I did it this way because I have some spares of the 41 and 21 pulleys - might as well keep using them.

I also tried fitting an xray 189tooth rear belt with the standard pulleys but it was slightly too short.

Also, if you do somehow run the rear diff forward with the large pulley forward, and run a sway bar forward of the diff, to get around the swaybar hitting the pulley you can also double up the swaybar mounts and then it clears - but only by a mm. I found the 36pulley was a better solution.

Cheers
Mick - arg noooo I mean Mike
Mike

Thanks for the info will save me a lot of time going through the same thing.

That explains why some of the latest setup sheets I have seen have been running the 36 pulleys.

Regards

Michael
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:02 PM   #530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr4-malta View Post
just saw this on the corally site - NEW! RDX PHI '09 CHASSIS 'SUPER NARROW'
http://www.corally.com/anubizz/coral...FSName=Corally

Anyone has anymore info about this or pics of it on the car?
Hi, already have the new chassis fitted. Looks very nice and also makes balancing the car with lipo very easy. I'll let u know how it goes compared to STD chassis on the weekend.
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:02 PM   #531
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I have a corally RDX Phi 09 for sale for 180 euros and 20 euros shipped to worldwide. If someone is interested please contact me on my email [email protected]
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:34 AM   #532
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Hi, already have the new chassis fitted. Looks very nice and also makes balancing the car with lipo very easy. I'll let u know how it goes compared to STD chassis on the weekend.
Awesome Simon!!, do let us feeble mortals know.

Obviously gone are the battery posts, any bolt in weights, and it looks like because of the thinner chassis, there are no machined slots for the wishbone mounts. - **And it only fits the straight arms.**

I'd be quite keen because I think the 2.4mm chassis is too still stiff for low grip situations.

Michael vdH
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Old 05-07-2010, 01:21 PM   #533
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Have been testing the new lipo chassi for about a month, a bit more. The prototype one.

Have tested on both High-grip carpet and low grip asphalt. Compared to the old wide std chassi the biggest difference is that in narrow corners and 180s the car is easier to take around the corner. Its rotate WAY much better. And the left-right balance on the track is pretty awesome. The biggest improvement is steering, alot more steering was added to the car with new chassis, mostly due to the cutouts in front. I will say for rubber tires this is the way to go guys!

Few pics for your interest. If you have questions, feel free to ask!

/Daniel Carlsson
Attached Thumbnails
Corally RDX Phi 09-dsc00718.jpg1.jpg   Corally RDX Phi 09-dsc00764.jpg-1.jpg   Corally RDX Phi 09-dsc00765.jpg-1.jpg   Corally RDX Phi 09-dsc00766.jpg-1.jpg   Corally RDX Phi 09-dsc00767.jpg-1.jpg  

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Old 05-07-2010, 02:01 PM   #534
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Also I noticed while putting the new chassis on, the rear wheelbase is 1-2 mm longer.
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Old 05-07-2010, 08:36 PM   #535
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Originally Posted by _RDX_ View Post
Have been testing the new lipo chassi for about a month, a bit more. The prototype one.

Have tested on both High-grip carpet and low grip asphalt. Compared to the old wide std chassi the biggest difference is that in narrow corners and 180s the car is easier to take around the corner. Its rotate WAY much better. And the left-right balance on the track is pretty awesome. The biggest improvement is steering, alot more steering was added to the car with new chassis, mostly due to the cutouts in front. I will say for rubber tires this is the way to go guys!

Few pics for your interest. If you have questions, feel free to ask!

/Daniel Carlsson
So, virtually every component on the chassis hangs out from each side? Seems pretty minimalist.

Would suggest that you shoe gu the steering servo down to it. Has saved me a lot of repair work with the regular chassis. Tosolini suggested it a couple years back.

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Old 05-07-2010, 08:41 PM   #536
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Also I noticed while putting the new chassis on, the rear wheelbase is 1-2 mm longer.
Patiently waiting for that report. Remember, you are a day ahead of us Simon...LOL

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Old 05-08-2010, 12:43 AM   #537
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Cheers for those pics RDX - Excellent!!
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Old 05-08-2010, 05:27 AM   #538
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I have not glued the servo down to the chassi if you mean that bill.. I always use the std corally servo posts. As it has always worked for me, no problem with broken chassi or servo. And yes the wheelbase is 1-2mm longer for easier fine tuning in length of wheelbase.
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Old 05-08-2010, 06:42 AM   #539
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New chassis looks very interesting, will have to take a closer look when the UK importer gets a few in.
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Old 05-09-2010, 07:49 AM   #540
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I have not glued the servo down to the chassi if you mean that bill.. I always use the std corally servo posts. As it has always worked for me, no problem with broken chassi or servo. And yes the wheelbase is 1-2mm longer for easier fine tuning in length of wheelbase.
That is exactly what I mean. And shoe goo is easily removable.

Not so much about breaking parts. But, I have had the posts shift and servo move after moderate shunts.

Bill
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