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Old 03-01-2010, 08:20 PM   #466
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when you only have one shock tower it flex to much causing problems plus they break really easy
Having never broken a shock tower on any of my RDX/Phi cars, I must wonder why the 09 version has any such issue???
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:17 AM   #467
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Having never broken a shock tower on any of my RDX/Phi cars, I must wonder why the 09 version has any such issue???
I'm new to this whole Corally thing but the shock tower doesn't feel any weaker or more flexible then my Xray did.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:02 AM   #468
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Another question. Are there any weights that fit the six cell chassis to balance and make weight other then the 25g weights? I use the 30g weights that fit under the battery on the lipo chassis but I was looking for something for the six cell chassis.
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Old 03-03-2010, 02:34 AM   #469
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Another question. Are there any weights that fit the six cell chassis to balance and make weight other then the 25g weights? I use the 30g weights that fit under the battery on the lipo chassis but I was looking for something for the six cell chassis.
I use the PPD Billet weights Link and modified to suit the car. The weight after getting to with a Dremel is 85gms. Refer attached

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Old 03-03-2010, 08:43 AM   #470
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I use the PPD Billet weights Link and modified to suit the car. The weight after getting to with a Dremel is 85gms. Refer attached

Regards

Michael
I did the kinda the opposite...I ground down the chassis to make the plate fit. You could go either way. Then I just went out and bought the lipo chassis.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:48 AM   #471
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Thanks guys, sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to the Corally line.

Is there a benefit to the rear body posts being mounted to the bearing holder plate as opposed to the rear shock tower?
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:57 AM   #472
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Thanks guys, sorry for all the questions, but I'm new to the Corally line.

Is there a benefit to the rear body posts being mounted to the bearing holder plate as opposed to the rear shock tower?
Not really. But what some have done when they do that is to mount front body post on the rear shock tower. They will point straight backwards. This can help prevent body tuck.

http://www.rc50.com/modules.php?name...lbum=63&pos=89
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Old 03-04-2010, 06:25 AM   #473
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There are several Corally's at our local track and I have not yet seen a broken shock tower or double shock towers.IS this a mod foam thing?( I mean that as going WAY faster that what we are going in 17.5/13.5 rubber classes).I thinkthe Corally's fit,finish and durability are top notch,once you put the alum front steering knuckles on.Love mine.
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:02 AM   #474
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There are several Corally's at our local track and I have not yet seen a broken shock tower or double shock towers.IS this a mod foam thing?( I mean that as going WAY faster that what we are going in 17.5/13.5 rubber classes).I thinkthe Corally's fit,finish and durability are top notch,once you put the alum front steering knuckles on.Love mine.
Well the double shock tower also has to do with the flex in the shock tower not just durability. As it has been explained to me, there is too much flex in the rear tower. Doubling up adds rigidity and makes the car more responsive. I am also running the 2.9mm chassis for rubber/carpet for similar reasons.
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Old 03-05-2010, 06:34 AM   #475
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Well the double shock tower also has to do with the flex in the shock tower not just durability. As it has been explained to me, there is too much flex in the rear tower. Doubling up adds rigidity and makes the car more responsive. I am also running the 2.9mm chassis for rubber/carpet for similar reasons.
Ok,that makes more sense than them breaking.I just got my new car a couple weeks ago,having ran the old car for a year or so, so I have alot to learn about the new one.

Is that the 2.9 lipo chassis?
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Old 03-05-2010, 07:39 AM   #476
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Is that the 2.9 lipo chassis?
Yep. I really like the weights in the chassis. I can balance my car perfectly with them. Although Brad Johnson says to try add the 25g weight behind the battery. He says it helps offset the weight of the motor. I still need to get one myself.

Brad if I am incorrect, feel free to correct me.
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Old 03-07-2010, 01:24 AM   #477
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Has anyone got a easy fix to stop the front bearings comming out of the holders?
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Old 03-07-2010, 04:03 AM   #478
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Has anyone got a easy fix to stop the front bearings comming out of the holders?
Yes use the alloy phi ones with the circlips
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Old 03-07-2010, 04:39 AM   #479
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Yes use the alloy phi ones with the circlips
i still use the standard nylon ones at the rear as they are molded with the lip to hold the bearings in.....but you definately need the front alloy ones..also its recommended to use the alloy steering blocks combined with the alloy c-hubs.....which are thinner and gives you that extra bit of travel (more steering epa)
oh and if you use a spool, try getting the specialized rc bones that use the steel blades......sold separately unfortunately
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:33 AM   #480
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Has anyone got a easy fix to stop the front bearings comming out of the holders?
You can also wedge the clips in the nylon holders.
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