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Old 07-30-2009, 12:40 AM   #166
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Yeah, I have tried 3 hole 50/40 with 19/17 lb front and rear like on the old car and didn’t like it on the new car so I am hoping the 2 hole is better.

I have tried the camber links in the lower inner hole like the old car and it was better than in the upper holes like the book shows, the car was also a little bit better with 2mm of spacers under the rear hub ball.

I am hoping to get in a solid day worth of testing tomorrow where I can try as much as possible, also going to try widening the car in the front first up and then in both the front and rear. Will definitely let you know how I go,
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:02 AM   #167
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Hey, James.

When you added the 2mm shims to the outer ball stud, was that in addition to lowering to the bottom inner hole on the tower? Or did you do that without moving the inboard ball? Did you angle the link front and rear? Or just rear?

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Old 07-30-2009, 05:38 PM   #168
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Front I just lowered the inner point to the lowest inner hole

On the rear we lowered it to the inner lower hole and added the 2mm shim to the outer hub side.

We also tried the thin shim under the arm mounts in the rear only but I did not notice much of a difference with this particular change.

A few people are now widening the front out with either arms or old hubs, the other thing which I want to try is taking the sweep out of the front arms.
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Old 07-31-2009, 06:38 AM   #169
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Ran the car again today,

Surface is a large gas asphalt track – Med grip and with some off camber corners and elevation changes

Found the car responded well to the changes below and was very good at the end of practicing

Now running the car as per below

Tamiya Shocks – No foam rebound spacer inside
Springs – 17lb Front & 14lb Rear
Oil – 50w FRT, 40w REAR
Shock positions
Front – Top middle hole, Lower outer hole
Rear – Top second hole from inside, Lower middle hole

Sway Bars – Front Copper, Rear Silver
Wheelbase – kit shimming front and rear
Camber links – innermost lower hole front and rear – 2mm spacer under ball on rear hubs
Also optional thin spacers under the rear wishbone mounting blocks
Ride height – FR=5.5, R=6
Droop – FR 4mm, R 3.5mm – using droop blocks
Body – Protoform Speed 6

I tried oringing the top deck but did not like it as it made the car feel to flexy and at times too lazy and unresponsive. I also tried a 19 & 14 lb spring combo but it was causing understeer and push.
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:31 AM   #170
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Thanks, James.

Pretty much what I have set up for a trophy race this weekend. I will try reducing the droop a bit and use kit shocks with SPECIALIZED medium bladders as well as removing the o-rings. I was thinking of going up in size of the sway bar in the rear but I will try your setup to see how it goes.

Tx.
Phil
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Old 07-31-2009, 09:35 AM   #171
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Good luck at the trophy meet Phil,

Have you tried any of the new generation stock spec speedies yet ? I have run the KO V1.5 and the Tekin RS and massive difference in power on spec motors.
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Old 08-01-2009, 11:20 AM   #172
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Yo, those are some sexy new shock spacers! Where can I get me a set?

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Old 08-03-2009, 01:43 PM   #173
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I have some questions. Is the car, as Corally sells it, so bad that you have to redesign it to make it good? And if it is, and your a team driver, doesn't Corally get any feedback from you? I just got a PHI09, but from what I'm reading, maybe I should have gone with something else? Do you have to change to other brand shocks, move the shocks behind the rear arms, and use rear arms in the front to make the car competetive? Why would you stay on the Corally team if you have to change everything?
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:08 PM   #174
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well kent was it money well spent???? LOL
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:13 PM   #175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outofcash View Post
I have some questions. Is the car, as Corally sells it, so bad that you have to redesign it to make it good? And if it is, and your a team driver, doesn't Corally get any feedback from you? I just got a PHI09, but from what I'm reading, maybe I should have gone with something else? Do you have to change to other brand shocks, move the shocks behind the rear arms, and use rear arms in the front to make the car competetive? Why would you stay on the Corally team if you have to change everything?
Most USA team drivers most likely won't switch there cars around like this. Shocks are great in the kit and to make them better try this http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/shocks.htm I've been running my car for two weeks now with pretty much box parts and car is money.
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:13 PM   #176
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The shock modification says if your using the lowered shock tower on carpet do this but what if your using the lowered shock towers on asphalt. I have a third hand regular RDX that I just rebuilt and realize this is the mod that needs to be done to them so they are not as long anymore.
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:20 PM   #177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Outofcash View Post
I have some questions. Is the car, as Corally sells it, so bad that you have to redesign it to make it good? And if it is, and your a team driver, doesn't Corally get any feedback from you? I just got a PHI09, but from what I'm reading, maybe I should have gone with something else? Do you have to change to other brand shocks, move the shocks behind the rear arms, and use rear arms in the front to make the car competetive? Why would you stay on the Corally team if you have to change everything?
It´s the team drivers job to test different things, bad or good ones. If they´re good changes they will come into production at some point. Corally are working on some new arms that most likely will be more like Tamiya.
I´ve tested the car both std and with different mods and I can say that from the box the car is very competitive. At some tracks the mods are better, at others std is better. See it as a tuning tool.
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:30 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilligan View Post
Thanks, James.

Pretty much what I have set up for a trophy race this weekend. I will try reducing the droop a bit and use kit shocks with SPECIALIZED medium bladders as well as removing the o-rings. I was thinking of going up in size of the sway bar in the rear but I will try your setup to see how it goes.

Tx.
Phil

How did you end up at the above meeting Phil ?
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Old 08-05-2009, 04:39 AM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny L View Post
Most USA team drivers most likely won't switch there cars around like this. Shocks are great in the kit and to make them better try this http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/shocks.htm I've been running my car for two weeks now with pretty much box parts and car is money.
Hi Kenny im finding it very difficult to build the standard shocks to my liking with out any traces of air bubbles and getting them to work extra smooth something i haven't managed yet. Would replacing one of the orings with the black losi washer do the trick ? When filling up the shock do u fill it to the brim then place the bladder or do u leave a gap?

Some pointers would really help.

Gustav
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Old 08-05-2009, 04:47 AM   #180
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Are there any plans of having the Corally USA site updated with setups, tips etc... would be great
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