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Old 07-27-2009, 08:36 PM   #151
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is their anything about the car that you guys dont like? i dont have my car yet and i just want to know what im in for lol
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Old 07-28-2009, 02:44 AM   #152
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is their anything about the car that you guys dont like? i dont have my car yet and i just want to know what im in for lol
I personally the thought the car had a lack of steering and roll with the out of the box setup. But with a different topdeck, battery in the rear (5 cell NIMH) and other front wishbones (longer) the car feels good. A lot more steering and roll in the car.
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Old 07-28-2009, 03:33 AM   #153
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I personally the thought the car had a lack of steering and roll with the out of the box setup. But with a different topdeck, battery in the rear (5 cell NIMH) and other front wishbones (longer) the car feels good. A lot more steering and roll in the car.

What different top deck and what longer front wishbones ?

Are you talking about the new PHI 09
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Old 07-28-2009, 04:59 AM   #154
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What different top deck and what longer front wishbones ?

Are you talking about the new PHI 09
I cut a piece out of the rear of the topdeck (the place where the Phi logo was) and I've put rear wishbones in the front. These are longer and give the car more roll.

- Edit, I'll ask Eoghain to post a picture for you guys on RedRc next weekend during the euros. -

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Old 07-28-2009, 05:25 AM   #155
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That would be great, are you able to post your current set up and are you running on asphalt ?

I found the kit set up on the track we run on here to be very reactive on change of direction, too reactive for my liking yet on slow tight corners it was pushing.

I am going to try a few more things on the weekend to see if I can overcome this.
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Old 07-28-2009, 05:55 AM   #156
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That would be great, are you able to post your current set up and are you running on asphalt ?

I found the kit set up on the track we run on here to be very reactive on change of direction, too reactive for my liking yet on slow tight corners it was pushing.

I am going to try a few more things on the weekend to see if I can overcome this.
I'm currently to busy with preparations for the euros. I'll post my setup monday morning after I get back from Luxembourg.
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Old 07-28-2009, 06:46 AM   #157
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Thanks Rick, so whats involved from a parts and modifying perspective in putting the rear wishbones on the front.

Does it involve dremelling the arms ?
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Old 07-28-2009, 10:31 AM   #158
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Thanks Rick, so whats involved from a parts and modifying perspective in putting the rear wishbones on the front.

Does it involve dremelling the arms ?
Yes, you have to dremel the arms in order to get the front caster blocks to fit. The car will be wider in front with the rear arms.
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Old 07-28-2009, 10:42 AM   #159
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Yes, you have to dremel the arms in order to get the front caster blocks to fit. The car will be wider in front with the rear arms.
True, and you should change the suspensionmounts to the 0.5 and 1.0 (swapped inward), otherwise the car will be to wide in the front.

Won't be hear again untill after the euro's. I'll try to get a pic of the car online asap.
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:11 AM   #160
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I'm currently to busy with preparations for the euros. I'll post my setup monday morning after I get back from Luxembourg.
You bastard! Living just a few hours away from Luxembourg! I'm green with envy.
Good luck and come back with pictures for the less fortunate.
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:31 PM   #161
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Hey, Guys.

Had my car out for the first run on the weekend in 17.5 class. TQ and win with a few adjustments. Personally, I find the car rolls far more than the previous version. For changes I used rubber o-rings on the top deck screws, removed the centre brace, removed the centre screw on the bulkhead, shocks in the middle hole on the rear, 14.5 lb springs in the rear with 30 wt, 17 up front with 40 wt 1.9mm swaybar up front, 1.3 in the rear, and a spool up front. Droop up front was 2mm over ride height and 1mm over ride height in the rear.

For next week on a larger track, I aim to lower the roll centres front and rear and stiffen the oil a bit. Should do the trick.

The car is much easier to work on for sure and the easily accessible hinge pin couplers make switching toe a breeze.

Happy racing.
Phil
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:36 PM   #162
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hello guys......

here is another great thing for the corally Phi racers.....

a CNC machined body post nut tool (works with any car with Corally body post nuts).......

if anyone get interest in this tool or the spool I posted few days ago please PM me or send mail to [email protected]
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Corally RDX Phi 09-img0015.jpg  
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Old 07-29-2009, 01:37 PM   #163
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hello guys......

here is another great thing for the corally Phi racers.....

a CNC machined body pot nut tool.......
we need to talk..
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Old 07-29-2009, 08:37 PM   #164
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Hey, Guys.

Had my car out for the first run on the weekend in 17.5 class. TQ and win with a few adjustments. Personally, I find the car rolls far more than the previous version. For changes I used rubber o-rings on the top deck screws, removed the centre brace, removed the centre screw on the bulkhead, shocks in the middle hole on the rear, 14.5 lb springs in the rear with 30 wt, 17 up front with 40 wt 1.9mm swaybar up front, 1.3 in the rear, and a spool up front. Droop up front was 2mm over ride height and 1mm over ride height in the rear.

For next week on a larger track, I aim to lower the roll centres front and rear and stiffen the oil a bit. Should do the trick.

The car is much easier to work on for sure and the easily accessible hinge pin couplers make switching toe a breeze.

Happy racing.
Phil
Hi Phil,


I have experienced exactly the same thing with over rolling which is really noticeable on the big track when changing direction quickly.

What piston are you running, 2 hole or 3 hole ? I am about to try similar to what you have posted above on the weekend
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Old 07-29-2009, 11:24 PM   #165
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Hi, James.

I am currently using 2-hole but have a spare set ready to go with 3-hole and 40/50 wt.

I am not quite sure yet about the roll centre front or rear. I will first try the shorter link in the upper hole on the shock tower for both f/r. If that doesn't do the trick (amount of roll), then I will try the normal link but in the lower hole to see if it's the roll centre itself that can be effectively changed. Not a difficult problem - just noticeably different. Quite honestly, I think I could likely just deal with lower dual rate but my guess is that the car would be stuck to the track and not so easy to toss in the corner in a pinch. I may also just stand the shocks up a bit in practice to see how it responds to the larger track.

Let us know how you make out with your changes, too.

Cheers,
Phil
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