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Old 05-13-2009, 07:29 PM   #16
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Thanks so much for the info..

So the rear diff i should not do the sandpaper mod??? And just use the regular diff?


The biggest problem i am having is that the brushless/lipo setup is just so damn powerful.
Maybe you should try a 2 cell LiPo. More fun time less fixing time.
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Old 05-13-2009, 07:33 PM   #17
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Maybe you should try a 2 cell LiPo. More fun time less fixing time.



use the regular diff without a doubt.


also, your car is a team , not FT tc4. Sorry.
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Old 05-13-2009, 07:50 PM   #18
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So far the front solid spool has been fine. the outdrive part of the spool is fine and the heavy duty CVD's have not yet failed.

But to save my drive train, i might do the DIY-Slipper up front.

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Maybe you should try a 2 cell LiPo. More fun time less fixing time.
But 60-70mph is fun!!! hahaha I actually dont mind repairing it, it keeps it interesting. If not id probably get tired of it quickly!!!!

I might get a 2s for when running on carpet tracks... The 3s can be to much at times.

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use the regular diff without a doubt.


also, your car is a team , not FT tc4. Sorry.
Ok, so NO DIY-Slipper for the rear. Just get the shims and mesh corrected.


The car is mostly a parking lot speed runner. But i do occasionally like taking it to the carpet track.

I thought about just having a normal steel outdrive diff then having the solid one as well.

Solid for parking lot bashing
Regular for track/better handling.
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:32 PM   #19
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again, a solid axle is a lot harder on the gears than anything else... because

when you pull the trigger hard from a dead star there is no slip

when you corner the wheels are forced to spin at he same speed

when you hit anything the gears take all the energy

putting a solid axle in a vehicle ( other than a dragster) is very un-mechanical.

for handling reasons we put it on the front but then that part of the drivetrain is under serious stress when you steer.

the slipper spool front and diff rear is definitely your best choice.

I tried both sandpaper and cardboard and cardboard worked much better for me... no glue at all, just 2 thin card board rings instead of the balls. The paper stays in place because it deforms to the shape of the ball holes in the gear, and the diff metal rings slip on the paper. Check for slippage by blocking one outdrive plus the diff gear and try to spin the other outdrive with a metal bar inserted in it.

before anything measure you diff's ( before taking it apart to make it a slippy spool) width with precision calipers (digital) to be sure you put the correct thickness of paper. You'll ahve to try several time but its definitely worth it.

have fun !
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Old 05-13-2009, 08:58 PM   #20
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as far as front slipper...

What I did when I wanted to run a slipper/spool, I just tightened the allen inside the out drive as much as I could with out stripping it. My front wheels were locked and I got a lot of under steer. But I could turn the wheels in opposite direction with my hand with a good amount of force.

Anything wrong with this method? It seemed to work and all I had to do was removed a ball cup and tighten an allen.

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Old 05-13-2009, 09:43 PM   #21
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Now, do you think putting thread lock on the bolt is a bad idea???

I had problems before where the diff would come loss..
The thread lock pretty much solved that problem.

Just wondering if people think thats fine?
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:06 AM   #22
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double post

Last edited by heretic; 05-14-2009 at 05:25 AM.
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:25 AM   #23
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as far as front slipper...

What I did when I wanted to run a slipper/spool, I just tightened the allen inside the out drive as much as I could with out stripping it. My front wheels were locked and I got a lot of under steer. But I could turn the wheels in opposite direction with my hand with a good amount of force.

Anything wrong with this method? It seemed to work and all I had to do was removed a ball cup and tighten an allen.

--pakk

I did this too for a while but 1) its really hard on the screw, the white plastic T-nut, the spring, etc.... the balls and the rings so i wouldn't do that anymore. I f you do that put a 1mm shim below the spring so that you don't rip off the T-nut's "arms" when overtightening.
2) even if its very tight , you basically still have a very tight diff, not a spool...yes it is different.

thread lock should be okay but there is a risk that some of it ends up in the diff. but plastic thread lock only

What I do , (I'm almost ashamed to write it) is using a pair cutting pliers to deteriorate (!) the thread of the screw (just a litte!)-. Never had a single problem with this method... i do it on all my cars.
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Old 05-15-2009, 06:01 AM   #24
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For the TC4 you have to make them. Take the diff balls out, and glue some sandpaper to the diff rings, and put it back together (thrust bearing is normal), and tighten down the diff bolt. What this does is give enough friction for a solid axle on power, but it will give when you hit a board so it helps save drivetrain parts.


Just make sure to shim the diff right and those gears will last a long time
What grit sand paper would you recommand, would it make any different between low grit and high grit sand paper?
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:20 PM   #25
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I'm building a slipper spool for my TC5R by taking a reguler diff and taking out the balls and cutting rubber D-rings out of bicycle inner tube and glueing them to the metal D-rings. Then apply some light oil to the other side of the rubber ring. Its going to slip smooth over the ball bearing holes.

Everything is going to be there besides ball bearings and glueing rubber D-rings to the metal D-rings. Ill use tamiya ceramic oil for some light duty slipage
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Old 05-18-2009, 03:09 PM   #26
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AGH!!!

I got to tempted and installed the Solid Spool in the rear and ran the car... I haven't opened the diff yet but something gave out again... Oh well, i needed to for fill my RC addiction that i missed all weekend.

I purchased a few extra gears for the diff in case this happened anyway. haha LHS didnt have shim's so i had to special order them. They get here tomorrow.

I will rebuild and shim properly..



On another note, the 72/20 gearing is getting the motor to around 200F which isn't good. I need to put Thermal compound under my heat sink and maybe get a fan for it. I didn't like the way the car ran with the 78/20 ran but the temps did stay down. I might try 76/20 next.
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:27 AM   #27
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AGH!!!

I got to tempted and installed the Solid Spool in the rear and ran the car... I haven't opened the diff yet but something gave out again... Oh well, i needed to for fill my RC addiction that i missed all weekend.

I purchased a few extra gears for the diff in case this happened anyway. haha LHS didnt have shim's so i had to special order them. They get here tomorrow.

I will rebuild and shim properly..



On another note, the 72/20 gearing is getting the motor to around 200F which isn't good. I need to put Thermal compound under my heat sink and maybe get a fan for it. I didn't like the way the car ran with the 78/20 ran but the temps did stay down. I might try 76/20 next.

any spur bigger than 75 teeth will go lower than the chassis so you will ruin it on the ground.

200 F is definitely too much

just try a 72T spur and 19T pinion.

spool at the rear is ..., well , you know ...
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Old 05-20-2009, 12:56 PM   #28
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any spur bigger than 75 teeth will go lower than the chassis so you will ruin it on the ground.

200 F is definitely too much

just try a 72T spur and 19T pinion.

spool at the rear is ..., well , you know ...
I picked up an 18T and 19T Pinion, i'll try them out once i rebuild the rear diff.
It seems that it got close to 200F after the diff blew.. Maybe because it was revving to fast? IDK..
I am going to get some Thermal paste for the Motor Heatsink, that should help out some.

So after i rebuild the diff, i should open it back up and re-tighten it a few times?
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:57 PM   #29
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Default i got a tc4, can you please tell me where can I buy the diferential with metal gear.

i got a tc4, can you please tell me where can I buy the diferential with metal gear. thank
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Old 09-26-2011, 06:59 PM   #30
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Metal gears will also strip if not shimmed properly, and no front lcd(#losa3344) drives ! I run mine with 4S packs , and no issues !
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