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Old 12-18-2003, 07:14 PM   #1
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Default Motor Caps & Glitching Troubles....>>>

Wow, I have been hunting and hunting a glitching problem in my TC3 that seemed to crop up suddenly. I tried everything except changing the ESC (Novak GT-7). I changed steering servos, Power Cap, new noise caps, rewired the whole car, checked and re-soldered ALL the connections both outside and inside the esc, protected wires that touched the chassis, repositioned the rx in every possible orientation and location and I even changed antenna wires on the rx. NO CHANGE! Still glitched like an animal. I mean this was not just a little hit, this thing was glitching like my neighbor had my channel!

When this happened to me on Sat night I borrowed a MX-3 on 27meg and the car seemed to clear up and fly right. Boy was this misleading! As soon as I put my 75meg stuff back in, it started all over again. I tried 3 different RXs all with the same result.

As a desperate last effort, I removed the three 0.1F (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors I placed on all my motors per the Novak GT-7 instructions and guess what???

NO MORE GLITCHING!!!!

Why would taking those three 0.1F (50V) non-polarized, ceramic caps OFF the motor clear up the glitching troubles? I am truly confused at this, but the car runs PERFECT now. I also checked another motor WITH the three 0.1F (50V) non-polarized, ceramic caps and it was a glitch-fest. As soon as I removed them, the car acted perfectly as it should.

Any of you experienced electric guys have any ideas on this? Will it end up hurting my ESC NOT having the three 0.1F (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors in place?

Thanks in advance and sorry for the lengthy explanation.
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Old 12-18-2003, 11:19 PM   #2
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If the little wires on the capacitors are touching each other or parts of the motor, even if they are close to touching, it can cause glitches. I had the same problem before and the wire that went to the phillips screw was touching or real close to the lead that went to the endbell heatsink.
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Old 12-18-2003, 11:34 PM   #3
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lol,i think we should have one of these 'weird but true threads' congratulations on overcoming a bit#h of a problem..
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Old 12-19-2003, 04:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
If the little wires on the capacitors are touching each other or parts of the motor, even if they are close to touching, it can cause glitches. I had the same problem before and the wire that went to the phillips screw was touching or real close to the lead that went to the endbell heatsink.
None of the leads were touching, I try to keep the placement of those caps very neat and clean. Here is a photo of my Reedy 11 double with the caps installed. I don't know if this photo will actually depict a problem, but this is how the caps on all my motors are done.


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lol,i think we should have one of these 'weird but true threads' congratulations on overcoming a bit#h of a problem..
LMAO! I agree. I am starting to wonder if these caps I bought are not the actual value they were claimed to be. I bought a bulk lot of 100 caps.
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Old 12-19-2003, 04:12 AM   #5
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dude,thats bad connection.
2 of them should be in series.
the other should be parallel to the earlier 2.U got this part right.
i see that the single cap u have can easily touch the earth of the 2.
shorten all the electrodes to avoid shorts.
u might also want to have a look at SMT capacitors which are tinier and WAY neater.
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Old 12-19-2003, 04:59 AM   #6
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dude,thats bad connection. 2 of them should be in series.
the other should be parallel to the earlier 2.U got this part right.
i see that the single cap u have can easily touch the earth of the 2.
shorten all the electrodes to avoid shorts.
u might also want to have a look at SMT capacitors which are tinier and WAY neater.
Now I am really confused. These are attached exactly as per NOVAK installation instructions. My install looks a litle different because I need certain placement of the caps to avoid damage and chassis contact in the car, but it is wired exactly as the NOVAK diagram.
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Old 12-19-2003, 05:17 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroJohnnyD

As far as I can see the picture, I'm sure your wiring is correct by principle. But I would definately isolate those long legs with some kind of tube.

By the way, dont the motor comes with built-in SMD capasituors? Meaning that you dont need the externals?
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Old 12-19-2003, 05:34 AM   #8
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As far as I can see the picture, I'm sure your wiring is correct by principle. But I would definately isolate those long legs with some kind of tube. By the way, dont the motor comes with built-in SMD capasituors? Meaning that you dont need the externals?
This motor did, originally. I have since changed the endbell and hoods from stand-up to laydown brushes because the oem hoods were damaged. Thus the need for the externals.

And let me ask this, I understand the concept of the legs being too long, but on the bench if the legs aren't touching will that still cause a glitch? Just the legs being long?

Thanks a million for everyones input!
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Old 12-19-2003, 05:44 AM   #9
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check the edited pic.the red ring'ed parts are not supposed to touch
as for them glitching on the bench , it's another story for the 'weird but true' threads...
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Old 12-19-2003, 06:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroJohnnyD
And let me ask this, I understand the concept of the legs being too long, but on the bench if the legs aren't touching will that still cause a glitch? Just the legs being long? [/B]
Long legs in themselves sholdnt harm, I wold just isolate to make sure, there's no short cuts in the areas lee82gx pointed out. Just to be sure. And I'm almost willing to bet, it'll work !
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Old 12-19-2003, 06:47 AM   #11
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The wonderful world of motor capacitors. The single cap that goes from the positive side of the brush hood to the negative side of the brush hood does indeed need to be completly isolated from the other two caps. These three caps touching each other will indeed cause serious glitching issues. Also a bad capacitor can cause some serious glitching issues and can also cause your motor to heat up more since your brushes are now arching more. Remember the purpose of the caps is to filter out the noise from the caps arching.

Later,
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Old 12-19-2003, 06:57 AM   #12
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Actually, I used to wire all my capacitors that way, with shorter leads, but the same way, Never had that kinda problem with glitching. Could be my shorter leads ? Bad Caps ? Maybe an expert can point something else out though, but going from stand up hoods to laydown hood on a mod motor with standard comm size ? Is that gonna be a problem ? Just curious
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Old 12-19-2003, 07:18 AM   #13
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Actually if you refer to the picture I attatched, you will see that if the wires are touching where I circled them then you are shorting the caps and that will cause some SERIOUS glitching. Even if they aren't touching when you look at them in the pit they can shake or vibrate and touch on the track.

Last edited by BigDogRacing; 06-19-2007 at 12:26 AM.
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Old 12-19-2003, 08:47 AM   #14
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Actually if you refer to the picture I attatched, you will see that if the wires are touching where I circled them then you are shorting the caps and that will cause some SERIOUS glitching. Even if they aren't touching when you look at them in the pit they can shake or vibrate and touch on the track.
Actually due to the perspective the photo was taken, those are not actually touching. The very back cap that goes across the + & - is almost against the endbell, the other two caps that go from the positive and negative lug to ground are 1/4" - 3/8" away from the other cap legs. In fact the ground lug that those caps are soldered to is an old eyelet from a set of brushes that is bent horizontal and the caps are soldered at the very end.
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Old 12-19-2003, 11:15 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroJohnnyD
Actually due to the perspective the photo was taken, those are not actually touching. The very back cap that goes across the + & - is almost against the endbell, the other two caps that go from the positive and negative lug to ground are 1/4" - 3/8" away from the other cap legs. In fact the ground lug that those caps are soldered to is an old eyelet from a set of brushes that is bent horizontal and the caps are soldered at the very end.
NitroJohnnyD,
You say that your problem is solved when the caps are removed, maybe the caps are bad. Try a different manufacuter's caps. Glitching can also occur from improper motor maintenance. Try cutting the comm and replacing the brushes for new ones.
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