durga dude

Anyone else having problems with the durability of the diff side urathane bushings in the front drive train? On my models these pieces have worn thin, alowing the drive shafts locate too far in. This has resulted in the drive shaft getting jammed on the axle side at full lock.
Upgrading to cvds should hopefully fix this.

Skitee

You can try to use a silicon o-ring instead of the urathane bushing.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

CVDs will help, but even with CVDs, you'll want a nice snug fit (not too tight that the dogbone-side jams during suspension travel).

The BEST material I've found to use on all my vehicles, regardless of Tamiya or not, is a piece of Nitro Fuel Tubing. Just cut it to whatever length it recommends in the manual.

I use Nitro Fuel Tubing on all kinds of things, there's like 101 uses for it.

I also use it to cut little rings out, and place them over ball studs for the suspension links and the shock mounts, to take out any rattling and slop... The little rings fits snug underneath the ball-cups and the shock caps when they're both snapped into place. Just place the ring, snap in the ball-cups and voila!

Fuel Tubing is awesome, I recommend everyone to get a foot or two. A foot-long fuel tubing has lasted me sooooooooo long... I used them on four or five vehicles and I still have about half of it left...

sham55

hello hy did any of u guys have upgrades your ta05 ver2 on n hop up things pls do pm me cause i need to knoe the parts serial number thanks ...

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Oi Sham, i am for one in the same location as you are and you have always seen my ver2 almost everytime you come to the track so why ask so far??
You had your ver2 for quite sometimes now and you told me that you been surfing for it, failed i suppose or busy with facebook? :P
Ofcourse most of the guys here have upgrade their ver2 since its been released and mine is already 80% hopup. Lemme give you some pointers so it will be of help.

1)read this ver2 thread from page 1. (it helps alot)
2)I'm sure you still have your ver2 box. Look at the diagram that have the ver2 with option parts, if you put your reading glass on im sure you will see that there are patented numbers of the available option parts of Tamiya's if you plan to turn it to a TRF class chassis to compete in the TAC (only tamiya parts race). Unless ofcourse you wanna hop it up with a mixture of (rojak) like yeah racing, 3Racing, etc. Our local hobby store still lacks the complete Tamiya hopup items for ver2 unless you wanna turn it into a 3racing TA05 V.2
3)Please read this whole thread throughly and im sure you will find what you need or else give me a call. You have my number Cheers!

PJBatman

What pion and speer gear should I put on my ta-05 with a 17.5. Thanks if you can help

sham55

thanks akudou why im trying to find from others is that mayb thay have different setting or parts of the optional part of the ta05 ver2 at the same time the setting is also different i guess thats why im posting here, thanks again for the tipss that u gave appriciate it alot ...

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Settings all depends on size of track and whether you are using it for drifting application or touring. Once a setting is perfect, its all up to our lil fore fingers to control it. Most ver2 users here uses it for stock TC and i have found a few drifters in this thread. Like once again, settings depends on your application.

Pingers

iTrader: (8)

What FDR are you trying to obtain? Carpet or Asphalt? What motor, esc?

Your PINION & SPUR gears will be based on several factors and what works well for YOU and your driving abilities. If you're a novice in a 17.5 class, top end speed is not a priority for you, you'll probably want fast accleration after you crash. An FDR >4.0 is probably for you.

If you're an experienced driver in a 17.5 class shoot for an FDR @ or below 4.0 for top end speed. How you obtain that FDR is up to you.

if you have no idea what FDR means, please google it.

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

I just swapped my 17.5 into my TA05 and kept the gearing with the stock gearing. The FDR is 7-something (I forget). The 4600Kv was too much for my Ta05 with my crappy driving skill, and the 17.5 in my SC10 made the SC10 such a slug...

It was a mutual power-exchange program...

Plus, I'm gearing up to race in my 17.5 class locally. They could use more racers, and I can use more practice... ALOT more practice...

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

Which sway bar combo do you guys recommend for the front and rear for asphalt setup?

Red (F) and Red (R)?

Red (F) and Yellow(R)?

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Dont know about the rest of the guys here but it depends on size of the tracks that i suit my bars with. If it was a huge track with long sweeper, then i go with (F) Yellow (R) Blue and if the track has tight small corners then i go (F)Red (R)Yellow or i would go for Yellow all around.

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Had my Ver2 installed with F & R bulkheads from Tamiya. Does anyone who had this things installed had to set their chamber/toe once again?

Akudou

iTrader: (2)

Is that a ver2 or an ifs?

tom_chang79

iTrader: (13)

That looks like an IFS if you look at the rear chassis brace and the motor mount, but I could be wrong...