pityu911

Hi all,

I have the same problem. Almost from the begining I have skipping problem. I have tried everything, replace belts, pulleys. The final conclusion is that, there is a little abrasion in the aluminium motor mount so the bearing can move a little in it. When I'm breaking hard, the belt pull the center shaft and the outer center-pulley can move forward a little.
The problem is that I can't find the motor mount as a part in any store...

Can anyone help me?

Pityu

niznai

Hi, and welcome.


Make sure there are no other problems with the way you put the car together (e.g. the belt tensioners are at the same notch at each diff so the diffs sit square). All being OK, take it to the next step.

But I don't think buying a new mount is going to solve your problem. They should all be the same within tolerance unless you're really unlucky (which is possible with the sloppy Tamiya QC of late) and have a bad one. If you really believe there is something wrong with your motor mount you might want to take it back to the shop and demonstrate for them to see what they say. Most likely they'll help you out.

If that doesn't work and you don't get a satisfactory answer, you might be on your own.

You need then to shim the slop out. Ask someone at the track to help you. It may not be necessary to buy a set of shims for this job alone, but it won't go amiss if you do.

Hatebreed

i have been experiencing the same problem with my ifs r (same pulleys and belts as the ver2)

the solution is to tighten the front belt up as much as possible, it should be as a guitarr string. the rear belt can be a little more loose without skipping (std setting is fine on tensioner)

in the front i start with 1 step tighter than the manual suggest, and if you run a hot motor you have to tighten it up one more step after 5-10 runs

with these settings i can run a 4.5t motor and 2s lipo without the belts skipping, and the drivetrain is still free

Skitee

Yip that is correct, I converted my IFS-R into a Ver.II and the belts are set 2 notches tighter than they were on the IFS-R and I may still need to go one notch tighter on the front belt.

niznai

I have the 05MS in its limited edition RSR guise and it has the same center pulley arrangement and I have never had any problems with the belts skipping. After reading about it here, I checked my layshaft and it has no play. Perhaps it is worth after all investing in blue?

I am not really convinced it is a good idea the belts should be tight as explained above. If the layshaft has a problem indeed, tightening the belts can only make it worse by pulling the layshaft to that side. Who knows what happens down the line then?

Skitee

I had my belts set really loose on the IFS-R without skipping so there was plenty of room for adjustment when I converted to the Ver.II. My belts aren't as tight as Hatebreed describes so there's no extra pressure being exerted on the layshaft from the front or rear.

noelcleofe17

Where is this Eccentric diff holders? can you show pics? cause Im a newbie.

Minami

iTrader: (5)

the bearing holders in your bulkheads, is the eccentric diff holders i.e. belt tensioner

niznai

Part A2 Check your manual, page 21, sprue A, part2 (there's two of them there). Used in building step 4, page 5 (rear gearbox) and step 5, page 6 (front gearbox).

noelcleofe17

Thanks I think I figured it out, I saw how it will adjust the belt tension. Thanks!

Hatebreed

might add that this was with brand new belts and pulleys i tried this.

where can i find ver2 spares? looking to rebuild my car but havent seen any shops that stock ver2 spares yet

also what do i need? what i can see its:

chassi
steering
motormount
shaft and spur gear holder
seperate arm mounts f/r

anything more?

toomany

iTrader: (10)

i am looking at maybe getting a ta-05 is on kit better than the other like mini cooper's and mo3r kits and if they are all are pretty much the same what is the best deal on one kit wise thanks for any help

dragracer72nova

iTrader: (114)

How are you guy's liking the Version Two? I am thinking about one for next season's TCS races. I know I would get a front one way and a set of TRF shocks for it.
Dave

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

I for one am LOVING it, it is one SMOOTH operator. Been racing it in a 17.5 rubber class with guys running TC5's, XRays, Losis & the occaisional Schumacher(even with the upgrades I added, it's about the most affordable car of the bunch), & I'm not compromisiing ANYTHING, turning laps as strong as anyone in the class. And even better, it's easy to run those laps consistently(& I am running mine with the TRF shocks & a front one-way, as well as some of the usual hop ups like universals, sway bars, clamping wheel hexes, etc.). It really reminds me a lot of how my 416WE runs, plenty of grip & drives easy. i think it's gonna be a real weapon when my next TCS event comes along.....

Skitee

This is what you'll need to do a conversion from an IFS-R to a Ver.II

1 x 54095 - TB-03 Racing Steering Set
2 x 53851 - Titanium Coated 46mm Suspension Shaft
1 x 51253 - TB Evolution 5 "B" Parts
1 x 10115525 - TA-05 Ver.II "K" Parts
1 x 10115527 - TA-05 Ver.II "M" Parts
1 x 19115256 - TA-05 Ver.II Chassis
1 x 15405048 - TA-05 Ver.II Motor Mount
1 x 13454456 - TA-05 Ver.II Center Shaft
1 x 13454445 - TA-05 Ver.II Spur Gear Holder
1 x 54174 - TA-05 Ver.II SeperateSuspension Mounts (1C/1XC)
1 x 54172 - TA-05 Ver.II SeperateSuspension Mounts (1A/1XA)

If you want to complete the Ver.II conversion fully from a standard IFS then you'll need these parts too. It may actually be more cost effective to buy the Ver.II kit.

1 x 51092 - 46mm Swing Shaft
1 x 53742 - 46mm Swing Shaft - Lightweight
2 x 54076 - TB-03 Wheel Axles
2 x 53988 - TRF501X Ball Differential Pulley
2 x 51287 - Large Ball Diff Plate
1 x 53989 - TRF501X Center Pulley
2 x 54170 - TA-05 Ver.II Low Friction Drive Blet
2 x 53928 - Short Reversible Suspension Arm
1 x 54031 - TA05-IFS Carbon Reinforced F Parts - H Carrier (4deg)
1 x 51332 - TRF416 Front Upright
1 x 51333 - TRF416 Rear Upright
8 x 1050 bearings