130LikesTA-05 ver.2
08-01-2009, 08:06 AM
#106
I am running on 13.5T brush motor now, thinking for upgrade to 10.5T or 8.5T brushless motor. Which pinions teeth should i use? Thks!
08-01-2009, 08:59 AM
#107
You need to let us know more...
What ESC are you running?
What Surface ?
How long is the track and is it very technical or open and flowing?
What ESC are you running?
What Surface ?
How long is the track and is it very technical or open and flowing?
08-01-2009, 09:41 AM
#108
I just finished building my chassis (short of electronics, that has to wait till the first of the month)...photoblogged it on my site (see signature), if you're curious. My first time building an on-road kit. Tamiya does a great job, just wish they'd be as helpful as other manufacturers in bagging steps together, etc...
So Grizzbob, what pinion are you running with a 17.5 motor, on this? I'm new to both belt drive train and 4wd!
So Grizzbob, what pinion are you running with a 17.5 motor, on this? I'm new to both belt drive train and 4wd!
08-01-2009, 10:28 PM
#109
I have a Tekin RS speed controller with their 17.5 motor on the way, so now it's just a matter of figuring out how I'm going to gear it. Fairly large, flowing track, playground asphault. Only a few tight turns and a long straightaway. Just need some kind of starting point that I can work from.
Edit: Finished the body today, added a couple pictures.
Edit: Finished the body today, added a couple pictures.
Last edited by kdeselms; 08-02-2009 at 10:57 PM.
08-05-2009, 07:45 AM
#111
I have a Tekin RS speed controller with their 17.5 motor on the way, so now it's just a matter of figuring out how I'm going to gear it. Fairly large, flowing track, playground asphault. Only a few tight turns and a long straightaway. Just need some kind of starting point that I can work from.
Edit: Finished the body today, added a couple pictures.
Edit: Finished the body today, added a couple pictures.
08-05-2009, 04:33 PM
#113
Good read on the blog. It's interesting to get the perspective of an off-road guy putting together an on-road kit. As for the diff balls on the outer edges of the rings, this is actually becoming the preferred style in on-road, as the diffs stand up much better to the torque of brushless motors, and last longer between rebuilds. It's the same design they use on their flagship 416, though with aluminum diff halves. I believe Tamiya first introduced this, though, on the 501x off-road buggy.
08-05-2009, 05:17 PM
#114
08-05-2009, 05:35 PM
#116
So you are looking for the steel outdrives then? If you want delrin, you will need to find the white 415 spool outdrives as 416 ones will not work.
08-06-2009, 09:57 PM
#118
Yes.
08-06-2009, 10:39 PM
#119
.......
As for the diff balls on the outer edges of the rings, this is actually becoming the preferred style in on-road, as the diffs stand up much better to the torque of brushless motors, and last longer between rebuilds. It's the same design they use on their flagship 416, though with aluminum diff halves. I believe Tamiya first introduced this, though, on the 501x off-road buggy.
As for the diff balls on the outer edges of the rings, this is actually becoming the preferred style in on-road, as the diffs stand up much better to the torque of brushless motors, and last longer between rebuilds. It's the same design they use on their flagship 416, though with aluminum diff halves. I believe Tamiya first introduced this, though, on the 501x off-road buggy.
What i am looking forward to is to see a diff where the balls don't run down the same track on the rings but are a little oiffset in groups of three (four groups in a 12 ball diff). Thius would help the diff last a while between rebuilds. I have designed and made one by hand for my Kawada Sigma2 out of delrin (before Tamiya introduced their 37 tooth pulley in the 501 that has only htree balls offset outsied the others) but couldn't find anyone to cheaply manufacture it. I have also found a way to make the pulley out of one piece of material rather than have to glue/weld/attach somehow one side ring which I think is an improvement over conventional designs.
08-07-2009, 06:18 AM
#120
What i am looking forward to is to see a diff where the balls don't run down the same track on the rings but are a little oiffset in groups of three (four groups in a 12 ball diff). Thius would help the diff last a while between rebuilds. I have designed and made one by hand for my Kawada Sigma2 out of delrin (before Tamiya introduced their 37 tooth pulley in the 501 that has only htree balls offset outsied the others) but couldn't find anyone to cheaply manufacture it. I have also found a way to make the pulley out of one piece of material rather than have to glue/weld/attach somehow one side ring which I think is an improvement over conventional designs.