Like Tree130Likes

TA-05 ver.2

Old 01-30-2010, 11:09 AM
  #766  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,265
Trader Rating: 118 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BigRon
Hello, is anybody using their V2 as a VTA car? If so, what kind of setup are you running as far as suspension goes? Right now I'm going to run the box setup to start with. the track is a little tight and technical. I'll be using the black can motor right now until I get my hands on a 21.5BL. I'm going to run the car for the first time this weekend. Thanks
Stock box setup is good... all depend on track, grip level, tire wear, etc. But the box setup on the IFS car is good. You'll find it easy to drive.
Chris Furman is offline  
Old 01-30-2010, 04:20 PM
  #767  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 291
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BigRon
Hello, is anybody using their V2 as a VTA car? If so, what kind of setup are you running as far as suspension goes? Right now I'm going to run the box setup to start with. the track is a little tight and technical. I'll be using the black can motor right now until I get my hands on a 21.5BL. I'm going to run the car for the first time this weekend. Thanks
I have been running mine in VTA for a couple of weeks now and I feel that I have finally got the thing to handle half way decent. My setup will be different than your because I have TRF shocks on mine. The best advice I can give you is to be patient. The VTA tires take a long time to break in. If you start making all kinds of chassis adjustments right away, you will be chasing you tail. If you can practice on the track before you race, you should be able to break the tires in in a few hours. After mine settled in, I found that my car was way tight. Had to soften up the front suspension to get it to turn in off throttle. If you are going to race it, you will need to buy a spring set for the shocks. Better yet, the TRF shocks are very good and probably the best thing you can do for your TA-05. The springs that come with the kit are very stiff.

Good luck and have fun!

Andy
woodys3b is offline  
Old 01-30-2010, 05:58 PM
  #768  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
 
BigRon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cbus,Ohio USA
Posts: 529
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Thanks. I used to have one of the original version 05's when they first came out about 4 or 5 years ago. I was impressed with that car then and I'm now impressed with this car. I ran the car today on a tight little carpet track with med traction. I ran the box setup with the HPI VTA spec tires and the HPI 200mm Camero body. They only adjustment I made before running it was insure that the ride height was at no less that 5mm (track rule). Using the Tamiya Black can motor and the supplied 20t pinion, the car was VERY smooth. Great acceleration and speed. I only had 3 problems with the car today. Using the box setup* I had no rear end grip. I found myself finessing the car around the track the whole time. After toying around with the rear end (shock locations/camber link position) the rear end started to get some grip (very little, some) but then the front end started to push. Next I had a problem with the rear right A arm kept popping out of the suspension mounts. Then I had the front diff screw back out on me twice. Other than that, the car felt great. When putting the kit together I used Losi 37.5 shock oil instead of the kit 400 oil(no extra 400 oil). That oil combined with the 3 hole pistions and the kit (white w/ yellow dot) springs has proven to be too soft. Which "may" be reason for the lack of rear grip. As far as upgrades go, I will definitely be getting the universal shaft kits, aluminum suspension mounts and possibly a front spool.
BigRon is offline  
Old 01-30-2010, 06:03 PM
  #769  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
 
BigRon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cbus,Ohio USA
Posts: 529
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Andy, thanks for the info. I purchased the kit with the upgrade package which included the TRF shocks. My tires may be broken in then. Probably why the car started to push like a tank at the end of the day.
BigRon is offline  
Old 01-30-2010, 07:12 PM
  #770  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,542
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by C5R01
If a Tamiya rep is there there are no breaks. Reason use to work until others took reason to the edge and that's how tight rules get enforced.
Copy that, but I heard it from the man himself today (FMW) that this is allowed

btw, your sig is one of my all-time favorites
RedBullFiXX is offline  
Old 01-31-2010, 08:16 AM
  #771  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
C5R01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: The D!
Posts: 151
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX
Copy that, but I heard it from the man himself today (FMW) that this is allowed

btw, your sig is one of my all-time favorites



Good , now I can get milling. I heard that saying alongtime ago when a company I worked for ran SCCA World Challenge
C5R01 is offline  
Old 02-01-2010, 03:25 AM
  #772  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
tom_chang79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,592
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BigRon
Andy, thanks for the info. I purchased the kit with the upgrade package which included the TRF shocks. My tires may be broken in then. Probably why the car started to push like a tank at the end of the day.

My stock tires are nearly shot too... I noticed that some of the rims have some serious cracks, and the foams inside started to bunch up to one side so on some of my tires, there's a thin "rib" forming towards the inner edge since the foams are bunching up on the outside...

I think it's time to slap on some TOP tires on dish rims with some molded inserts...

tom_chang79 is offline  
Old 02-01-2010, 06:25 AM
  #773  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (118)
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,265
Trader Rating: 118 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tom_chang79
My stock tires are nearly shot too... I noticed that some of the rims have some serious cracks, and the foams inside started to bunch up to one side so on some of my tires, there's a thin "rib" forming towards the inner edge since the foams are bunching up on the outside...

I think it's time to slap on some TOP tires on dish rims with some molded inserts...


The box wheels and tires are for bashing not racing.

Tamiya dish wheels with hard insert. And Type-A tires for indoor carpet.
Chris Furman is offline  
Old 02-01-2010, 07:57 AM
  #774  
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,499
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default IFS-R to Ver.2

I have an IFS-R with alloy bulkheads and a few other upgraded parts. If I wanted to convert it to a Ver.2 chassis what parts would I need to buy?

I'm thinking just the chassis and the motor mount, but I'm not sure???
Geppetto is offline  
Old 02-01-2010, 08:27 AM
  #775  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
OSherman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: o0O In the FishBowl O0o
Posts: 3,602
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Geppetto
I have an IFS-R with alloy bulkheads and a few other upgraded parts. If I wanted to convert it to a Ver.2 chassis what parts would I need to buy?

I'm thinking just the chassis and the motor mount, but I'm not sure???
you will also need the front and rear chassis-to-bulkhead braces, and steering-rack/bellcrank pieces..

the hinge-pin blocks are also different on the ver.2 (split bridge for the blocks that cross over the belt) but i think you might (maybe) be able to use the regular bridge blocks...
OSherman is offline  
Old 02-01-2010, 09:01 AM
  #776  
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,499
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by OSherman
you will also need the front and rear chassis-to-bulkhead braces, and steering-rack/bellcrank pieces..

the hinge-pin blocks are also different on the ver.2 (split bridge for the blocks that cross over the belt) but i think you might (maybe) be able to use the regular bridge blocks...
Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered those other parts. I imagine that's probably more than $100 in parts.
Geppetto is offline  
Old 02-01-2010, 07:30 PM
  #777  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
tom_chang79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,592
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Geppetto
Thanks for the info. I hadn't considered those other parts. I imagine that's probably more than $100 in parts.
Yeah, your best bet would probably to get an entire Version 2 kit (the non-upgrade pack ones) and just transfer over your -R parts onto it...

But even after you get a Version 2 kit, I highly recommend getting the alloy Tamiya hingepin blocks for front and rear as well as a set of the fluorine-coated pivot balls...

The "fluorine-coated" pivot balls are actually metal! Had no idea. That's why it was well worth the price I paid for it. DO NOT BUY THE 3-Racing pivot balls, they are not the same dimensions...
tom_chang79 is offline  
Old 02-01-2010, 10:01 PM
  #778  
Tech Addict
 
Skitee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
Posts: 745
Default

Originally Posted by Geppetto
I have an IFS-R with alloy bulkheads and a few other upgraded parts. If I wanted to convert it to a Ver.2 chassis what parts would I need to buy?

I'm thinking just the chassis and the motor mount, but I'm not sure???
This is what you'll need to do a conversion from an IFS-R to a Ver.II

1 x 54095 - TB-03 Racing Steering Set
2 x 53851 - Titanium Coated 46mm Suspension Shaft
1 x 51253 - TB Evolution 5 "B" Parts
1 x 10115525 - TA-05 Ver.II "K" Parts
1 x 10115527 - TA-05 Ver.II "M" Parts
1 x 19115256 - TA-05 Ver.II Chassis
1 x 15405048 - TA-05 Ver.II Motor Mount
1 x 13454456 - TA-05 Ver.II Center Shaft
1 x 13454445 - TA-05 Ver.II Spur Gear Holder
1 x 54174 - TA-05 Ver.II SeperateSuspension Mounts (1C/1XC)
1 x 54172 - TA-05 Ver.II SeperateSuspension Mounts (1A/1XA)

If you want to complete the Ver.II conversion fully from a standard IFS then you'll need these parts too. It may actually be more cost effective to buy the Ver.II kit.

1 x 51092 - 46mm Swing Shaft
1 x 53742 - 46mm Swing Shaft - Lightweight
2 x 54076 - TB-03 Wheel Axles
2 x 53988 - TRF501X Ball Differential Pulley
2 x 51287 - Large Ball Diff Plate
1 x 53989 - TRF501X Center Pulley
2 x 54170 - TA-05 Ver.II Low Friction Drive Blet
2 x 53928 - Short Reversible Suspension Arm
1 x 54031 - TA05-IFS Carbon Reinforced F Parts - H Carrier (4deg)
1 x 51332 - TRF416 Front Upright
1 x 51333 - TRF416 Rear Upright
8 x 1050 bearings
Skitee is offline  
Old 02-02-2010, 11:07 PM
  #779  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 219
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Is the Ver. II really better than the standard TA05 and TA05-IFS? I'm looking to get my first belt drive car. Local price of the standard TA05 is equivalent to US$131, TA05-IFS is $149 and the Ver. II is $185. Is the V2 worth the $55 price difference? What upgrades should I be getting to set it up for 13.5 racing? Thanks
breyton is offline  
Old 02-04-2010, 09:30 PM
  #780  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (35)
 
tiko's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 948
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Hey guys, what is a must have hop-up for the TA-05 Ver2 chassis not counting the thing that already come with the kit.

Thanks
tiko is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.