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TA-05 ver.2

Old 12-07-2010, 06:06 AM
  #1501  
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Originally Posted by shikakae123
i think both fit but you'd need smaller bearings (850)
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Old 12-07-2010, 09:58 AM
  #1502  
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH
so far this works for me:

FRONT
1C-1C
1mm spacers under the suspension blocks
innermost hole (CF shocktower)
2nd to the outermost hole (arm)
3mm spacer on upper camberlink
400wt oil / silver HPI springs
spool
5mm wheel hex
medium sway bar
around .5-1deg toe-out

REAR
1X-1D (2deg toe)
1.5mm spacers under the suspension blocks
innermost hole (CF shock tower)
2nd to the outermost hole (arm)
2mm spacer on the upper camberlink
outermost hole on the rear upright
3mm spacer for the outer campberlink (on the rear upright)
300wt oil / blue HPI springs
alum ball diff
5mm wheel hex
softest sway bar

running 13.5 with boost, rubber tires
PF Speed6 with stock wing

not the fastest car on the track but its fun to drive...
Thank you I'll give that a try this weekend
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Old 12-08-2010, 02:59 AM
  #1503  
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Any one of you have broken the front upright before or there is a small crack and the screw falls out?Can anyone please tell me how to prevent it from happening?It has happen to me 3 times and it is annoying !
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:33 AM
  #1504  
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Originally Posted by shikakae123
Any one of you have broken the front upright before or there is a small crack and the screw falls out?Can anyone please tell me how to prevent it from happening?It has happen to me 3 times and it is annoying !
Use the carbon knuckles from the 416. Tap out the screw holes with a Tamiya 3mm tap and use longer screws. Be careful that the screws don't go too far in and hit the axle.

Same thing on the rear.

I would recommend using TRF 416 carbon parts for the uprights on all four corners and all four A arms. Keep the stock kit C hubs because they flex more and can absorb more impact without breaking. With this setup, you will break a C hub in most big impacts. These are easier to change and cheaper to change than an A arm or a hinge pin.

Bottom line is something has to give in a big impact. If you make one part stronger, another part will break. When the TA-05 V2 came out with the softer plastic short reversable suspension parts, all the suspension parts were immediately snatched up by the 416 racers because they were tired of breaking stuff.
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Old 12-08-2010, 07:26 AM
  #1505  
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
Use the carbon knuckles from the 416. Tap out the screw holes with a Tamiya 3mm tap and use longer screws. Be careful that the screws don't go too far in and hit the axle.

Same thing on the rear.

I would recommend using TRF 416 carbon parts for the uprights on all four corners and all four A arms. Keep the stock kit C hubs because they flex more and can absorb more impact without breaking. With this setup, you will break a C hub in most big impacts. These are easier to change and cheaper to change than an A arm or a hinge pin.

Bottom line is something has to give in a big impact. If you make one part stronger, another part will break. When the TA-05 V2 came out with the softer plastic short reversable suspension parts, all the suspension parts were immediately snatched up by the 416 racers because they were tired of breaking stuff.
Can you provide me with the parts number?
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Old 12-08-2010, 08:06 AM
  #1506  
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
Use the carbon knuckles from the 416. Tap out the screw holes with a Tamiya 3mm tap and use longer screws. Be careful that the screws don't go too far in and hit the axle.

Same thing on the rear.

I would recommend using TRF 416 carbon parts for the uprights on all four corners and all four A arms. Keep the stock kit C hubs because they flex more and can absorb more impact without breaking. With this setup, you will break a C hub in most big impacts. These are easier to change and cheaper to change than an A arm or a hinge pin.

Bottom line is something has to give in a big impact. If you make one part stronger, another part will break. When the TA-05 V2 came out with the softer plastic short reversable suspension parts, all the suspension parts were immediately snatched up by the 416 racers because they were tired of breaking stuff.
What is the 3mm tap?Is it 3x10mm tapping screw?What would the length of the longer screw be?If it is not to troublesome for you,can you list down all the parts that is needed so as to successfully change the upright and the list of stuff that need to be bought?

Last edited by shikakae123; 12-08-2010 at 08:11 AM. Reason: left out
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Old 12-08-2010, 03:18 PM
  #1507  
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Originally Posted by shikakae123
What is the 3mm tap?Is it 3x10mm tapping screw?What would the length of the longer screw be?If it is not to troublesome for you,can you list down all the parts that is needed so as to successfully change the upright and the list of stuff that need to be bought?
a tap is a tool that cuts threads into a hole. you pick the size and thread pitch you need so that you can use the corresponding screw.
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Old 12-08-2010, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by platypus_s13
a tap is a tool that cuts threads into a hole. you pick the size and thread pitch you need so that you can use the corresponding screw.
If i use a 3x10mm screw is it ok?
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Old 12-09-2010, 04:23 AM
  #1509  
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Originally Posted by shikakae123
Can you provide me with the parts number?
Front steering knuckle 51332.
Rear upright 51333.
Short reversible suspension arm 53928.
Tap 54232.

You can use a screw to tap the hole but once you use the Tamiya tap, you will kick yourself for not getting one sooner. It's not like a normal tap that cuts threads. It's more like a screw with a triangular cross section.

Not sure on the length of the screws I ended up with in there. I would just go with 2mm longer than what the kit calls for and if it is too long, you can cut or grind it down a bit.

All of these items are available from Tamiyausa.com. You can also get them from speedtechrc.com and save a few bucks.
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Old 12-09-2010, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
Front steering knuckle 51332.
Rear upright 51333.
Short reversible suspension arm 53928.
Tap 54232.

You can use a screw to tap the hole but once you use the Tamiya tap, you will kick yourself for not getting one sooner. It's not like a normal tap that cuts threads. It's more like a screw with a triangular cross section.

Not sure on the length of the screws I ended up with in there. I would just go with 2mm longer than what the kit calls for and if it is too long, you can cut or grind it down a bit.

All of these items are available from Tamiyausa.com. You can also get them from speedtechrc.com and save a few bucks.
Thanks so much.Can you also tell me the quantity that i have to buy,for example how many short reversible suspension arm etc.
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:34 AM
  #1511  
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
Use the carbon knuckles from the 416. Tap out the screw holes with a Tamiya 3mm tap and use longer screws. Be careful that the screws don't go too far in and hit the axle.

Same thing on the rear.

I would recommend using TRF 416 carbon parts for the uprights on all four corners and all four A arms. Keep the stock kit C hubs because they flex more and can absorb more impact without breaking. With this setup, you will break a C hub in most big impacts. These are easier to change and cheaper to change than an A arm or a hinge pin.

Bottom line is something has to give in a big impact. If you make one part stronger, another part will break. When the TA-05 V2 came out with the
softer plastic short reversable suspension parts, all the suspension parts were immediately snatched up by the 416 racers because they were tired of breaking stuff.
For the tapping part,is it tap the front upright or tap the suspension arm and rear upright as per the instruction manual?
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:48 AM
  #1512  
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Originally Posted by shikakae123
For the tapping part,is it tap the front upright or tap the suspension arm and rear upright as per the instruction manual?
It's a tap for any hole you are going to put a 3mm screw into. This isn't really an issue with the parts that come with the kit but the parts that I recommended are much harder. It can be difficult to put a screw into them without tapping them out first. So on the steering knuckles you would tap out the king pin hole and the hole at the bottom. Also, the hole that you put the ball stud in for the steering arm. In the back, you would tap out the camber link attachment point hole.
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by shikakae123
Thanks so much.Can you also tell me the quantity that i have to buy,for example how many short reversible suspension arm etc.
Everything comes in sets of two so you will need one of everything except the suspension arms. They come with one front and one rear arm. You will need to order two of them to get four. I would probably double up on everything just to have some spares available. These things are pretty inexpensive and strangely enough, they get hard to find when you really need one.
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:59 PM
  #1514  
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Originally Posted by woodys3b
It's a tap for any hole you are going to put a 3mm screw into. This isn't really an issue with the parts that come with the kit but the parts that I recommended are much harder. It can be difficult to put a screw into them without tapping them out first. So on the steering knuckles you would tap out the king pin hole and the hole at the bottom. Also, the hole that you put the ball stud in for the steering arm. In the back, you would tap out the camber link attachment point hole.
For the king pin,is it recommended that I buy this part ?

RC TB-03 Ball Head King Pin - (Fluorine Coated)
Item #54075
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:53 PM
  #1515  
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Cool A better "king" pin!

Originally Posted by shikakae123
For the king pin,is it recommended that I buy this part ?

RC TB-03 Ball Head King Pin - (Fluorine Coated)
Item #54075
This item is actually a better set-up for what your doing but not necessary. The one you have now will work but it's nice to install your kingpins using the 2mm wrench and the kit coming with the .7mm spacers is a nice addition. I always seem to loose the .7 spacers.
Plus I believe the kingpin sits a a little lower in the top of the c-hub which can be an issue with low profile rims because they tend to hit the top of the ball cup under hard rebounding if you hit a dot.
Of coarse, I never had that happen to me!
Just my 2$
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