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Old 08-23-2009, 09:04 PM   #361
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oooooooooh okay...

one more question, where can i find shims for the car? i will most likely buy the needed parts from rcmart
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:19 PM   #362
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If you have the front/rear block spaced with the standard 3mm spacer either put in a 3.5 or find a combo that gets you 3.5mm and you should be set, otherwise the shims are listed as roll center shims and come in .5 and 1mm, and RCmart should have them listed.
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Old 08-24-2009, 04:35 AM   #363
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is there a one way or spool in the front on the copy?

if not a oneway, where can i find one? (havent raced tamiya so i dont know from what car it will fit)
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Old 08-24-2009, 05:43 AM   #364
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is there a one way or spool in the front on the copy?

if not a oneway, where can i find one? (havent raced tamiya so i dont know from what car it will fit)
It has spool.

You can buy one way unit. Rcmarket or rcmart.

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Old 08-24-2009, 06:09 AM   #365
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ok!

have read through the whole thread (well, almost!)

so if i buy this car and replace:

diffscrew (and thrust bearing)
arms, hubs and caster blocks
steel universals at the front
shocks (i have a spare set of trf shocks)
std 416we topdeck, 2.25mm thick

then i have a car that drives and handles like a "real" trf416we?

the cost would be well under $300 with all parts included and that makes it all very interesting!

i havent seen any post that say that its like the real car, but i might have to wait until a experienced driver tests the car and can give a clear answer to that

thing is that i have a ta05ifs r today, it handles just fine, but i would like to have a slightly lighter car, and i`m not a big fan of bath tub chassis (but thats just me) so if the copy can have the same handling as the original after some mods then im in!
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Old 08-24-2009, 02:16 PM   #366
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ok!

have read through the whole thread (well, almost!)

so if i buy this car and replace:

diffscrew (and thrust bearing)
arms, hubs and caster blocks
steel universals at the front
shocks (i have a spare set of trf shocks)
std 416we topdeck, 2.25mm thick

then i have a car that drives and handles like a "real" trf416we?

the cost would be well under $300 with all parts included and that makes it all very interesting!

i havent seen any post that say that its like the real car, but i might have to wait until a experienced driver tests the car and can give a clear answer to that

thing is that i have a ta05ifs r today, it handles just fine, but i would like to have a slightly lighter car, and i`m not a big fan of bath tub chassis (but thats just me) so if the copy can have the same handling as the original after some mods then im in!
I dont think the car would be any lighter than the TA05. I recall my TA05 being very good on that score. Handled averagely though, in comparison with the xrays.

Logic states that the CAMIYA should handle basically the same as a 416WE with a 2.5mm chassis on it, but stiffer still, because of the crazy top deck! I will give the car a real go on Thursday with all the parts ive stated and report back. I've driven Xray 09s/T2s and they obviously go mega laptimes, so the TRFclone has a lot to live upto.

I'm not sensationaly quick, but have been in the As at club meets with my old Xray T2 when everyone else runs Xray 08s/09s and Tamiya TRF416s.

On setup, I will use TRF White/Blue springs front / TRF White/Yellow springs rear as they seem to be THE springs of choice at the moment, even on xray cars. I just pray the parts arrive by Thursday morning! Also, I have tried my best to look at all the top drivers settings at what the optimum setting of the car is in terms of roll center and luckily the car is already set. Just 5mm washer under the knuckles is needed for ackerman, as the shims under the bulkheads are what the drivers use. 5mm / 5mm for rear, 0mm / 0mm front.

I've shimmed the car so well, there is basically zero play in the wheel hubs, steering block, shocks, dremmeled the top deck around the parts that touch the motor mount and finally shimmed under the uprights that link them to the c-hubs. Its taken a week to do with the time I have after work. The suspension just works as soon as the car touches the ground!

My big concern is the fragility of the CAMIYA.
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Old 08-24-2009, 03:00 PM   #367
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all of this talk of playing and setting the car up is a tease..

i want results!!!!! thats really going to be the deal breaker on this car.

my friend is currently driving a ta05, and i wanted to find him a cheap graphite upgrade chassis... this may be the one if the results turn out nicely.
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Old 08-24-2009, 03:02 PM   #368
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looking forward to hear your results!

yeah the plastics might not be the most durable part of the car but the original tamiya arms etc is only like $25 in total
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Old 08-24-2009, 03:03 PM   #369
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Well, if i could get a decent answer from RC Market.. LMAO

PM-- they answer= yes, email us..

Email-- two days later they answer "car this week instock"

email reply, can i pay now-- you send when its in? (within seconds of their email, mind you)... no reply..

PM from RC Market-- yes, we can combine shipping...



i just want to pay so i can stop waiting for the email.. LMAO
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Old 08-24-2009, 03:21 PM   #370
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Well, if i could get a decent answer from RC Market.. LMAO

PM-- they answer= yes, email us..

Email-- two days later they answer "car this week instock"

email reply, can i pay now-- you send when its in? (within seconds of their email, mind you)... no reply..

PM from RC Market-- yes, we can combine shipping...



i just want to pay so i can stop waiting for the email.. LMAO
Very stange. I've had nothing but excellent service with RCMARKET.
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Old 08-24-2009, 04:29 PM   #371
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On setup, I will use TRF White/Blue springs front / TRF White/Yellow springs rear as they seem to be THE springs of choice at the moment, even on xray cars. I just pray the parts arrive by Thursday morning! Also, I have tried my best to look at all the top drivers settings at what the optimum setting of the car is in terms of roll center and luckily the car is already set. Just 5mm washer under the knuckles is needed for ackerman, as the shims under the bulkheads are what the drivers use 5mm / 5mm for rear, 0mm / 0mm front.
I would double check those settings, its .5mm under the knuckles for the bump steer and 5mm on the drag link. Also 5 mm/5mm is way too much, maybe .5mm. Are you running on asphalt or carpet? I would think you'll want 0mm/0mm for a low roll center and maybe a 1mm front and 1.5mm front/rear for antidive.
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Old 08-25-2009, 03:31 AM   #372
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I would double check those settings, its .5mm under the knuckles for the bump steer and 5mm on the drag link. Also 5 mm/5mm is way too much, maybe .5mm. Are you running on asphalt or carpet? I would think you'll want 0mm/0mm for a low roll center and maybe a 1mm front and 1.5mm front/rear for antidive.
Sorry, I did mean .5mm! LOL My silly mistake. Wouldn't that be too agressive a setting regards 1.5mm front rear? Do you mean 1.5mm right at the rear to cause the rear arms to point downwards? Also do you mean 1mm / 1mm at the front? - I am interested in this, as these are things I never really experiment. I do everything else, like springs, damper positions, roll center with top links, ride height etc. I Like my car to have lots of steering, but it always turns itself into time loosing oversteer.

I run on carpet.
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:09 AM   #373
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tc3, so kind of you to come on this forum and jam your morals down our throats.
I have morals.

But a company who copies someone else's design of car to make a quick profit do not...
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Old 08-25-2009, 05:30 AM   #374
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Well- RCMarket is out. I can only ask the same question so many times without proper answer until i move on.

I contacted the other shop that has them on ebay and they gave me a special price of 211.22 shipped to USA. Paid--

im now looking out the door for UPS?? why isnt it here yet?

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Old 08-25-2009, 06:57 AM   #375
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arrived $200 w/shipping
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