416 WE made in China
#346
#347
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I am 100% on this. Waiting for an email reply from RCMarket. Might buy two.. still up in the air.
One will definitely make its way to me this week.
i know what i wanted to ask...
does this car come with all of the toe blocks?
KB
One will definitely make its way to me this week.
i know what i wanted to ask...
does this car come with all of the toe blocks?
KB
Last edited by Keith Billanti; 08-23-2009 at 01:43 PM.
#348
Good to hear your back Keith.
#349
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
It will come with a basic setup of blocks, the same as a original WE, just double check them as there are some wide variencess over OEM parts, so your setting of lets say 3* rear toe, may not actually be 3*. The car has work arounds for its short comings.
Good to hear your back Keith.
Good to hear your back Keith.
I cant stop looking at the pics.. i am so stoked over this. Pics soon hopefully
whats the good rubber/carpet body these days? I have two Mowhawks sitting on a shelf.. will those work? Recommendations? (preferably PF or Parma)
thanks for the well wishes JW cant wait to officially be "back"-- going to take some work, i think
#350
order few spare front toe blocks cos Original ones bends so easy (I mean Original TRF ones )
front upside down one
front upside down one
#351
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Really? weird. Is it in the aluminum, or in the plastic rear hubs?
I cant stop looking at the pics.. i am so stoked over this. Pics soon hopefully
whats the good rubber/carpet body these days? I have two Mowhawks sitting on a shelf.. will those work? Recommendations? (preferably PF or Parma)
thanks for the well wishes JW cant wait to officially be "back"-- going to take some work, i think
I cant stop looking at the pics.. i am so stoked over this. Pics soon hopefully
whats the good rubber/carpet body these days? I have two Mowhawks sitting on a shelf.. will those work? Recommendations? (preferably PF or Parma)
thanks for the well wishes JW cant wait to officially be "back"-- going to take some work, i think
#352
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Im already anticipating replacing the CVDs or what ever theyre called-- the arms/hubs/castor blocks/spindle carriers.. Basically anything that looks insufficient.. and ill still have a half price car that i always wanted, but didnt want to drop 500.00 for LOL.
Plus, at this price-- its a throw away car.. i mean, i wont have any gripes if i run it outdoors... or if it isnt all i hoped for..
Cant wait.
We should start our own support thread- im sure the 416 guys wont want "us" around
Plus, at this price-- its a throw away car.. i mean, i wont have any gripes if i run it outdoors... or if it isnt all i hoped for..
Cant wait.
We should start our own support thread- im sure the 416 guys wont want "us" around
#353
Tech Regular
iTrader: (18)
Tbh i dont think the 416 guys actually care. But it would be a good ideal to have your own thread because the set up of these cars wont be the same as the original 416 and there will be a lot of beginners who get this 416C and not be able to set it up and drive properly.
The suggested thread should include:
- rebuild out of box tips (diffs, shocks etc)
- list of things should be replaced
- set ups
- pics etc
The suggested thread should include:
- rebuild out of box tips (diffs, shocks etc)
- list of things should be replaced
- set ups
- pics etc
#354
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Tbh i dont think the 416 guys actually care. But it would be a good ideal to have your own thread because the set up of these cars wont be the same as the original 416 and there will be a lot of beginners who get this 416C and not be able to set it up and drive properly.
The suggested thread should include:
- rebuild out of box tips (diffs, shocks etc)
- list of things should be replaced
- set ups
- pics etc
The suggested thread should include:
- rebuild out of box tips (diffs, shocks etc)
- list of things should be replaced
- set ups
- pics etc
SHould be pretty similar as the car looks to be a direct copy. I mean, aside from materials in the arms, coatings in the shocks..and pivot points making a difference, i cant see it being something that would translate too much on a track. Well, thicker chassis aside... but again- shouldnt be too far off.
we will see- this is all speculation until someone puts the car on a track.
Im not going to be too much help at first considering the last time i actually ran TC was at the 07' carpet nats.. Not counting two race days at the beginning of this year...
we will see
#357
2.50 chassis and upper deck over TRF 2.25 chassiss and upper deck. Lots of talk of softer or weaker aluminum. The suspension blocks just seem to be all over the place, same as old versus new TRF blocks, so what is written isn't necessarily the given for sweep or toe, best to check to be sure, either with the C car or the OE 416. Just make sure you run a longer screw in the front, rear block, the flipped one, seems some people are bending those alot.
Bodies, I just did some back to back testing and the Mazda Speed 6 is the most neutral body, the LTC-R is close but maybe a little front biased, I would not run the R9-R, that thing is just evil. The Mazda 6 is almost a little loose or pushy. The "big" rear wing will bite the back more than the cut down version unless you run the dia planes with it, the cutouts are okay a little faster, top end on the straight, and still gives good traction.
Neither of the bodies you list a really good for rubber, but what the heck, give it a try.
The new TA-05 split suspension blocks, although with initail install, are harder to put in, but once in, make the car easier to work on, side to side. They are nice as they cut your parts count down. Performance wise, they make absolutely no difference, again from testing, I only saw .02 lap difference from one to the other.
Since you have been out for a while, I can tell you one word, that really makes a difference with the car. ANTIDIVE, put it in and you'll like the results, other tuning hasn't changed much. The JACO blue tires are great on carpet and last forever.
Bodies, I just did some back to back testing and the Mazda Speed 6 is the most neutral body, the LTC-R is close but maybe a little front biased, I would not run the R9-R, that thing is just evil. The Mazda 6 is almost a little loose or pushy. The "big" rear wing will bite the back more than the cut down version unless you run the dia planes with it, the cutouts are okay a little faster, top end on the straight, and still gives good traction.
Neither of the bodies you list a really good for rubber, but what the heck, give it a try.
The new TA-05 split suspension blocks, although with initail install, are harder to put in, but once in, make the car easier to work on, side to side. They are nice as they cut your parts count down. Performance wise, they make absolutely no difference, again from testing, I only saw .02 lap difference from one to the other.
Since you have been out for a while, I can tell you one word, that really makes a difference with the car. ANTIDIVE, put it in and you'll like the results, other tuning hasn't changed much. The JACO blue tires are great on carpet and last forever.
#358
One more thing Keith, if your going to run that car at Cleveland, or any of the tracks that have the screwed down boarders, get a hardened front bumper, either the one from TRF, or parma TC5 will work with minimal mods. Neither the OE or the C car are not as tough as a Xray on frontal assaults with boards, not that you'll be hitting anything, lol.
#360
If your running rubber on carpet or asphalt and you find that under hard braking in tight turns the back end is kicking out, put some antidive (.5mm shim under the front/rear block,(the flipped one)) this will settle the rear down by not letting as much weight transfer to the front or making the rear lighter and thus unloading or kicking out.