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416 WE made in China

416 WE made in China

Old 08-23-2009, 11:23 AM
  #346  
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Originally Posted by mar
Dear rc market!

I asked on this week do you have this car? Your answer was we don't have this car and we won't have any more. I had to order from r2hobbies. I am very dissapointed.
I see now you have this car again.

Andrew
Sorry back in stock in this week !
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Old 08-23-2009, 01:28 PM
  #347  
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I am 100% on this. Waiting for an email reply from RCMarket. Might buy two.. still up in the air.

One will definitely make its way to me this week.

i know what i wanted to ask...

does this car come with all of the toe blocks?

KB

Last edited by Keith Billanti; 08-23-2009 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 08-23-2009, 03:48 PM
  #348  
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Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
I am 100% on this. Waiting for an email reply from RCMarket. Might buy two.. still up in the air.

One will definitely make its way to me this week.

i know what i wanted to ask...

does this car come with all of the toe blocks?

KB
It will come with a basic setup of blocks, the same as a original WE, just double check them as there are some wide variencess over OEM parts, so your setting of lets say 3* rear toe, may not actually be 3*. The car has work arounds for its short comings.

Good to hear your back Keith.
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:04 PM
  #349  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
It will come with a basic setup of blocks, the same as a original WE, just double check them as there are some wide variencess over OEM parts, so your setting of lets say 3* rear toe, may not actually be 3*. The car has work arounds for its short comings.

Good to hear your back Keith.
Really? weird. Is it in the aluminum, or in the plastic rear hubs?

I cant stop looking at the pics.. i am so stoked over this. Pics soon hopefully

whats the good rubber/carpet body these days? I have two Mowhawks sitting on a shelf.. will those work? Recommendations? (preferably PF or Parma)

thanks for the well wishes JW cant wait to officially be "back"-- going to take some work, i think
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:07 PM
  #350  
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order few spare front toe blocks cos Original ones bends so easy (I mean Original TRF ones )
front upside down one
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:09 PM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by Keith Billanti
Really? weird. Is it in the aluminum, or in the plastic rear hubs?

I cant stop looking at the pics.. i am so stoked over this. Pics soon hopefully

whats the good rubber/carpet body these days? I have two Mowhawks sitting on a shelf.. will those work? Recommendations? (preferably PF or Parma)

thanks for the well wishes JW cant wait to officially be "back"-- going to take some work, i think
Protoform has a whole list of bodies. The R9-R is a very aggressive body, the LTC-R is not as aggressive as the R9 but still a lot of steering, and the MazdaSpeed 6 is probably the most popular body of them all. There's also the Mazda 6, but I haven't heard what those are like.
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Old 08-23-2009, 04:12 PM
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Im already anticipating replacing the CVDs or what ever theyre called-- the arms/hubs/castor blocks/spindle carriers.. Basically anything that looks insufficient.. and ill still have a half price car that i always wanted, but didnt want to drop 500.00 for LOL.

Plus, at this price-- its a throw away car.. i mean, i wont have any gripes if i run it outdoors... or if it isnt all i hoped for..

Cant wait.

We should start our own support thread- im sure the 416 guys wont want "us" around
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Old 08-23-2009, 05:18 PM
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Tbh i dont think the 416 guys actually care. But it would be a good ideal to have your own thread because the set up of these cars wont be the same as the original 416 and there will be a lot of beginners who get this 416C and not be able to set it up and drive properly.

The suggested thread should include:
- rebuild out of box tips (diffs, shocks etc)
- list of things should be replaced
- set ups
- pics etc
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Old 08-23-2009, 05:26 PM
  #354  
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Originally Posted by Steveagle
Tbh i dont think the 416 guys actually care. But it would be a good ideal to have your own thread because the set up of these cars wont be the same as the original 416 and there will be a lot of beginners who get this 416C and not be able to set it up and drive properly.

The suggested thread should include:
- rebuild out of box tips (diffs, shocks etc)
- list of things should be replaced
- set ups
- pics etc
yah, i dont think they would care either- was more of a joke than anything.

SHould be pretty similar as the car looks to be a direct copy. I mean, aside from materials in the arms, coatings in the shocks..and pivot points making a difference, i cant see it being something that would translate too much on a track. Well, thicker chassis aside... but again- shouldnt be too far off.

we will see- this is all speculation until someone puts the car on a track.

Im not going to be too much help at first considering the last time i actually ran TC was at the 07' carpet nats.. Not counting two race days at the beginning of this year...

we will see
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Old 08-23-2009, 06:44 PM
  #355  
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i have to agree the car does look damn good..and people are like im getting it, i got it! but then you never hear back from them..we need results!we the people DEMAND them!
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Old 08-23-2009, 06:56 PM
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Well- its 10am in Hong Kong. Where is my reply email from RCMarket

naw-- hoping to hear from them NOW-- as i will pay NOW-- so it can ship TODAY lol..

KB
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:33 PM
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2.50 chassis and upper deck over TRF 2.25 chassiss and upper deck. Lots of talk of softer or weaker aluminum. The suspension blocks just seem to be all over the place, same as old versus new TRF blocks, so what is written isn't necessarily the given for sweep or toe, best to check to be sure, either with the C car or the OE 416. Just make sure you run a longer screw in the front, rear block, the flipped one, seems some people are bending those alot.

Bodies, I just did some back to back testing and the Mazda Speed 6 is the most neutral body, the LTC-R is close but maybe a little front biased, I would not run the R9-R, that thing is just evil. The Mazda 6 is almost a little loose or pushy. The "big" rear wing will bite the back more than the cut down version unless you run the dia planes with it, the cutouts are okay a little faster, top end on the straight, and still gives good traction.

Neither of the bodies you list a really good for rubber, but what the heck, give it a try.

The new TA-05 split suspension blocks, although with initail install, are harder to put in, but once in, make the car easier to work on, side to side. They are nice as they cut your parts count down. Performance wise, they make absolutely no difference, again from testing, I only saw .02 lap difference from one to the other.

Since you have been out for a while, I can tell you one word, that really makes a difference with the car. ANTIDIVE, put it in and you'll like the results, other tuning hasn't changed much. The JACO blue tires are great on carpet and last forever.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:49 PM
  #358  
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One more thing Keith, if your going to run that car at Cleveland, or any of the tracks that have the screwed down boarders, get a hardened front bumper, either the one from TRF, or parma TC5 will work with minimal mods. Neither the OE or the C car are not as tough as a Xray on frontal assaults with boards, not that you'll be hitting anything, lol.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:51 PM
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whats anti-dive?
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:57 PM
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If your running rubber on carpet or asphalt and you find that under hard braking in tight turns the back end is kicking out, put some antidive (.5mm shim under the front/rear block,(the flipped one)) this will settle the rear down by not letting as much weight transfer to the front or making the rear lighter and thus unloading or kicking out.
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