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Old 08-22-2009, 05:16 AM   #331
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What are these things worth?

Ben
i believe they where 234.30 au from http://r2hobbies.com/
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Old 08-22-2009, 08:59 AM   #332
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I had a close look at one of these counterfeit TRF416's last night....my god it sucks.

All of the chassis parts are the same thickness, 2.5mm for the upper and lower decks, and towers. They don't fit properly on the upper bulks, because they are designed for the original Tamiya thickness.

The steering is sooooo tight. That might be worked out with running, but would probably overstress the servo before you'd done a lap.

The rear diff comes dry as a bone.

The wishbones are really soft, as you compress the suspension, you can see it bend. If the hubs are the same material, then they'll strip threads.

The only halfway decent bit are the shocks.

But to be honest, anyone buying one of these cars are killing the RC industry, right when it needs all the support it can get.
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Old 08-22-2009, 02:51 PM   #333
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Hy

It was a very bad feedback. I ordered one from r2hobbies. Maybe it will on next Friday.
I have speak with official trf team racer and he will test my car. He racing in modifies with trf416we. He will put 2.5T Bl to my car. It will be a real test. I hope that my car will survive the test.
I will share with you the result of the test.
How does the clone damp work with new oil?

Andrew
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Old 08-22-2009, 07:32 PM   #334
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Hy

It was a very bad feedback. I ordered one from r2hobbies. Maybe it will on next Friday.
I have speak with official trf team racer and he will test my car. He racing in modifies with trf416we. He will put 2.5T Bl to my car. It will be a real test. I hope that my car will survive the test.
I will share with you the result of the test.
How does the clone damp work with new oil?

Andrew
please let me know how this goes! i maybe ordering one shortly...i saw a real 416 today at the track and had difficulty telling if it was real or not (only thing that got me was he had the real TRF box. i was afraid to ask if it was real or not...didnt want to insult him
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Old 08-23-2009, 06:58 AM   #335
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Originally Posted by mar View Post
Hy

It was a very bad feedback. I ordered one from r2hobbies. Maybe it will on next Friday.
I have speak with official trf team racer and he will test my car. He racing in modifies with trf416we. He will put 2.5T Bl to my car. It will be a real test. I hope that my car will survive the test.
I will share with you the result of the test.
How does the clone damp work with new oil?

Andrew
Don't do that
TRFake can not handle that much stress
13.5+few original parts...
It should be ok for you...
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:51 AM   #336
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Intrigued.

I have been around for years, (too many) and although im not condoning a fake toy car any more than a fake rolex... but this, for some reason-- seems like good news for the hobby to me.

No- not for manufacturers, but for racers.

I have been on a break from RC because of a few reasons, one being having two kids.. and chassis sponsor dumping me due to time away

the other- because of the sheer cost of running a car at the level i want to run at. Who can afford 1k for a decent chassis set up.. then blow off 100.00 in foam tires in a weekend?

I have been going back and forth with which chassis i will be running this coming carpet season, and im not going to lie- this just jumped to top choice.

I wish i read this thread weeks ago when i first saw it.

I am also a bit amped up as the 416 it self, might not be suited for foam racing, but with the thickened up chassis and a little logical thinking (parts replacements) this might be a winner.

I may buy TWO of them. One for foam, one for rubber.

Haters- well, they must like spending 500.00 on a kit? I tell just fine from the pictures and previous comments that this car will run just fine with the proper wrench behind it.
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:15 AM   #337
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TRFake looks much much better than plastic cyclone s
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:23 AM   #338
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INDEED.

Also, while were talking fakes, and copies.. all of the cars are a copy of something. With the exception of the Type R, but one could argue the Pro3 influenced that..

this is a little more blatant- but never the less...

waiting to hear from them on availability... and weather or not they will combine shipping..
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Old 08-23-2009, 08:38 AM   #339
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trf diff screw or a complete diff,original wishbones,c hubs,uprights proper shimming for free operation,steel cvd to the front that's all you need , you still save $200+
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Old 08-23-2009, 09:31 AM   #340
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Originally Posted by academygaz View Post
I had a close look at one of these counterfeit TRF416's last night....my god it sucks.

All of the chassis parts are the same thickness, 2.5mm for the upper and lower decks, and towers. They don't fit properly on the upper bulks, because they are designed for the original Tamiya thickness.

The steering is sooooo tight. That might be worked out with running, but would probably overstress the servo before you'd done a lap.

The rear diff comes dry as a bone.

The wishbones are really soft, as you compress the suspension, you can see it bend. If the hubs are the same material, then they'll strip threads.

The only halfway decent bit are the shocks.

But to be honest, anyone buying one of these cars are killing the RC industry, right when it needs all the support it can get.
The diff needs anti wear grease on the thrust bearing and grease on the balls. I mean its not exactly a difficult job is it? - You shouldn't run it as soon as its received. The car should all be taken apart, greased, shimmed and checked for all binding. For me, part of the fun of rc is sorting out small issues like this!

The wishbones dont move at all under suspension compression. They arent rock hard, but its got slight flex when you physically bend the front ones by hand. Most tamiya arms do this!

The steering is great. I dont get what you mean, as with 5 mins of your time the binding goes!- That is normal rc stuff for an rc car builder, not rocket science!

I brought aluminium c hubs, as the ones for the TA05IFS are exactly the same. They cost 10 for a pair of them. That isnt classed as a loss, as I would buy alu c hubs for a normal Tamiya TRF416, as its a fragile car as it is.

I will try this car out on Thursday on a race meeting and let you guys know how it goes. If it handles like trash (doubtful, as its the same geometry as the real one) i'll be honest and say its a waste of time. The car has so far come to 160 with the parts needed, so its about half the price of the real one so far.
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:33 AM   #341
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same $200 w/shipping
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Old 08-23-2009, 10:56 AM   #342
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Dear rc market!

I asked on this week do you have this car? Your answer was we don't have this car and we won't have any more. I had to order from r2hobbies. I am very dissapointed.
I see now you have this car again.

Andrew
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:23 AM   #343
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So the list to buy when i get the car:

steel front CVDs
anti-wear grease
2-4 diff screws (in case they break)
alum. c hubs

anything else?
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Old 08-23-2009, 11:56 AM   #344
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Originally Posted by Double D Donuts View Post
So the list to buy when i get the car:

steel front CVDs
anti-wear grease
2-4 diff screws (in case they break)
alum. c hubs

anything else?
a REAL trf416we

sorry i'll get my coat LOL
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Old 08-23-2009, 12:22 PM   #345
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Originally Posted by Double D Donuts View Post
So the list to buy when i get the car:

steel front CVDs
anti-wear grease
2-4 diff screws (in case they break)
alum. c hubs

anything else?
Id buy a aftermarket ceramic thrust bearing, which is about 10 dollars.

tamiya white spring set. (about 12 dollars for set)

tamiya ball cups (if you want to go mad, so they dont pop out on impacts) (about 3.50 dollars)

A better servo saver (one that has perfect return after a crash)

clear o-rings for the shocks. (8 o-rings needed to replace the red oversized ones that come in the shocks)

Shim set. 0.50mm x2 / 0.30mm x4 / 2mm x4 (The .50 ones for the steering turnbuckles underneath, for correct ackerman setting, as they forgot to add them. The .30 ones to put underneath the o-rings for the shocks, to make perfect fit and the shock rods dont swing from side to side. The last thing you need is the shocks compressing at splayed angles!

I'm pretty sure the work needs to be done completely for the front only, in terms of strength as the rear arms are stronger in design anyway. Another thing I did, was put 2mm shim inside the shock bodies (onto the rod, before putting the rod in the shocks), This way you can keep the 'screw on' design the Chinese made, instead on the 'pop out' ball connector type, which is rubbish on tamiya cars anyway.

The reason for the 2mm shim inside each shock body, is to get 62mm shocks, to make the same as the trf shocks. 64mm shocks are too long as they are. I have to say the shock bodies that come with it are incrediblly good considering. Far superior to xray ones. Sort of in between trf and serpent shocks in smoothness of operation.
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