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Old 08-19-2009, 01:01 PM   #301
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could you PLs add some pics ...
also waiting for your race report
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Old 08-19-2009, 03:46 PM   #302
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Originally Posted by maxg123456 View Post
Hi guys.

This is my first post on here, but have been keeping an eye on this 416 copy or clone etc etc. I ordered one from RCMarket and it arrived in 4 working days from Hong Kong, which is pretty quick (as usual for RCMarket!)

On first inspection, the Chinaman put the c hubs on the wrong way round, so the tops of the hubs were pointing towards the bumper. I also looked at a few other issues, like the shocks and they felt a bit wrong in feel. I thought looking at this thing so far, i'd better undo the whole thing and put it back together.

I thread locked in all the bottom screws. Shimmed everything in the steering rack so the least amount of play was left. The diffs problem which was already pointed out on here, was the long screw which actually only works how the Chinaman did it -the wrong way round, so the thrust bearing is in on the other side. The only downside in this, is that the diff cannot be adjusted quickly. I actually undone it and replaced the balls with tungsten ones and sanded the plates flat on both sides. I greased it all and also even greased the crappy thrustbearing and plates that came with it with Tamiya Antiwear grease. (Which is my favourite grease in RC because its incredible on my 1/8scale on road driveshafts, incredible lack of wear when applied right.)

The shocks I checked and the bodies look remarkably good quality. I thrown out the red o rings and put in clear ones. I then changed the oil caps with old TRF ones that I already had. I also had old tamiya shock rods that I feel are better than the gold ones that come with it and I had them already too! Next, I filled them all with 50wt oil and they actually rebound well and dont squeak at all. They are very very smooth if done right and actually feel like TRF shocks with proper rods/o rings/oil seals.

When I finished the car, I spent nothing extra on it, as I had the parts already. The car looks amazing. I have a feeling the anti roll bar cups are too loose, so they will probably pop out. Also the cups on everything else are possibly too likely to pop out on impacts. Apart from those things, the car should handle brilliantly as everything is made well enough.

So things I did -

Replaced all o rings and oil seals for dampers.
Replaced shock rods with standard tamiya ones.
Used tons of anti wear grease on the thrust bearing and plates, but I would replace the thrust bearing with the original and get the correct screw.
smimmed the steering rack to try and remove play.
Anti wear greased the cvds fully.

Hopefully the car lasts a full race meeting on Thursday and will let you know how it went. The handling should be great but my only concern is the diff and if the car is fragile. All in all the car is easily worth the money, even with the changes that need to be made. Even if the car breaks the c hubs/blocks easily, they can be replaced over time for those on a budget with aluminium ones.
dont forget the 5x.5mm shim that goes in between the diff bearings!
Also check for free play in the shock preload collars, i had a problem with them blasting up the shock body during operation.
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Old 08-19-2009, 03:48 PM   #303
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have you sold your one?
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:33 PM   #304
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Hi again. Yes, I did remember to add the shim. Just forgot to add it to the story I told!

I think I have the shock issue youre talking about. they still feel good but I will have to sort it out after my first race event.



Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
dont forget the 5x.5mm shim that goes in between the diff bearings!
Also check for free play in the shock preload collars, i had a problem with them blasting up the shock body during operation.
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Old 08-19-2009, 04:33 PM   #305
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could you PLs add some pics ...
also waiting for your race report
I'll try to get my camera linked up and take a few images.
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Old 08-19-2009, 07:49 PM   #306
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what I ended up doing was using some pliars and "ovaling" the shape of
the spring pre-load collar so that the threads would catch the shock body.
If you measure the outside diamater of the shock body and the inside diamater of the pre-load collar, you will find they are the same and wont' catch.

By pinching the collar, you "oval" the circle collar and it will catch. Yes
it will still be easy to adjust.
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Old 08-20-2009, 02:39 PM   #307
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Hi! My name is Peter, im new in this forum. I live in Hungary... Sory for my bad english : )
When we first talked about the car, in Hungary there was a little scandal... The hungarian tamiya team said: its a shit, its a copy bla bla....
I wanna buy one. I red this topic its very good: )
I know what i need to change first in the car.
I have a question: Why i need to change the damper cap? i know its smaller than the tamiya 416 damper cap. But its just design ? Or not? is is important?

Looking forward to your kind response

Peter
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Old 08-20-2009, 05:50 PM   #308
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Is the chasis Carbon Fibre?
Cos one of my close friend said it looks like but it's not
Cheers
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Old 08-20-2009, 06:05 PM   #309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peet14 View Post
Hi! My name is Peter, im new in this forum. I live in Hungary... Sory for my bad english : )
When we first talked about the car, in Hungary there was a little scandal... The hungarian tamiya team said: its a shit, its a copy bla bla....
I wanna buy one. I red this topic its very good: )
I know what i need to change first in the car.
I have a question: Why i need to change the damper cap? i know its smaller than the tamiya 416 damper cap. But its just design ? Or not? is is important?

Looking forward to your kind response

Peter
what is a damper cap?
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Old 08-20-2009, 06:05 PM   #310
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Is the chasis Carbon Fibre?
Cos one of my close friend said it looks like but it's not
Cheers
yes it is carbon fibre
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Old 08-20-2009, 06:27 PM   #311
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
yes it is carbon fibre
Interesting There might be some different grade of TRFake
He has gone back to Malaysia for holiday and his friends has few of these and he said car a bit fragile and chasis looks like Carbon but actually FRP...
Cheers
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Old 08-20-2009, 07:56 PM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
Interesting There might be some different grade of TRFake
He has gone back to Malaysia for holiday and his friends has few of these and he said car a bit fragile and chasis looks like Carbon but actually FRP...
Cheers
Its definately carbon without question. Its just that everything is 2.5/2.6mm thick, which may not be a bad thing as Jilles Groskamp uses 2.5mm bottom deck a lot!
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:11 PM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
could you PLs add some pics ...
also waiting for your race report
Well you wanted a race report..........................

I practiced for 3-4 mins before the race using HPI Gold springs front and Silver rear and the car was sliding all over the place, on and off throttle. I wasnt particularly worried as this was its first run. I thought the first thing i'll check would be the diff and sure enough it was mainly that. (Too tight).

First heat - lap 3, hit the barrier not very hard and the car felt crap from then on. The front driveshaft had bent LOL! - It was really bent and also damaged the solid axle joint it sits in so basically event over! - Being not too downhearted, I was told before that the thing I needed to replace first were the alluminium cvds. - Seeing just how weak they are, id just replace the front and rear ones. 44m front, 42mm rear. They're priced at about 10 dollars a pair for the driveshafts without axles (which the supplied seem good enough) and about 6 dollars for the rebuild parts, so its not too bad.

One thing I will say is that the car did a 13.8 laptime on one of those 3 laps and the week before that was my fastest with the xray T2 throughout the whole meeting! - So in 3 shaky and uncomfortable few laps I did a time what I did with car that I knew well and had confidence with! - The fake is fragile but its got huge potencial.
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:18 PM   #314
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Originally Posted by Peet14 View Post
Hi! My name is Peter, im new in this forum. I live in Hungary... Sory for my bad english : )
When we first talked about the car, in Hungary there was a little scandal... The hungarian tamiya team said: its a shit, its a copy bla bla....
I wanna buy one. I red this topic its very good: )
I know what i need to change first in the car.
I have a question: Why i need to change the damper cap? i know its smaller than the tamiya 416 damper cap. But its just design ? Or not? is is important?

Looking forward to your kind response

Peter
After the problems I had tonight, change the cvds to steel straight away!
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:22 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
what I ended up doing was using some pliars and "ovaling" the shape of
the spring pre-load collar so that the threads would catch the shock body.
If you measure the outside diamater of the shock body and the inside diamater of the pre-load collar, you will find they are the same and wont' catch.

By pinching the collar, you "oval" the circle collar and it will catch. Yes
it will still be easy to adjust.
The funny thing for me, is that I didnt have your problem in this case! - They adjust very nicely and are only fractionally tighter. I suppose this is what happens when there are no manufacturing inspections!
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