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Old 03-10-2011, 05:14 AM   #991
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Originally Posted by lochness42 View Post
http://www.hpieurope.com/instruction...&partNo=102852
everything is in manual. to FDR for silver can - I don't really know -> hopefully someone else will answer that
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FDR for the F 10th is 1:1 direct drive mate
Thanks for the info, appreciated
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Old 03-18-2011, 04:59 AM   #992
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I have a great deal on a F10?
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...10-roller.html
Never mind, SOLD

Last edited by THG; 03-18-2011 at 01:21 PM. Reason: Sold it!!
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Old 04-10-2011, 09:54 AM   #993
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Did a little experimenting with the F10 and found an additional solution for anyone wanting to run foams.
The obvious problem with HPI's foam tire rear axle/ diff combo is that it has an aluminum axle. It just bends way too easy, and the only way to get a replacement is to buy the ENTIRE axle diff assembly. Very exspensive.

My solution is to run a Tamiya F104 rear axle, it might cost the same as the HPI one initially, but at least you can buy replacement axles individually.

The only modifications you need to make are to the plastic ride height inserts. The stock HPI uses a 3/8" x 1/4" bearing, the tamiya axle uses a 10mm x 6mm bearing. Luckily 3/8" (=9.525mm) is smaller than 10mm, so you just need to bore them out about a .5mm to fit the bearings.



After that the axle should just drop right in place





Heres a shot with the Stock F104 Pro wheels on it.


This car handles great on the option rubber tires, and I really want to continue running it. My problem seems to be all the slop in the front end, its killing me on the straight, I can't get it to track straight consistantly at all. Im adjusting my trim the whole time I'm driving it. Does anybody have any tips to get the whole front end tighter?
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:27 PM   #994
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Are you running toe in or out on the front? I had some pretty good succes with toe out.

And, take a look at your front wing. If you ask me, the way it's angled creates lift instead of downforce. Once you look at it, you'll see what i mean. I actually cut that part off.
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Old 04-10-2011, 04:17 PM   #995
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Are you running toe in or out on the front? I had some pretty good succes with toe out.

And, take a look at your front wing. If you ask me, the way it's angled creates lift instead of downforce. Once you look at it, you'll see what i mean. I actually cut that part off.
I'm running toe in at the moment, but I'll give it some toe out and see if that helps a little. Thanks.

I know what you mean about the wing, I stacked a few washers under one of the screws to get it angled down instead of way up.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:49 PM   #996
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Default exotek equipped formula 10 for sale

i've got an exotek and yeah racing equipped HPI F-1 car that's for sale. PM if interested. comes complete and ready to race.
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:23 AM   #997
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...................
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:07 AM   #998
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A quick update on the F104 rear axle. I probably should have done some measuring before I posted up that its a direct fit. The overall width of the axle for the F104 and F10 are close, as are the motor pods. But what I failed to notice until I bolted up the wheels and noticed was that the HPI motor pod is shifted about 5mm more to the left than the F104.
The simple fix was to trim 5mm off of the left spacer and add it to the right side, but now the issue is that my pinion gear is at the very end of the motor shaft, not ideal.
But after those minor tweaks I can confirm that it does in fact work so at least it's a step in the right direction.

I'll try to get a few pics of the change.
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:27 AM   #999
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anyone have any info on the option bridgestone rubber tires?
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:52 AM   #1000
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anyone have any info on the option bridgestone rubber tires?
The "S" option Bridgestone tires? They rock. Buy them and put the stock tires in your tool box.
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:03 AM   #1001
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The "S" option Bridgestone tires? They rock. Buy them and put the stock tires in your tool box.
I agree with Pejota, they are fantastic. Ditch the stockers.
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:47 AM   #1002
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anyone have any info on the option bridgestone rubber tires?
What about the tires from RIDE ?
If you have chance, try these:

#24005 H1 Medium Front tire with sponge inner
#24007 H1 Medium Rear tire with sponge inner
or
#24008 S1 Super Soft Front tire with sponge inner
#24010 S1 Super Soft Rear tire with sponge inner

With #25002 and #25003 for respectively front and rear and wheels.

They work great too !
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Old 04-23-2011, 07:52 AM   #1003
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thanks for the info. how about gear diff vs. ball diff?
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:46 AM   #1004
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TMO, the gear diff is ok to start with. A bit of shock oil to lubricate the bevel gears etc, and it will last for a few hours.
Keep the right amount of play to limit the "crunchy noise" using the M4 nut inside the right wheel axle.

But the ball diff will be a great upgrade as it will give a much smoother action. Maintenance will be very important tho.
Make sure the 2 diff plates are perfectly flat and polished (out of the box or the blister, they're not perfectly flat). You can use successively 800, 1000 and 1200 sand paper and finally get them shiny with a polishing compound.
A bit of Associated Stealth grease on the balls and diff plates and you will have THE perfect diff !

I personally kept the standart stainless steel rear axle to keep a bit of weight on the rear. The alu version seems to get easily bent... The orange motor alu bulkhead option is really necessary to increase the stiffess, improve the heat exchange and to keep a constant gear clearance mesh. I had a bad surprise once, not twice !! the other options are secondary... ...but look hell nice !!

Cheers
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:38 PM   #1005
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This car handles great on the option rubber tires, and I really want to continue running it. My problem seems to be all the slop in the front end, its killing me on the straight, I can't get it to track straight consistantly at all. Im adjusting my trim the whole time I'm driving it. Does anybody have any tips to get the whole front end tighter?
I solved this little trouble with an 3mm O-ring placed on each ends of the steering linkage (the long one connected on the servo horn only), right between the plastic ball end and the ball stud. Once compressed, the O-rings "absorbed" the extra play. The left and right steering linkages are left w/o anything and even with a moderate play, the car goes absolutely straight.

Give it a try !
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