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Old 12-21-2010, 05:09 PM   #916
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Agreed. At Horsham, the F104W type of cars are starting to win over the traditional F103 cars. In my opinion, it's the 104 style battery layout that is making the difference on that high-bite carpet. It would seem fair to allow any tire/rim up to the traditional F103/104W width, even if that means cutting off a few mm from WGT tires/rims. We used to do that back in the day when RC10s were used for paved oval racing since pancar tires were so readily available and the aftermarket hadn't caught up with the concept of using an off-road buggy on-road.
Greg, Larry flat out spanked us last weekend running a "normal"
f104.(As to be expected).

Cornell and I tested them back to back and the 104w is far easier to drive but the 103 is putting down faster lap times... We think it's maintaining more speed in the corners.
I am against the "pan car" tire thing as I think it puts the car too far out of scale.There are plenty of places to buy 103 foams now anyway.

I would like to see a "f1" foam tire Hpi car at Horsham as we now have all makes and models running very close lap times.Especially one with Mikes chassis under it.
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:14 AM   #917
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Anyone know a good place to get the HPI rubber wheels and tires??
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:15 AM   #918
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Tower has the Bridgestone Soft tires in stock right now... but not the wheels.... go figure.
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Old 12-31-2010, 06:19 AM   #919
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Bought my hpi rubber tires and wheels at Elite in Odessa.
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:24 AM   #920
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Anyone know a good place to get the HPI rubber wheels and tires??
Dave has rims and tires
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:30 AM   #921
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Im looking in from the outside really thinking about a f1 car. i drove a hpi with silver can motor and lipo at are local track. it did have soft upgraded rubber tires it was a handfull tto drive with the small lipo he had in it. just not sure if i want to take the dive in.
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:37 PM   #922
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I've just been practicing up at the local track with mine for the past month or so and it's a blast to drive. I quickly found out that the aluminum rear axle is a bad idea, and went back to the stock steel one. I already broke my front C type wing so I've since switched back to the stock front wing. I've been getting better and better and a lot more consistant with it up until the last couple times up at the track, it's been very inconsistant. I had a rear wheel that had a noticeable wobble to it but everytime I looked it over I couldn't find anything wrong with the wheel, so I would bolt it back up and it would be good for a few laps then start to wobble again. Well it finally took a large hit to the boards and broke through the hex area.

I'm certain that it has been cracked for quite a while and has been the main reason for such an inconsistant car the last few times I've drove it.

I just glued up some new wheels and tires but haven't drove it yet. I was giving the car a once over and noticed my stock T-bar was also cracked. I have the aftermarket T-bars from yeah racing and I was just curious which one would be a better choice. Stock is 1.5mm thick, the yeah racing ones are 1.4mm, and 1.6mm thick. I've had some issues traction rolling as well, so would it be better to go with the softer T-bar, or the stiffer one?

I just finished up my new body as well so I thought I would share some pictures. It's a stock F104 body finished off with Tamiya's flat clear on the outside. Just thought I would try something different. Enjoy the pics







A few body off shots. I stole the threaded damper pad post from my F104 so I could have an easier adjustment.





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Old 01-11-2011, 07:21 AM   #923
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Default Link chassis

Any chance that there's a mini-Lipo only link chassis in the works from Exotek?
That would be so sweet.
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Old 01-11-2011, 07:49 AM   #924
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Any chance that there's a mini-Lipo only link chassis in the works from Exotek?
That would be so sweet.
just buy the mini lipo locator????
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Old 01-11-2011, 08:51 AM   #925
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Default Link chassis

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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
just buy the mini lipo locator????
No, not just the mini-Lipo battery holder but a full-blown link chassis like the one that's available for the F104.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:18 AM   #926
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Hi,

It would require an all new front end because the battery would have to go down the middle and that is just not in the cards sorry. I think theFX10 works superb as is. Especially on foams!
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A picture with your post, when trouble shooting, will probably get more rctech help than without...
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Old 01-11-2011, 11:26 PM   #927
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Hi,

It would require an all new front end because the battery would have to go down the middle and that is just not in the cards sorry. I think theFX10 works superb as is. Especially on foams!
I was hoping that the mini-Lipo would be able to fit between the links...
What about the Super F1's rear suspension? That could work, right?
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:20 PM   #928
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Default new axle

we are just finished new steel rear axle for F10 foam set.
It's heavier than stock aluminium, but much more stronger, and also it's 15mm longer than stock, so I can use axle spacers and use f104 rear wheels. next step will be carbon fiber axle, i think

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Old 01-20-2011, 10:12 AM   #929
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Default Help: FX10 Setup

I use to race touring car, but new to F1 or 1/12 chassic

Just got my FX10 Chassis yesterday.

Tested with Turngy 4000 30c Lipo(249g), Tamiya 104bk esc, Tamiya sport-turned motor, orignal pinon 17T, Spur 75T.

1. My FX10 always force to the right on sudden pickup from stationary position.
Is this normal?

2. How to do weight balance on fx10?
Should I do individual weight balance for the front and rear?
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Old 01-21-2011, 04:50 AM   #930
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1. My FX10 always force to the right on sudden pickup from stationary position.
Is this normal?

2. How to do weight balance on fx10?
Should I do individual weight balance for the front and rear?
2. I'm always balance rear pod at first. next step - attach rear pod to the chassis and balance whole car.
1. No. You should use tweak screws on front t-bar mount to adjust t-bar tweak.
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