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Old 02-16-2010, 03:42 PM
  #11326  
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Default Toe to toe

Originally Posted by IndyRC_Racer View Post
I thought the issue with rear toe was related to the original chassis, but that they fixed that in later versions of the car. I have a newer chassis and it doesn't seem to have that issue with rear toe.

I know my original racer chassis (without drop screw tabs) did look like it had uneven toe-in.
I have three chassis: one is a 190mm VTA and that's off about a half degree. The 200mm is for RCGT and that's the one that's off a full degree. I have a bare chassis that I haven't checked yet. All have droop screw tabs. I might try to swap the hubs from side to side to see if that makes any difference. Then the arms, then ...
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Old 02-17-2010, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jhberger View Post
I have three chassis: one is a 190mm VTA and that's off about a half degree. The 200mm is for RCGT and that's the one that's off a full degree. I have a bare chassis that I haven't checked yet. All have droop screw tabs. I might try to swap the hubs from side to side to see if that makes any difference. Then the arms, then ...
Let me spare you some time, I did it and the degree's still there, on the left if I remember well. Thats just how the car is and of course you'll never feel it. This car is full of little asymmetric things such a the C hubs, the rear toe in, the chassis which is twisted right out of the box... etc. Thats just something you learn to live with.
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Old 02-17-2010, 06:08 AM
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I have been through many a Tc3 chassis. None were warped... but i havent bought a Tc3 tub in over 5 years. Maybe the newer ones are messed up because the mold is getting old? Dunno.

The rear toe issue was in the first generation of chassis/rear hubs. Thats been "fixed" for a LONG time. Get a countersink bit from Lowes and "readjust" your chassis holes to move the rear mount over a little. Its really a small, easily fixed issue.

For a little trivia... can anyone list the factory physical chassis changes in the lifespan of the Tc3? Ill kick the first, since its already been mentioned.

1) Droop screw tabs
2)
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:48 AM
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Sorry but in my experience every single tc3 chassis is tweaked, no matter the generation. The motor corner is lifted up. You probably tried this with a naked chassis. Of course the chassis itself in decently close to dead flat on a glass plate, if you have removed the injection blurr below.

Now install the cam+ clamp, and even with the slightest tightening, just enough to prevent the cam from moving, your chassis is tweaked. With the car put on 4 scales, try to do this and the weight changes are just scary.

Sooo, to answer your trivia... I'd say

1) droop tabs

2) the "wall" around the motor was half the height of the chassis on the first versions. Later it was the whole height of the chassis.
3) Ugly plastic scar on the plastic between every battery slots, on late versions.
4) perhaps a little molded "shim" on one or both sides of the motor mount, where the clamp comes? not sur about this one.

the inner reinforcements ( "walls" ) have also varied along the years...

It'd be funny to compare the first prod Tc3 with their latest batch. Not that many parts would be identical...
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Old 02-17-2010, 07:52 AM
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where did you see that the toe in diff had been "fixed" ? To my knowledge it was on purpose, to compensate for torque steer, so I don't see the point in solving something that's not actually a problem. I have one on the latest tc3s and I would say there is still a 0.75 degree difference L to R. It's always been the same no matter the parts I use, recent or old.
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Old 02-17-2010, 12:27 PM
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Default Torksters

Compensating for torque steer is a possible explanation. Seems a little bassackwards, but it might be a clever way to achieve the result. I know some guys who were at Associated back then. I'll pose the question.

I've observed that a hot motor tweaks that chassis pretty noticeably, so the half-degree of toe difference probably becomes a minor issue.
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Old 02-17-2010, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jhberger View Post
I've observed that a hot motor tweaks that chassis pretty noticeably, so the half-degree of toe difference probably becomes a minor issue.

true, the last races I made with the car I had a screwdriver in my pocket , 2 holes in the body and after my heat I would unscrew the clamp to avoid this; while the fan stayed on to help cooling faster during my marshalling. aaah, memories...
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:19 AM
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I have already checked the Associated site, but...Does anyone have a good starting set up for VTA on carpet that they are willing to share?

Anything would help.

Thanks
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:14 AM
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Default Starting points

Originally Posted by CSeils View Post
I have already checked the Associated site, but...Does anyone have a good starting set up for VTA on carpet that they are willing to share?

Anything would help.

Thanks
Depends on the carpet -- the grip levels vary a lot. The manual standard setup is a good baseline. If you don't have a manual, the attached isn't far off -- don't worry about using the rear shock tower up front. Having the full set of Associated springs is almost a requisite to getting a good setup. Red up front and gold in the rear if it's grippy; gold up front and blue in the rear if it's not. In VTA, the TC3 seems to like harder springs up front than in the rear, but not by much. Use 1 of camber all around (no more). Between 5 and 6 on ride height. 5-6 droop in front; 4-5 in back. No bars. That should get you going. Tire sauce is a big deal with the VTA spec tires. Put it on early and let it sit about 20 minutes; work it into the tires with a shop rag and let it sit some more; then do that all over again right after you run; throw the shop rag away at the end of the day.

BTW, you still doing those nifty stickers?
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:52 AM
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Thanks

and, yes I still do.
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:18 PM
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I was having some issues w/ steering as well. Rather than converting to the Nitro setup, I used my trusty dremel and ground down material in and around the steering rack. Added a small washer under it for shim, and it works like butter.

I converted mine over for drifting. I love the way it feels.



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Old 02-23-2010, 12:48 PM
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Who makes the legal VTA bodies, anyone have a link .. is it on ROAR. I have not been to the track in a long time, but I am going to use my TC3 when I go, so all I really need now is a VTA body to do up.

James
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:14 PM
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Default body shopping

Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Who makes the legal VTA bodies, anyone have a link .. is it on ROAR. I have not been to the track in a long time, but I am going to use my TC3 when I go, so all I really need now is a VTA body to do up.

James
The USVTA rules list the legal bodies:

http://www.usvintagetransam.com/rules/index.html
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Old 03-01-2010, 06:54 PM
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Sorry if this has already been answered but i just bought a tc3 and was wondering what size body does it use and also what offset wheels?

i want to set it up to run th rcgt class
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Old 03-01-2010, 07:27 PM
  #11340  
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190mm body with o ofter wheels

or 200mm body with 6mm offset wheels
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