CSeils

iTrader: (54)

I'll take some pictures. The only way I think to fix this is if the leads are at 90° from the solder points.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

is it the sensor lead you are having issues with or the power leads?

I am using a 4300ss and as stated the sensor leads are hardwired in.

If it looks like the votex linked, then you just need a sensor lead where the wires come out at 90deg from the connector- that should not be TOO hard.

But the pictures should help.

James

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

my TC3's are just as good as most anything in TransAm racing(won plenty this summer), and can win with it in 13.5 TC....my batteries range from Orion 4800-3200 and SMC 4000 and they all fit perfectly...Ive run Novak 17.5 bl and I put the rx on the servo for more space..didnt change the car ride at all....here are some pics of my rides...cya

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

Okay, here are the pictures of my motor problem.

Just wondering what position other manufactures have for their sensor plugs. Novak is not a problem, looking for other alternatives.

Thanks.

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

ahh now i see. Looks like its time to get the dremel out.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Show us the front of the motor - where the shaft is.. is there not multi screw holes so that you could rotate the can 90° and then have the solder tabs and the sensor connector about even with the top of the bulkhead?

Then at worst.. all you would have to do is dremel the bulkhead down a few MM to clear a tab or the connector???

NO?

James

CSeils

iTrader: (54)

Tried that. I'm looking into getting a motor that has the leads 90° from the solder tabs. I have a couple of companies that I'm looking into. Either that or I'll pick up a Novak 17.5.

heretic

i suggest you use a dremel

heretic

OR BUY A GM SPEEDO that runs sensorless !!!

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

sensorless + 17.5 = BAD.

high turn brushless motors do not produce enoguh back EMF for sensorless to work correctly, thus you will cog. BAD.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

I just got that Hobbywing 9t 35a combo.. it is sensorless and I am very happy with the smoothness.. they also have a 13t but dont go down to 17.5... if you are running somewhere where its a spec motor.. then you will need something approved anyway.. and there are not many if any approved SL motors.

James

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

low turn sensorless is fine, high turn sensorless is bad.

Karg

Hey guys, I just got out my old factory team TC3 I had since I was like, 10 (I am 18 now). The car has no upgrades. I am using a stock motor, forgot how many turns, a Novak Super Rooster speed control, and a fairly nice servo, I remember it being around $150. I am not sure what is in now a days, so I was wondering what would be some good upgrades to do to it. The car has been barely driven and everything is in good condition (except for the servo arm I just broke, lol). While on that topic, what is a decent servo arm I should buy?
Thanks.

Bikerbob

iTrader: (11)

Well what are you doing with it Karg? what is your purpose? TC racing? carpet? outdoor asphalt? Drifiting? its all different.

As far as the arm goes, the kit one is pretty good for 90%.. you say you broke it? maybe that gives an idea of what your doing with it. Places that sell Nitro cars will have aluminum arms. I run hitec servos and they make an kit of arms in hard derilin (plastic) that I like.

All factory parts are still available from AE. Do you have the early version without the droop screws? If so.. then it limits the range the car is "good" for. Foam tire racing on a non-droop car is a nightmare.

James

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

like was said, depends on what you use it for...my TC3 was a rtr(pic above) and its great for Trans-am....Im also using a TC3 BMI car for touring

here is a little help...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...acing-100.html