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Old 12-10-2005, 12:14 PM   #10711
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more reason to drive better
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Old 12-10-2005, 02:03 PM   #10712
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Old 12-11-2005, 02:43 PM   #10713
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whats the best and easy way to free up a TC3 drive train without spending loads on new parts and stuff?
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Old 12-11-2005, 03:37 PM   #10714
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best way to free it up is to rebuild.
Strip it down, clean bearings, lube bearings, shim diffs, and shim outdrives.

thats all there is to it.
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Old 12-11-2005, 04:05 PM   #10715
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Make sure the diffs are free in the housings. When you turn the housing upside down, the diff should fall out. You may have to grind on the side of the housing where the bearings ride to get the needed play. Then shim accordinally. Remove all the inside (covered) bearings seals & make sure the thick grease is washed out & reoil with thin oil like Royal oil. Don't over tighten the top diff housing screws or the rear diff output saddle screws.
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Old 12-11-2005, 08:25 PM   #10716
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Thanks for the help on the nuts. I ended up just installing my new ones backward and the car worked great. We have a 5mm chassis height rule, so I had to adjust my setup on my car to meet that. I am using the factory setup out of the AE book with the exception of the sway bars (on order) and now the chassis height. I ended up having a lot of trouble with traction rolling the car after I raised it up. I only put tire stuff on the rears for the main, but still had problems with it rolling when I tightened up my line. I would like to know what causes this so I can figure out how to correct it. I am sure I could get an answer, but I would rather know the how and why please.

Thanks
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Old 12-11-2005, 09:58 PM   #10717
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your welcome

and well your car has body roll right

so i would stiffen up the chassis and supension (the cause is the oppisite of what i said)

after that put the tire SAUCE on both or dont even put any

another reason is that you are running on high grip sufaces so do the same as what i said (siffen chassis and suspension)

oh ya what are you running?
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:39 AM   #10718
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cheers guys ive taken the one side outta the bearings and flushed already but i got a week until i race so ill spend a good day rebuilding the monkey
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Old 12-12-2005, 10:39 AM   #10719
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Anthony, thanks for the info. So soft suspension gives body roll which turns the car over.

I am running touring car stock. I am also using the V2 Stratus. I have run mostly dirt oval so getting the car to turn left isn't too bad, both ways is more difficult.

I tried my car in warm ups and it was loose when I had no suce so I went back to putting it on the inner half of my fronts and full rear. I didn't have trouble till after I raised the ride height when I found out there was a 5mm minimum. I didn't think a .5mm would make so much difference. I also didn't have time to get the car back on the tweak board.

When I stiffen the suspension. Would you do it incrementaly around the car, ie go up a spring rate front and rear?

Would a sway bar not help with body roll by limiting how much the arms move?

Thanks
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Old 12-12-2005, 03:09 PM   #10720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmintimidator
Anthony, thanks for the info. So soft suspension gives body roll which turns the car over.

I am running touring car stock. I am also using the V2 Stratus. I have run mostly dirt oval so getting the car to turn left isn't too bad, both ways is more difficult.

I tried my car in warm ups and it was loose when I had no suce so I went back to putting it on the inner half of my fronts and full rear. I didn't have trouble till after I raised the ride height when I found out there was a 5mm minimum. I didn't think a .5mm would make so much difference. I also didn't have time to get the car back on the tweak board.

When I stiffen the suspension. Would you do it incrementaly around the car, ie go up a spring rate front and rear?

Would a sway bar not help with body roll by limiting how much the arms move?

Thanks
Daryll


a stock roll bar for stock rubber would be a good next change to the car. it stops the the front end from having to much roll in the corner, there by keeps the car more planted/level in the corner and keeps up corner speed and doesnt make the car push out(mid corner and exit).. if u do spring rates, going up a rate in the front and rear keeping the front balanced and the rear balanced spring wise is something else to play with(what springs are you running?). also try different pistons and shock oils. for rubber i normaly ran #2 pistons and 40 weight AE oil all around on a med grip carpet track or a 40F-35R to get some more rear traction, all depends on the track condition.

if this doesnt make sense pm me and ill give u my rubber starting setup for a dual diff car on carpet.
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Old 12-12-2005, 04:17 PM   #10721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmintimidator
Anthony, thanks for the info. So soft suspension gives body roll which turns the car over.

I am running touring car stock. I am also using the V2 Stratus. I have run mostly dirt oval so getting the car to turn left isn't too bad, both ways is more difficult.

I tried my car in warm ups and it was loose when I had no suce so I went back to putting it on the inner half of my fronts and full rear. I didn't have trouble till after I raised the ride height when I found out there was a 5mm minimum. I didn't think a .5mm would make so much difference. I also didn't have time to get the car back on the tweak board.

When I stiffen the suspension. Would you do it incrementaly around the car, ie go up a spring rate front and rear?

Would a sway bar not help with body roll by limiting how much the arms move?

Thanks
Daryll
your welcome

and well i think lazyboy ansewr your ?(s)
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Old 12-12-2005, 04:43 PM   #10722
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I am running foams on carpet

Front:
F+2
4 deg caster
0 toe in
-1.5 camber
middle hole in tower
only 1 choice in my current lower arms
70 wt
#2 piston
white spring
Jaco Double Purple (only inside 1/2 has traction comound)
ride height 5mm
droop 6
Camber link:upper and inward

Rear:
R+3-0
-2 deg camber
middle hole in tower
only 1 choice in my arms
50wt
#2 piston
red springs
Jaco Purple (complete coverage on traction compound)
ride height 5mm
droop 4
camber link: lower and inward tower
closet to the wheel on the carrier

wheelbase short.... opps mistake

I really appreciate you guys giving me the why to go along with the fix. Getting the latest greatest setup from associated is great to get you in the ball park, but when the track changes, it's nice to know how to go about making the changes and doing it methodically.

Thanks again
Daryll
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:07 AM   #10723
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What is a TC3.5?

I just put TC4 arms (drilled out mounts), castorblocks, hubs, towers and braces on my trusty IRS TC3. I love the car! All this make it a TC3.5? Are there more TC4 parts I should put on my car that will make it better?

Thanks
Rod
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Old 12-13-2005, 09:29 AM   #10724
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hello fellow tc3 owners! hehehe
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:41 AM   #10725
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the new steering rack design? I tried to fit it to my blue warpspeed TC3 but it ment i would have to re drill it and i am not doing that i haven't even scratched it. Shame i dont use it any more
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