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Old 01-22-2002, 03:30 PM
  #796  
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Yea I will recheck my steering EPA that sounds like a real possibility as I dont really remember hitting anything when this happened. Well at least that hard anyway. I am pretty sure I had them set up correctly but may have been off a bit on one side left/right. but it will have to wait for a new servo anyway. I may try that hitec 525mg you mentioned.
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Old 01-22-2002, 06:58 PM
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Bump steer makes the car inconsistent in a turn. Most often you want zero bump. Which means when the suspension is compressed or rebounded the toe in does not change. If anything you would want to have a little toe out on compression but never toe in. This also keeps the car from wandering and darting exiting a corner. Hope that helps. On real cars we will check the bump steer to the 0.001 if possible.
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Old 01-23-2002, 08:19 AM
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SamIAm is correct. Basically when the suspension compresses, the toe will change from zero to positive or negative toe. This sucks bigtime through bumps...

Wolf- yes. The little spacers that lengthen or shorten wheelbase will work. Instead of 1 .060" spacer, you could use 2 .100" spacers, or 3 .100" instead of one .030" spacer. Same thing.
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Old 01-23-2002, 01:00 PM
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Tony .100 is > (greater than) .060. Would you really want to use 2 .100s in place of a .060?
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Old 01-23-2002, 04:06 PM
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Maybe someone can help me out....I'm running on Ozite w/rubber tires(cs22's w/fx2 from paragon)..my problem is in the tight turns...the rear end acts like it has too much traction,it hops a bit and then it just comes around(i guess cause the wheels are in the air?)..its pretty good everywhere else.....also when it doesnt hop the inside rear tire is off the ground......any suggestions.....heres my setup...

front....80wt.-#3piston/yellow spring/sway bar/2 caster/shock outside hole/link-up and out/5 droop/5mm ride/

rear....70 wt./#3 piston/copper spring/no sway/link up and in/shock inside hole/3 droop/5mm. ride

all inner suspension blocks are kit blocks......

thanks
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Old 01-23-2002, 04:06 PM
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how good are aftermarket front oneways (like the one from megatech) compared to the one made by associated? the aftermarket one is cheaper but will it cause me problems? thanks for any info
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Old 01-23-2002, 11:18 PM
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Originally posted by marvi
how good are aftermarket front oneways (like the one from megatech) compared to the one made by associated? the aftermarket one is cheaper but will it cause me problems? thanks for any info
The most sensitive part on a one-way are the bearings, if the bearings are cheap, the one-way, cannnot perform as intended. I tested the GPM center one-way and it give up at the fourth pack rather than the original, more than 200 battery packs and is performing like new.

I prefeer to pay the extra bucks and get the TA part. On the long time has proven to be a high quality part.
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Old 01-23-2002, 11:24 PM
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Originally posted by Dragon Slayer
the rear end acts like it has too much traction,it hops a bit and then it just comes around(i guess cause the wheels are in the air?)..its pretty good everywhere else.....also when it doesnt hop the inside rear tire is off the ground......any suggestions.....heres my setup...
Try to put the front shocks on the center hole and try to put a lighter oil with a little more droop (less ground clearance) rear.

Have you tried to vary the quantity of fx2 stuff on the wheels? I've tested with Red Dot and changing the quantity of stuff in the wheels it changes the grip a lot.
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Old 01-24-2002, 02:26 AM
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Originally posted by Corse-R


The most sensitive part on a one-way are the bearings, if the bearings are cheap, the one-way, cannnot perform as intended. I tested the GPM center one-way and it give up at the fourth pack rather than the original, more than 200 battery packs and is performing like new.

I prefeer to pay the extra bucks and get the TA part. On the long time has proven to be a high quality part.
That's very TRUE. I never put on any GPM stuff on my R/C cars ! I just don't understand why ppl like to put the GPM "Blue" stuff on their cars ......
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Old 01-24-2002, 03:57 AM
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

As I both sell and race RC cars I have had quite a bit of experience with one ways.

TC3. The actual one way bearing on the factory one way is perfectly up to the job. The weak spot is the outdrives, which have a habbit of breaking.

MR4. The problem here has been the actual one way bearings that have been too small, and therefore not upto it. I have never had an MR4 outdrive snap the way the TC3 ones do, but their actual bearings go with monotonous regularity.

In fact Yokomo have now produced a larger diameter one way bearing, which should do the trick....we hope.

I have used the Fastrax one way on the TC3. simply because it is half the price. Now this one has even bigger bearings, and I have not experienced any problems with it. So much so that I converted a TC3 one to fit my MR4, and again had no problems.

Therefore, whilst I agree entirely with Corse R that the bearing is the main item on these units, it has not been the cause of problems on TC3s.

Corse R, I see you're not too far from our country. Fancy doing an event in Malta some time?

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 01-24-2002, 05:15 AM
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Originally posted by johnbull
TC3. The actual one way bearing on the factory one way is perfectly up to the job. The weak spot is the outdrives, which have a habbit of breaking.

Corse R, I see you're not too far from our country. Fancy doing an event in Malta some time?
Ummm, this year the chapter of expenses for me is almost 'full' I plan to go to the Euros at Lostallo and if all wents good to see the Euro Off-Road Champs on England (Magazine report) and going on July to the Trofeo Iberico at Sintra (Portugal)... I'm gotting a house with my girlfriend and she don't sees me not so good going out and spending lots of bucks (shhh!!!.... If someday knows really what are the costs of R/C stuff... she kills me for sure)

This year, the International Reedy is held at about 25 Miles from house (I'm awaiting for August, to be 'really smoked' by the big guns of the TC (yes... can I be more 'masochist')).

TPhalen: I need a good setup for a NTC3 for a friend. Have you got some that can serve for a starting point?
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Old 01-24-2002, 12:19 PM
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Originally posted by TPhalen
Wolf- yes. The little spacers that lengthen or shorten wheelbase will work. Instead of 1 .060" spacer, you could use 2 .100" spacers, or 3 .100" instead of one .030" spacer. Same thing.
Oops...thanks Rob

Let's rephase that....

2 .060" instead of 1 .100" or 3 .030" instead of 1 .100".

That's better. It's close enough...
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Old 01-24-2002, 04:08 PM
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thanks for the replies i've been using a GPM center oneway since i got the car about 1 1/2 years ago with no problems in both stock and mod. i want to try a front onway, but from your replies, i guess i'll have to save up to get an associated front oneway. i was looking at the one from megatech because its about half the price of the one from associated.
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Old 01-24-2002, 04:34 PM
  #809  
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Default Front one-ways

I mentioned this before, but I'll tell you guys again-

I designed a tool to replace the bearings in practically any oneway housing and had it machined by a local machine shop. It was a little expensive to have just one made, but I had to be sure it worked. Anyway, it works great and I can replace the bearings with the original torrington bearings that came in the housing from the factory. The bearings cost about $9 each, but shipping would be minimal so it's definately cheaper to fix them than to replace them. I have replaced the bearings in my Yok and TC3 oneways and they're just as good as the origianal. You can get my address on my website if you need it- the link is in my signature. I quit pursuing the sales of repairing them because there was some interest at first, then nobody seemed interested
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Old 01-24-2002, 04:44 PM
  #810  
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Default GPM one way

Just got the GPM oneway in the mail wow not a single instruction just a sealed plastic bag. Looking at it seems to go in the rear, figured it would go in the front before I saw it.

Anyone got any tips for this unit?
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