TC3 Forum
#7726
I use carb cleaner for cleaning my bearings and motors. It seems to work really well and it is available from auto stores at a very low price.
#7727
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I have used CRC Brake Clean in the past and some of the other things mentioned here. Just make sure you have good ventilation and wear gloves as most of those chemicals are pretty nasty to the skin.
#7728
Thanks for the quick reply. The reason I ask is because we use it on the Go-Kart, so we have plenty!!
Just blueprinted my transmission (snow outside, so school is out ). Transmission feels a lot freer already, and I haven't tested it yet.
Cheers
Crashmaster
Just blueprinted my transmission (snow outside, so school is out ). Transmission feels a lot freer already, and I haven't tested it yet.
Cheers
Crashmaster
#7729
Just one other question. It's about upgrade. I currently have the Racer kit, and I was wondering what your oppinion is on me either getting a new speed (currently have an LRP with a 14t limit) so as I can run 12 turn motors (national limit ) or to get the graphite components kit for my car. The track we race on is medium traction, smooth tarmac, sometimes dusty though as its near a field (see pic).
http://www.btinternet.com/~i.colby/img1.gif
Cheers, again
Crashmaster
http://www.btinternet.com/~i.colby/img1.gif
Cheers, again
Crashmaster
#7730
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
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Originally posted by Crashmaster
Thanks for the quick reply. The reason I ask is because we use it on the Go-Kart, so we have plenty!!
Just blueprinted my transmission (snow outside, so school is out ). Transmission feels a lot freer already, and I haven't tested it yet.
Cheers
Crashmaster
Thanks for the quick reply. The reason I ask is because we use it on the Go-Kart, so we have plenty!!
Just blueprinted my transmission (snow outside, so school is out ). Transmission feels a lot freer already, and I haven't tested it yet.
Cheers
Crashmaster
#7731
Nice track!
As if smoking isn't dangerous enough already
The graphite parts certainly bring the TC3 alive and make it more responsive. That said, even the racer spec car is pretty stiff compared to some on the market.
Coming from an off road background (both 1/8th Rally X and 1/10th EP Buggies), I had to give tourers a try to see what all the fuss was about. I started with the TC3 Racer spec car and was glad I did. It didn't cost much, never went wrong and was competetive at club level from the start. I beat loads of guys with team and factory team cars too Which kinda proves that you don't actually need to have all singing all dancing bells and whistles kit to do well. All you actually need is thumbs.
Well that was then. I enjoyed touring cars so much that before long our whole house was full of them Improvements were made and my old TC3 was kept as a spare. I race mainly indoors on carpet, so graphite actually helped improve things quite a bit. If you need to do things in order;
1)Sort out your composite driveshafts first - they'll die if you use mod motors, especially the front ones. Get the AE blue alloy ones. IRS pin cushions are a good idea too.
2)You'll need a proper competition charger/discharger sooner or later, so you may as well get it now. Theres nothing going to hold you back more than half charged cells.
3)Then get the best batteries you can afford. For the money, you'd be hard pushed to beat Demon matched GP 3300s
4)Then the best ESC. I use a GT7, but LRP Q2 are supposed to be as good if not better.
5)Buy a high quality motor - the new Orion V2 motors look like the way to go.
6)Then up grade the chassis components/suspension etc
7)A competition radio like KO, or Futaba can help too - but it can take a little while to get used to new sticks. However, I swear that you can drive more smoothly with a decent radio plus extra features can help dial you car to the track.
There's so much to spend your money on, if you're on a budget it's difficult to know where to start! I hope this list helps.
As if smoking isn't dangerous enough already
The graphite parts certainly bring the TC3 alive and make it more responsive. That said, even the racer spec car is pretty stiff compared to some on the market.
Coming from an off road background (both 1/8th Rally X and 1/10th EP Buggies), I had to give tourers a try to see what all the fuss was about. I started with the TC3 Racer spec car and was glad I did. It didn't cost much, never went wrong and was competetive at club level from the start. I beat loads of guys with team and factory team cars too Which kinda proves that you don't actually need to have all singing all dancing bells and whistles kit to do well. All you actually need is thumbs.
Well that was then. I enjoyed touring cars so much that before long our whole house was full of them Improvements were made and my old TC3 was kept as a spare. I race mainly indoors on carpet, so graphite actually helped improve things quite a bit. If you need to do things in order;
1)Sort out your composite driveshafts first - they'll die if you use mod motors, especially the front ones. Get the AE blue alloy ones. IRS pin cushions are a good idea too.
2)You'll need a proper competition charger/discharger sooner or later, so you may as well get it now. Theres nothing going to hold you back more than half charged cells.
3)Then get the best batteries you can afford. For the money, you'd be hard pushed to beat Demon matched GP 3300s
4)Then the best ESC. I use a GT7, but LRP Q2 are supposed to be as good if not better.
5)Buy a high quality motor - the new Orion V2 motors look like the way to go.
6)Then up grade the chassis components/suspension etc
7)A competition radio like KO, or Futaba can help too - but it can take a little while to get used to new sticks. However, I swear that you can drive more smoothly with a decent radio plus extra features can help dial you car to the track.
There's so much to spend your money on, if you're on a budget it's difficult to know where to start! I hope this list helps.
#7732
Cheers Horatio.
I was looking at a new charger before (I only have a fixed peak 4A charger capable of charging upto 3000), but Rick Hohwart said I should get a nex ESC to run a 12 turn:
" would definitely get the ESC so you can run a 12 turn motor (assuming you have the batteries to support a 12 turn motor). The graphite parts will improve performance but not as much as going from 14 to 12 turns.
Desitions, desitions...
Wish I could win the lottery, shame I'm not 16
Cheers for your help again
Crashmaster
P.S. Cleaned the bearings out with carb cleaner, now it really spins!!
I was looking at a new charger before (I only have a fixed peak 4A charger capable of charging upto 3000), but Rick Hohwart said I should get a nex ESC to run a 12 turn:
" would definitely get the ESC so you can run a 12 turn motor (assuming you have the batteries to support a 12 turn motor). The graphite parts will improve performance but not as much as going from 14 to 12 turns.
Desitions, desitions...
Wish I could win the lottery, shame I'm not 16
Cheers for your help again
Crashmaster
P.S. Cleaned the bearings out with carb cleaner, now it really spins!!
#7733
Tech Legend
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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crashmaster Brake cleaner works good on brakes so no wonder why it works on simple grease in bearings. Brake cleaner is some harsh stuff. I bet if they tested that stuff in a lab it would be able to kill any germ or virus.
#7734
What Rick says is quite right - going from 14 to 12 will give a big jump in performance, more so than going from plastic to graphite components. Rick will be feeling pretty chuffed at the moment because the new V series motors are doing very well indeed ;o)
However, the heart of your car's power source is it's cells. You'll be surprised how much difference you'll notice between cells charged on a competition charger and those charged on a budget one. Fortunately, you can get really good chargers from Novak, LRP and Eagle that really do the business for not too much money. Get saving!! ;-) Don't get rid of your old charger though - it'll be really handy to have the option to charge up 2 packs at the same time.
Also bear in mind that 4000 and 5000 cells are looming in the horizon....
However, the heart of your car's power source is it's cells. You'll be surprised how much difference you'll notice between cells charged on a competition charger and those charged on a budget one. Fortunately, you can get really good chargers from Novak, LRP and Eagle that really do the business for not too much money. Get saving!! ;-) Don't get rid of your old charger though - it'll be really handy to have the option to charge up 2 packs at the same time.
Also bear in mind that 4000 and 5000 cells are looming in the horizon....
#7735
Lol
#7736
Carb Cleaner
Is it also safe on the electronics? Has anyone tried it? Carb cleaner here goes for around 3-4$, while the motor spray is around 6$ maybe ore now since your money to ur money is
1$US=56 pesos!!! That's huge!!!!!
Peace guys and happy racing!!!!!
1$US=56 pesos!!! That's huge!!!!!
Peace guys and happy racing!!!!!
#7737
Thats what I was thinking about the charger Horatio, as you can see from the pic of the track, it has a pretty short straight, and with my 14 (reedy), I can out power most of, if not all of the 12 turn equiped cars
Here's the thread that I asked Rick on:
http://www.team-orion.com/toptalk/sh...b=5&o=&fpart=1
Cheers
Crashmaster
Here's the thread that I asked Rick on:
http://www.team-orion.com/toptalk/sh...b=5&o=&fpart=1
Cheers
Crashmaster
#7738
Re: Carb Cleaner
Originally posted by lem2
Is it also safe on the electronics? Has anyone tried it? Carb cleaner here goes for around 3-4$, while the motor spray is around 6$ maybe ore now since your money to ur money is
1$US=56 pesos!!! That's huge!!!!!
Peace guys and happy racing!!!!!
Is it also safe on the electronics? Has anyone tried it? Carb cleaner here goes for around 3-4$, while the motor spray is around 6$ maybe ore now since your money to ur money is
1$US=56 pesos!!! That's huge!!!!!
Peace guys and happy racing!!!!!
I have cleaned servo tape off chassis and off receiver cases etc without problems - but I wouldn't recommend drenching plastic parts with the stuff. But I've liberally sprayed it on motors and it doesn't harm the plastic on the endbell.
Works good on bearings.
It works as good (if not better) than any motor cleaner Ive ever bought - only it's half the price for twice as much where I live
I've been using it for about 3 years now.
#7739
Me again,
been do'in some research, does anyone know if the CS electronic Space Charger is any good??
http://www.cs-electronic.com/CS-Prod...ce_charger.php
As ever, Cheers
Crashmaster
been do'in some research, does anyone know if the CS electronic Space Charger is any good??
http://www.cs-electronic.com/CS-Prod...ce_charger.php
As ever, Cheers
Crashmaster
#7740
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
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Charger looks pretty good to me. I read the specs and it seems like it does everything you need it to. The LRP Pulsars (Pro version) is very nice as well. Nice thing is it can be used to break in motors and to run a comm lathe. Can also discharge if need be although it is only at 10 amps which is normally not high enough to use for that purpose all the time.