berger

iTrader: (1)

I put the reciever behind the servo and my speedo at the end closest to the motor, the wires have the least distance to travel then and it is neater overall i think this way.

speedxl

damn i didnt know a cvd question had this affect thanks guys i wanted to see the oppinions out there i have been running them for a while in the rear of the car because i went through a few front cvd's and said what the hell take the aluminum one from the rear and put them up front andat the rear it dont matter.
i used to run schumacher cars and we ran the plastic ones on the rear and the steel ones upfront that got expensive replacing the steel ones. guys if you can run the plastic ones in the schumacher with a modified and they do last why shouldnt we do the same on the tc3 the composite one are cheaper and lighter i have been running them with a spool for about 2 months without a negative complain i have only broken three of them as compared to bending an axle almost every weekend with the aluminum ones and the spools dont take the abuse. we run 19t and i practice with a modified the price of the aluminum axles just aint right, you guys that are running the composites ones thats the ticket they will handle a high horspower motor just let of when you are going towards the wall. but for sure they are safe for stock and 19t

Horatio

Regarding position of electronics:

It's best to keep the receiver as far away from the power wires and motor as is possible. It reduces the chance of glitching and improves range. It's worth bearing this in mind when you have a car where there is alot of space to throw you electronics in. In the TC3 that means setting it up as Berger described - there aren't that many options available anyway!

Speedxl:

Don't you find the holes where the pins go through wear quite quickly on the composite bones? They go oval pretty quick I find. They work better outdoors - they are lighter and don't bend either. That said, I've never broken my alloy ones - yet!

Bubblestc3

shock oil, i would run like 40wt ae, that usually is a good starting point on asphault, but if this is indoor carpet then i am not the person that should be responding, but 40, then maybe silvers all the way around.

then go from there in setup(or you could try the pro's setups until you find one that you like)

and it realy does not matter where you electronics are(but the reciver likes to be away from electronical "noise" so the farther away from the motor and wires the better) that would help in glitch prevention

speedxl

horatio i have never broken a dog bone i do bend them enough to were they wobble a little but i change them when they get to the point when they touch the sway bar. as far as the hole get oval it hasnt happen yet i am not the best driver but i tend to make my equipment last longer than other guys, by months not days or weeks. when i see my car getting into trouble i tend to let off the throttle then go again i do notice that the guys theat are breaking axles are staying full noodle going into the wall knowing the cars are going to steer clear of the wall or pipe!
as for wear with the ones on the car i have 4 race weekend with about 35 runs all together (including practice) and i dont see a concern with wear.

Bubblestc3

do you guys run different parts on you TC3's?
by that i mean, like maybe different shock towers, steering systems, arms, and hubs

berger

iTrader: (1)

Just put a rear shock tower on the front the other week and i like it Used aluminum hubs, but i bent instead of snapped them so went back to the stock ones.

Dougnuts55

I am proud to say that shortly i will be having a Factory Team TC3.

C Branch

iTrader: (21)

I tried using a rear shock tower on the front this weekend, and I couldn't get the ride height low enough. I switched back to the stock front tower and it was ok again. What was I doing wrong?


Colin

ZER01

you using the new ver.2 front arms with the rear tower up front? If so you might want to cut a little off the shock ballend to drop the spring.

hobbyman_7

iTrader: (9)

Anyone running the plastic/composite outdrives or is everone running the steel ones?

speedxl

go down the thread we were talking about it earlier yes i do run them.

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Actually, I've run ALL of them, from the original steel ones, to aluminum ones(by IRS & Robinson Racing) & to the composite ones today. Granted, there is a bit more risk of breaking the composite ones, if you run stock or 19 turn I don't think the risk is that bad(& I have also run 10 turn motors with them, they seemed to hold up quite well), & I think the composites are the lightest you can get(& reducing rotational mass is always a good thing). One thing that I think also helps if you use the cpmposites, is getting some Pin Cushions for your CVD's(IRS sells them to add to your existing CVD's & ones that are preinstalled on composite CVD bones, which I like, very convenient)....

OleC

@Johnnytc3

I am currently using the Tobee bones but I will not be buying them again. They are ok for rear but in front the wear really quick.

I have other Tobee alu parts as well but I think the quality of the alu is low, it’s kind of soft and wears quickly.

I will be trying IRS big dawg bones next and possibly stick with graphite in the rear. If I feel rich one day I might get some from JT Racing Products

nitromike

I've just installed a spool in my front and was wondering if there is anything I need to change in setup before I run. Looks to me like it would make it want to push more than with the diff.