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Old 08-03-2003, 07:14 AM   #5656
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fhubbard - Thanks for the tip! I'm going to re-set up my car with these droop settings. Hopefully I can get to the track next weekend and give it a try.

I'll let you know how I make out.
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Old 08-03-2003, 08:00 AM   #5657
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I am sure that someone has explained it already, but would someone (again) explain what a "spool" is and how to accomplish it. Does it entail buying a bunch of parts, or can you just lock the front diff by tightening it all the way?

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Old 08-03-2003, 08:10 AM   #5658
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Default spool or locked diff

You can buy a nice aluminum one piece "spool" and just bolt up your ring gear and go. Or you can buy the losi rubber buttons and replace your diff balls with them and crank down the diff screw. Alot of people choose the latter because the losi buttons cost about 7.00 and the plastic outdrives are lighter and last longer.
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Old 08-03-2003, 10:46 AM   #5659
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Default Re: spool or locked diff

Quote:
Originally posted by MUFFIN
You can buy a nice aluminum one piece "spool" and just bolt up your ring gear and go. Or you can buy the losi rubber buttons and replace your diff balls with them and crank down the diff screw. Alot of people choose the latter because the losi buttons cost about 7.00 and the plastic outdrives are lighter and last longer.
Losi rubber buttons? Whats the part number for these ? Thx.
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Old 08-03-2003, 11:01 AM   #5660
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Yeah but if you try to make a spool with plastic outdrives they'll get torn to shreds. I was running one and just barely knicked a pipe and it ripped half the outdrive apart. Better off with the IRS alum. spool and pin cushions.
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Old 08-03-2003, 02:04 PM   #5661
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Brad: The reason you are getting different responses on shims for your gear cases is because of AE's tolerances. Think about it... if the cases were molded like they were supposed to be... there wouldnt be people "blueprinting" them to let the bearings run free. You can honestly get several replacement cases... and they will all be different. Some will need shims... some will need "blueprinting". The whole idea is for you to make sure that the bearings DONT bind in the cases when assembled... if you have room to add shims without binding... then do so... otherwise... grab the necessary tools and start filing away at the cases to make it work! Hope this helps...
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Old 08-03-2003, 08:12 PM   #5662
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On my TC3, I can set all the droops with the gauge, to say 4 front and 6 rear. Put the wheels on, lift up on the center of the chassis, and one wheel lifts before the other. I have been turning both droop screws equally in opposite directions until they lift at the same time. Now if I check them with the droop gauge, the sides are one or two numbers different. Then I put it on the tweak station and adjust rear shock preload to level front end. Am I doing this right or am I way off? Thanks for any advice.
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Old 08-03-2003, 09:13 PM   #5663
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nitromike,

here's a good method for setting tweak.

1st, set the station so that only one side is on the pivot block, and the chassis (not the other side's wheels) rests on teh stationary part. The goal by doing this is to get each side un-tweaked by itself, to isolate each side. Flip it around and do the other side.

2nd, put the station to full length so that all wheels are on the blocks. Adjust only the side that is on the pivoting part, NOT the opposite corner. I know that sounds contradictory to what you may have heard, but it works. Flip it around and do the other side. After you have done both sides, you should be able to flip the car around back and fourth and have a perfectly tweaked car. Trust me it works.

By the way, you should always have even droop left to right, dont go messing with that to adjust tweak.
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Old 08-03-2003, 09:28 PM   #5664
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Axiom, when you say put one side one the beam, are you talking about turning the car sideways? What do you adjust to untweak it first?
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Old 08-03-2003, 09:50 PM   #5665
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nitromike, try adjusting spring preload via the shock collars, maybe this could even things out. hope this helps!
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Old 08-03-2003, 11:09 PM   #5666
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Has anyone tried the TiR titanium input shafts for the tc3? What can you tell from using them?
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Old 08-04-2003, 12:16 AM   #5667
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NITRO,

Axiom means you should start with first putting your chassis on the rear of the tweakboard (so you've got a solid base/starting point).
And put the wheels (first front, than rear) on the balancing part.

It is a solid way to do it.
Good one, Axiom!

Then it is untweaked itself.

then part 2...
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Old 08-04-2003, 07:30 AM   #5668
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hey guys, how do y'all gear up for the pro monster stock motor?
what would be better? 72 spur or 66 spur? what final drive do would yield good results...say compared to a p2k2 geared at 72/28.
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Old 08-04-2003, 08:12 AM   #5669
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aluma
hey guys, how do y'all gear up for the pro monster stock motor?
what would be better? 72 spur or 66 spur? what final drive do would yield good results...say compared to a p2k2 geared at 72/28.
we gear a monster stock 72/25 = 7.2 which is really good enpough for the Monster. Personally Monster is for tracks with long straights, for tight tracks still P2k2 or MVP.

Peace
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Old 08-04-2003, 11:21 AM   #5670
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Mine is geared at 7.5(96/32). I race at a pretty big track.
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