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Old 09-08-2002, 04:16 PM
  #2461  
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Thanks guys

But what manufactuer?trinity,losi?
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Old 09-08-2002, 04:33 PM
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TRL: Kimbrough, trinity or Dumor
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Old 09-08-2002, 04:56 PM
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I got to test my car w/foam tires and the locked diff. First off the header card diff rings are better than just cranking down on the diff screw. I could feel the car get off of the corner much better.

My car got better as i changed a few things. I ran equal oil front and rear (50wt losi), and a front spring 2 rates higher than the rear (purple 30lb and red 22lb). The steering was killer, and I added a front swaybar (.063). To get the car more stable i went from 2+0 to 3+0. Only the car started to bind up in the corner, so i went from short wheelbase, to the middle. Pretty good there, so shock positions and camber link settings are next. Good luck

front
spring purple
oil 50 losi
piston #2
shock pos. middle/ outer-arm
rear shock tower on front
caster 4*/2* kickup
.063 swaybar
.100 spacer for bump steer
camber link upper inner
0* toe

ride 4mm
rear
spring red
oil 50 losi
piston #2
shock pos. middle/ outer-arm
toe 3+0
no swaybar
camber link upper inner
wheelbase middle
ride 4mm

locked diff
Parma MG X20 body
Jaco plaid and Purple
battery forward
low/med bite track (for carpet...)
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Old 09-09-2002, 06:38 AM
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Originally posted by Mike F
My Shoo Goo is holding up, LOCKED DIFF
Not a good idea, snapped in half, oh well, a leason learned. I also find out that my LHS doesn't carry the New 2-56(#3904) locknuts for the Diff Screw nor do they carry the New Molded Outdrives(#3908) that come with the FTTC3 but they can order them .

What outdrives are you guys running? IRS, RRP, Niftech?
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Old 09-09-2002, 07:11 AM
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Originally posted by Mike F


What outdrives are you guys running? IRS, RRP, Niftech?
IRS
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Old 09-09-2002, 07:40 AM
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Thanks Allan for the Molded OutDrives yesterday, sorry you had a bad day.
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Old 09-09-2002, 08:36 AM
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Originally posted by Mike F
What outdrives are you guys running? IRS, RRP, Niftech? [/B]
Stock, steel.
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Old 09-09-2002, 11:13 AM
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Thanks Boomer. I purchased that one yesterday, that's all my LHS had. After I assembled it I weighed it for $hits and giggles. It weighed 1 full ounce, the diff did. I weighed the Molded diff fully assembled (the one that comes with the FTTC3) and it only weighed .04 ounces. Interesting.

With the steel stock diff I can see how it is easier to obtain a Locked Diff set up. The molded diff come with that 2-59 lock nut and if too much pressure is put on it it will strip.

To compensate for the .06 extra weight I took off some lead weights that I had on the side near the motor. With Transponder and a ready to race car, including the body I'm at 53.4 ounces. ROAR legal.
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Old 09-10-2002, 09:18 AM
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Default Help!

Hello people!!!!

I need help! I just got my FTTC3 and i am still in the process of building it!

I will use it for Saturday's Race (its wedneday early morning here).

It will be the first CARPET RACE here in Manila, after a long time

and

It will be my first time to race carpet!! (STOCK)

The track set up will only be shown on race day!!!!

Please help me how to set up my car?


And.


SHall I follow the gear ratio for stock motor indicated in the kit, or follow, the recommendation of the manufacturer of the motor, I will be using P2K2 Pro!


Thanks!!!!!!!!


Lem
Manila, Philippines



PS!!!! LOVE building the kit!!!!!!!



PSS: I want to use this kit in this race, even though I have not driven it. watdayatink?

Last edited by lem2; 09-10-2002 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 09-10-2002, 09:43 AM
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Best to start out with the recommended kit setup out of the book and work your way from there, it's a pretty good starting point for most carpet tracks
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Old 09-10-2002, 09:47 AM
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Just like to know the basic effect of the rear shock tower on the front of the car with new lower mounting point?
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Old 09-10-2002, 09:50 AM
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Is the carpet Ozite or another variety?

I hat to disagree, but the kit carpet setup is quite old and dated. I would start with Tony Phalens Kinetix setup and go from there.

www.competitionx.com

I ran a similar setup on carpet and it was great. The kit setup I think is a little stiff for most tracks.
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Old 09-11-2002, 12:41 PM
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hey guys i took a glance at the last couple pages but didnt see anything on what the best way is to build a locked diff with steel outdrives. do you just not put in any balls and snug down the nut? and any other tips would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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Old 09-11-2002, 01:02 PM
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Originally posted by spaz456
hey guys i took a glance at the last couple pages but didnt see anything on what the best way is to build a locked diff with steel outdrives. do you just not put in any balls and snug down the nut? and any other tips would be greatly appreciated. thanks
I took out the balls, I actually took out the thrust bearing (the 6 tiny balls and the two washers) and the spring, I added some spacers between the little white nut piece (so it wouldn't bust its ears) and then just tightened everything down tight.

It didn't damage anything and I can re-assemble it back to normal in just a few minutes.
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Old 09-11-2002, 01:08 PM
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Originally posted by spaz456
hey guys i took a glance at the last couple pages but didnt see anything on what the best way is to build a locked diff with steel outdrives. do you just not put in any balls and snug down the nut? and any other tips would be greatly appreciated. thanks
I took out the balls, I actually took out the thrust bearing (the 6 tiny balls and the two washers) and the spring, I added some spacers between the little white nut piece (so it wouldn't bust its ears) and then just tightened everything down tight.

It didn't damage anything and I can re-assemble it back to normal in just a few minutes.
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