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Old 08-20-2002, 08:56 AM   #2311
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Locked diff is better on tight tracks. One-ways better on larger, flowing tracks. You could drive either on either track, but this is (the comparison) the normal setup.

I run the locker on all tracks. Just like the consistency.
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Old 08-20-2002, 10:52 AM   #2312
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Hi Tony,

I have a question for you.

what diff outdrives are you locking? (meaning the material) are you using the steel, plastic or aluminum diff outdrives.. also have you tried using a blown oneway. pinned together?

thanks
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Old 08-20-2002, 12:06 PM   #2313
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I'm using the locked diff on a tight track, right now, but am not planning on moving away from it anytime soon, whether on a large track or small.

Use the steel or aluminum diff outdrives and just lock them down.
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Old 08-20-2002, 02:21 PM   #2314
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I figured out the C hubs, thanks.

I'll have to give the locked diff a try soon. About two years ago I thought about doing that with my Yokomo because I kept blowing out front one ways but never got around to it and everyone said it wouldn't work.
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:07 PM   #2315
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Evening all,

Usually a reader and not a poster but I am in need of some advice...Just blew out my old Airtronics servo this weekend in my TC3 and since I need to replace it I want to get a servo that will serve me well and was wondering what some of you run, I prefer Futaba (never blown one out, knock on wood!) but would listen to other suggestions...

Also, I had bought the TC3 used and basically put together and now that I had to pull the servo I see that there really is no servo saver on this car, just an arm coming off the servo connected to the ballcup, so a good impact can/could kill any servo...

So, I guess my second question is, can you fit a regular servo saver into the TC3, it seems a bit tight...

Thanks all...
John
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:09 PM   #2316
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Servo saver is already integrated in the steering rack system.
I use Hitec HS-5925mg.
Never failed.



Quote:
Originally posted by TigeRyan
Evening all,

Usually a reader and not a poster but I am in need of some advice...Just blew out my old Airtronics servo this weekend in my TC3 and since I need to replace it I want to get a servo that will serve me well and was wondering what some of you run, I prefer Futaba (never blown one out, knock on wood!) but would listen to other suggestions...

Also, I had bought the TC3 used and basically put together and now that I had to pull the servo I see that there really is no servo saver on this car, just an arm coming off the servo connected to the ballcup, so a good impact can/could kill any servo...

So, I guess my second question is, can you fit a regular servo saver into the TC3, it seems a bit tight...

Thanks all...
John
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:18 PM   #2317
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Man, that is a fast servo...and will that torque be of any help, sorry for sounding ignorant, but this is probably the part of my cars I have payed the least attention to until lately...
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:23 PM   #2318
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I also use a Hitec, but just the 925MG, not the digital.

Makes a difference!
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Old 08-20-2002, 09:39 PM   #2319
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Last newbie question of the nite, which volts should I use for looking at the servo specs? 4.8volts or 6.0volts???

Thanks guy for the help!
John
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Old 08-20-2002, 10:44 PM   #2320
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Any decent servo over standard servo will make difference in handling of your car.
I wasn't going to buy a new steering servo and I kept breaking lots of parts. One day I noticed that my standard steering servo was so slow that I can see it slowly following the steering input with my eyes.
Then I went on to install a new servo. Most of my novice handling jitter is gone now.

It depends on the ESC. My TC2 has BEC voltage of 6.0, so I always look at the 6.0volt number.

Quote:
Originally posted by TigeRyan
Last newbie question of the nite, which volts should I use for looking at the servo specs? 4.8volts or 6.0volts???

Thanks guy for the help!
John
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Old 08-20-2002, 11:16 PM   #2321
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RCRUV
The best you can do for servos is buy a Futaba digital or a Aitronics Digital. But I think the Futaba servos do a better job of returning to center than the Airtronics. I have both!
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Old 08-20-2002, 11:36 PM   #2322
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TigeRyan: the servo saver is incorporated into the steering assembly. you can adjust the tension fo the servo saver by using the tiny "peep hole" at the bottom of the chassis.
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Old 08-21-2002, 07:38 AM   #2323
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Been going back thru the thread looking for instructions on mounting the rear shock tower on the front of the car, IE: will I need shims or anything else special...

Thanks all!
John
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Old 08-21-2002, 07:43 AM   #2324
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I've been using a new Hitec digital myself (cant beat the price) and it has been flawless. I am partial to Futaba myself as well, and have some of there coreless servo's too. They all work good, even the JR, and Airtronics.

Just try for something 80oz+ if you can afford something better than a plain ol stock 3003 at 42oz.
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Old 08-21-2002, 08:06 AM   #2325
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KilRuf: Most people are using a regular diff that is tightened all the way down....so, it's not quite locked. This works the good, but it tends to loosen up when the diff heats up (during a run). The other options are taking the TC3 steel or aluminum diff halves, drilling a hold through them, and putting a pin all the way through both halves AND the gear. This will essentially lock the diff. This setup will give you alot of steering out of a corner, but take away quite a bit going in.

TigeRyan: There are two ways to do this. One, you could just put the tower on and get a set of the new arms. This will allow you to lower the ride height below 5.5mm, and get the benefits of the front tower.....OR.....you could add one shim under each mounting location when you put the tower on (3 shims total). This will raise the tower a little and allow you to go below 5.5mm. This will ALSO raise the camber link attachment, so be aware of that.

I would suggest just getting the new arms. They're cheap and less hassle.
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