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Old 07-15-2002, 02:53 PM   #2131
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I'll start a new topic...

I've got a fairly good setup on my TC3 for bumpy track conditions, but what can I do for more on-power steering or better yet, Turn-in steering...

I have thought about a couple of things:

#1. More toe-in
#2. Softer Front springs
#3. Lighter weight front oil (already at 30 weight)

Thanks for any suggestions all....
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Old 07-15-2002, 02:55 PM   #2132
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what castor blocks are you running?
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Old 07-15-2002, 02:56 PM   #2133
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btw, if you wanted more turn-in steering you don't want more toe-in you would actually want toe-out.
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Old 07-15-2002, 02:58 PM   #2134
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Quote:
Originally posted by acloco
By using the rear shock tower on the front....and SPACING it up...you RAISE THE DAMN INNER CAMBER LINK LOCATION!!!!!
Looks like someone figured out a way to add more adjustments to the TC3's roll centers. Good thinking and you are RIGHT. Same here, but I modified my NTC3's front shock tower so that I can run lower caster than the stock options.
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:01 PM   #2135
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More on-power steering, try less droop in the front or more droop in the rear but it might push on exit.
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:02 PM   #2136
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I am running 0 degree caster blocks...

And currently 2 degree toe-in...
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:04 PM   #2137
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2 degree toe-in on the front? Are you using any anti-squat?
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:05 PM   #2138
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Quote:
Originally posted by acloco
ARGH! Crap...come on guys.

By using the rear shock tower on the front....and SPACING it up...you RAISE THE DAMN INNER CAMBER LINK LOCATION!!!!! The same amount that you raised the rear shock tower when moving it to the front.

Again.....draw it out on graph paper.


Take 10 minutes and draw it out......move the inner camber link location UP ....because you spaced the shock tower UP.
I'm not disagreeing that you'll move the inner camber link up, I'm just stating that moving the inner camber link up will LOWER the roll center.

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Old 07-15-2002, 03:09 PM   #2139
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The higher the inner pivot point of the camber link will decrease the roll of the chassis.
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:11 PM   #2140
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I will have to look for the Anti-squat when I have my setup sheet in front of me...

Is 2 degrees too much??
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:19 PM   #2141
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2 degrees toe-in for the front is too much in the wrong direction. Run 0-1 toe-out on the front is good. Anti-squat directs weight more upfront on and off-power. How much kickup are you running?
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Old 07-15-2002, 03:46 PM   #2142
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Wow, never run toe-out before on a TC...

Ok, well, will take those suggestions to the track with me Saturday, big charity race locally (South Jersey) so I want to try and put my best race out there...
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Old 07-15-2002, 04:59 PM   #2143
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Set it up at zero toe first.

Usually, we set it up with about 1/2 degrees toe-in (that's half). Toe-in on an electric sedan makes it more stable - if it's toed out, you're gonna be twitchy.

Strangely enough, it's opposite with my nitro sedan - toe-in is twitchy as a druggy without a fix! Toe out seems to pull the car straight. . .wierd.

If you're used to 2 deg in - I would go to about 0 and see how that works. It will prolly be too twitchy for you and you will run in a half degree.
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Old 07-16-2002, 09:38 PM   #2144
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TTT
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Old 07-17-2002, 12:02 AM   #2145
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As with real cars, 4wd works better with a slight amount of toe out .5 too 2.0 degrees. I believe it is because, under power the front wheel pull forward slightly. so if your at zero, when your under power your actually at negative toe position.


food for thought

Lap Ya Later

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