stevepowling

+1!!

Shameless121

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys I'm new to the F1 world and I All I need is a basic brushed esc because I'm just running a silver can motor, so nothing fancy or expensive yet just something that is going to fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.

robk

iTrader: (22)

MonkeyRacing: Still #1 in mind blowing F1 videos!!!

macavant

iTrader: (65)

I have that pack - fits OK in my F104W with the shorter carbon upper deck. I did have to remove the deck post (closest to ESC) to allow for easier ingress na egress of the pack.

cheROK1212

iTrader: (13)

Very nice!!!

evostyle

iTrader: (103)

Thanks!

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Hi All, I started building the F104 X1 and will post pictures and information about each step.

Since this is one of the first builds that I've shared, I under estimated the amount of time it takes to capture everything so please bear with my slow build pace (car could have been built hours ago)

So without further adieu...

Step 0 - Chassis Prep

This step is totally optional but I typically sand, seal, sand, and polish all of my carbon fiber pieces. The results are mirror finish edges and a smooth tactile feel when you handle the car.

The F104 X1 comes with an FRP lower and upper deck as well as a carbon fiber battery hold down plate. This is my first experience with the latest FRP material that Tamiya utilizes and the quality of the cuts were a pleasant suprise. For the FRP parts, I skipped the CA sealing and went straight to wet sanding starting at a 180 grit and finishing with a 1500 grit. Afterwards, I polished the edges with Mother's Polish. The finish isn't as mirror smooth as it would be if it was carbon fiber, but for my first FRP chassis, it's good enough.

Setting up for chassis prep:


Close up of raw carbon fiber edge:


On the carbon fiber piece, I wet sanded with 180 grit to knock off the sharp edge and then applied two coats of CA with a cotton swab.

A couple of tips on sealing with CA:

• Avoid using glue under flourescent light. The UV rays accelerate the cure time and yeilds a rough, crinkly surface.
• Try to seal with a warm ambient temperature, somewhere between 75-90 degrees F. If it's too cold, a white residue will form.
• Be patient and apply thin layers allowing proper drying time between coats.

After applying the CA I set the carbon fiber piece aside to completely dry. The area I'm taking photos in is full of flourescent lighting and would really mess it up. I'll post pictures later

Bearing Prep:
I took all of the axle bearings and did an initial blow out of grease with a quick hit of motor spray. I then placed them in a jar of motorspray and set them aside to marinate until needed. Again, this is only for the axle bearings...I did not do this for differential bearings. Also, keep in mind this trick is intended for spec, silvercan, or slow motor racing and bearing life will be shortened



That's it before starting on step 1.

lightfoot

iTrader: (2)

If anyone is interested in 2011 F1 Tire Decals, Mark G has got a deal for you...

http://uf1series.com/_news/news_2011.html

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

The first step is rather straight foward. It involves attaching the rc tray posts, the hi-traction T-bar and the bottom of the motor pod to the lower deck.

Here are all the parts for step 1:


Weight of kit supplied hardware instructed for use in step 1:


Weight of titanium and aluminum hardware I will be using in step 1:


Low profile nut:

I used a low profile 3mm aluminum nut and a 3x6mm countersunk screw instead of the kit setup to free up additional wiggle room when you slide batteries in an out of the chassis. This yields at least an additional 1mm of clearance so you don't scratch your batteries up when you slide them into the chassis at an angle. Please note the liberal use of blue loctite to keep the nut in place.

Step 1 completed:


Please let me know if you guys want me to continue posting weights or if you want me to STFU

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Step 2 involves assembly of the motor mount. It is very important to assemble the pod on a flat surface to prevent any tweaking which could potentially lead to an ill handling car.

Parts and an aluminum motor mount for step 2:


Weight of kit hardware:


Weight of titanium hardware:


Loosely assemble the motor mount:

I assembled the motor mount on my setup board and did not fully tighten any of the screws.

While holding the motor mount flat, tighten each screw a little bit at a time, alternating between different screws until all of them are snug:


Now you can apply Kong-like strength and tighten the screws completely

This concludes step 2. Step 3 is a no brainer and I am contemplating if I should even post it. I'll post some more after a little break.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Okay, I'll post this step before taking a break...

Attaching the motor mount to the chassis. Four 3x8mm countersunk screws...that's it

Parts for step 3:


Weight of kit hardware:


Weight of titanium hardware:


Step 3 completed:


Hardware weight savings so far: a whopping 4.9 grams hehe

hansenhon

iTrader: (6)

love your build.. looking forward for the subsequent build

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Step 4 involves attaching the rear drive shaft as well as ball studs for the shock and side damper.

Here are the parts used for step 4:


Acer synthetic is the only oil I ever use. It's a light oil and works very well for just about anything. Although the bottle has great eye candy, it doesn't have a needle tip, so I have a spare bottle with that.

Also pictured is carbon fiber rear shaft. I'm all for low rotational mass and if you can put the power down, it's a significant advantage.

Steel shaft:


Carbon fiber shaft (that's what I'm talking about):


A little glue goes a long way:


To prevent cracking or premature wear from constant screwing (hehe), a drop of CA was carefully spread across the flat spots on the CF shaft. If the CA goes anywhere except for the flat spot, the bearings supporting the shaft will be difficult to install. If that's the case, and you can see I had a little oopsie, spinning the shaft in some 400-600 grit sandpaper should remove the excess CA.

To be continued...

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

When I first saw these ball studs, I thought "Sweet, black anodized aluminum good stuff!" Then when I held them in my fingers, they felt a little bit too heavy to be aluminum...

Kit ball studs:


Aluminum hop ups:


Free speed:

Remember those bearings in the jar? I removed them and gave them another blast of motorspray to get rid of any residual grease. Once dry, I applied the synthetic oil:

Now that the CF shaft and bearings are ready, it's time to prep the parts that hold everything together.

Loctite set screws:

I used blue loctite on the set screws for the diff joint and wheel axle. With loctite, I do not have to overtighten the set screws and risk cracking the CF shaft. It should be tight but not carbon fiber-cracking tight.

Step 4 completed:


The counter weight is a neat idea, it doesn't effect rotating mass and acts like a spinner

Using the number 2 ride height adjuster to keep rear ground clearance to a minimum.

Important tip, when stacking all the pieces onto the rear motor pod, you want the shaft to have a microscopic amount of side to side play. Maybe 0.05mm, just enough to ensure that the shaft assembly floats freely and none of the bearings will bind. It took several attempts, but with enough patience and adjusting, I was satisfied with the result. Again, this is a free speed tip Rear wheels will spin forever.


That's it for step 4. Tomorrow, I'll tackle the differential.

I've spent more time posting this stuff than I have on building the car I hope this helps.

Taman

iTrader: (67)

Great Build shots/ info, thanks for taking the time to do it.