bertran

Anyone tried F103rs rubber tires in the F104 PRO ?

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

One more question (not really, I am sure I will have a lot more). If I convert to 64 pitch, what might be a good starting point for Spur size/pinion size when running 17.5. I might aleady have the gears I need.

robk

iTrader: (22)

roll out the car pretty high. I would get a 80-88 t spur. you're gonna need a good sized pinion. In 12th scale, they have run as high as 80mm rollout, but that is with 4 cell. Try around 50mm and work your way up.

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

When I was with my F103GT, I raced with 7.5R. It's a matter of getting used to.

In my opinion for gearing ratio for your 17.5R, you can do 75T (Spur) with 24T (Pinion) for a start. Try it on the straight at your preferred track and see if the car reaches top speed (by listening to the sound, or by the feel of your throttle) right after the halfway point (Straights only, do choose the longest straight, if there are a lot of it at your track). If your car reaches top speed before the halfway point, gear up in your pinion gear. Reason being that if your car reaches top before the halfway, over a period of time, the motor will give way. So nurse your motor, as well as your ESC.

Try asking your friends to see if they lend you the pinions to test-drive, before you commit to the gear ratio by buying the pinion you like. Oh yeah, Go get those Spur Gear Adaptor (ring thing) and that allows you to fit any 64p or 48p spurs in the market. If you get the 3Racing ones, remember to shave a fraction off the width. They are too broad to make the diff work.

Hope it helps!
Alfie

Metla

What's the advantage of the aluminium motor mount?, Looks liek a lot of people are fitting them right from new.

Is it just looks?, Is the motor mount a weakness? (and how would anyone know at this stage?)

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

The easier and "no-money-involved" method is to make a hole big enough for the 1280 bearing to be fitted in the centre, with a reamer or a drill bit.

But of course, you will have to be able to part with the fact that this method defeats the use of the spur gear for other cars.

Just make sure that the hole that you make is not too big. A little loose is fine, because ultimately, it's the diff plates that's holding on to the diff balls, and not a solid axle setup.

Alfie

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

It warps, under direct heat (which is coming from your motor, if not from your local climate).

Alfie

svines1972

iTrader: (26)

I checked Gearchart.com and with a 78/27 the gear ratio is 7.51. Does this sound about right? Rollout will have to wait until i can get the measurement for the tires.

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

For me, I find that the rollout is too much to catch up on. The diameter is constantly changing every single pack of runtime. So I use the track to gauge my gearing, and at the same time, check to make sure that the motor does not overheat at all, though sometimes I tend to overgear to get the high-speed adrenaline.

Alfie

alan1467

Has anyone fitted the cheap tamiya brushless TBLE-01 speedo? does it fit ok?
Or what brushless speedos are people using?

Thanks

PDR

iTrader: (31)

I've put a Novak GTB in mine. The wiring is tight (and might need to be fine tuned), but definitely manageable. It's driving a 17.5T brushless, so I've removed the fan to keep the profile down a bit. I haven't fitted the side pods, since I decided I liked the slimline look and the fan would have been largely ineffective against the side of the body.

Had it's first run last night at our club track (smaracing.org) with a field of F1's, mostly F201's. It's an outdoor track and I was a bit terrified about a lack of grip in cooler air (well, cooler for Sydney), but it hung in quite well for it's first public display. I was under-driving it quite substantially, but the main thing: it was a lot of fun!

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

Hi!

Did your GTB protrude out? I tried putting my GTB but it's like not meant for that tight space.

Alfie

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone else tried adjusting the ride height at the front end of the car? I lowered the front of the chassis by rearranging the spacers on the king pins and it really through the steering links up to a steep angle. The result was major bump steer. I was thinking of using the shorter/smaller servo horn but I know this will change the ackerman. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions?

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

Here is a picture is what I’m talking about. This shows the steering links at the recommended stock locations. By lowering the chassis this raises the front axel and makes the links attach at a steeper angle.

JayL

maybe spacers under the steering linkage mount at the knuckle end