Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya F104 Pro! >

Tamiya F104 Pro!

Like Tree12Likes

Tamiya F104 Pro!

Old 12-06-2012, 08:01 PM
  #9016  
Dan
Tech Champion
iTrader: (69)
 
Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 5,642
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default

You have to shave the inside plastic so that the electronics side pods just clip onto the post.
Dan is offline  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:22 PM
  #9017  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
The Captain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Dan View Post
You have to shave the inside plastic so that the electronics side pods just clip onto the post.
That doesn't seem very secure, any issues with them falling off? I'll give it a shot though.
The Captain is offline  
Old 12-07-2012, 07:09 AM
  #9018  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
nrtv20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 962
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I ground mine almost to a paper thin amount and have had no troubles at all, others have gone further and I've never seen any problems.
nrtv20 is offline  
Old 12-07-2012, 07:22 AM
  #9019  
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,560
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I converted my f104 pro with the lipo conversion, it does away with the top deck and replaces it with a smaller one, and the side pods are a different design.

Now that I'm going f1r, the conversion kit is for sale. I'm also selling the f104 pro top deck, main Chasis plate separately.
Boostinswifty38 is offline  
Old 12-07-2012, 05:18 PM
  #9020  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
 
mkennedy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: las vegas
Posts: 506
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by The Captain View Post
That doesn't seem very secure, any issues with them falling off? I'll give it a shot though.
i used mine with servo tape and stuck them to the battery and around the post as a holder
mkennedy is offline  
Old 12-07-2012, 08:27 PM
  #9021  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
The Captain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

This was my solution, a piece of aluminum





The aluminum piece is held in with a thin piece of 3M double sided tape. There is a piece of foam behind the battery to keep it all the way forward. Just have to remove 2 of the chassis standoffs and the Rx to get the battery out. The Rx is held on with 3M dual lock, so it is removable. Much more secure than the stock plastic pods IMO.

I'll be swapping out that economy ESC with a sensored one soon enough!
The Captain is offline  
Old 12-07-2012, 08:39 PM
  #9022  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,542
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Heya Captain

I would highly suggest using 16g wire
That 12g is going to cause a tweak in your pod
RedBullFiXX is offline  
Old 12-07-2012, 09:09 PM
  #9023  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
 
The Captain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Heya Captain

I would highly suggest using 16g wire
That 12g is going to cause a tweak in your pod
??? Im new to f1, elaborate?
The Captain is offline  
Old 12-08-2012, 05:05 AM
  #9024  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Northern & Central Illinois
Posts: 4,337
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

12ga wire is stiffer and heavier than 14 or 16ga wire which may inhibit the rear pod from moving freely. Heavy gauge wire is not needed for 21.5 motors.
AreCee is offline  
Old 12-08-2012, 06:46 AM
  #9025  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,542
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by The Captain View Post
??? Im new to f1, elaborate?
Being that F1 cars are lightweight & rear wheel drive, they will never see high current loads, so the use of heavy gauge wire is unnecessary, especially with stock spec motors

Furthermore, lighter 16g wire allows the pod to articulate with more freedom
This is crucial with a pan car
RedBullFiXX is offline  
Old 12-08-2012, 07:23 AM
  #9026  
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
 
HeliYogi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: WA
Posts: 1,199
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Being that F1 cars are lightweight & rear wheel drive, they will never see high current loads, so the use of heavy gauge wire is unnecessary, especially with stock spec motors

Furthermore, lighter 16g wire allows the pod to articulate with more freedom
This is crucial with a pan car
Yes Sir, second that suggestion...
Plug in the battery, put the body on and feel if the T plate moves freely form side to side and back/forward (no cable or body crunch or rub). No contact with cables and body allowed.
The T plate should hold a flat even position whit the chassis as you lift the car up and look at it holding it leveled.

Cheers.
HeliYogi is offline  
Old 12-08-2012, 08:09 AM
  #9027  
Tech Regular
 
durtbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: planet X in a distant galaxy
Posts: 401
Default

16g Novak Noodle wire.

Last edited by durtbag; 09-28-2016 at 08:48 PM.
durtbag is offline  
Old 12-08-2012, 08:29 AM
  #9028  
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
 
HeliYogi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: WA
Posts: 1,199
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default St. servo position

Originally Posted by durtbag View Post
16g Novak Noodle wire.
Have you tried a low profile steering servo mounted with the horn up? It makes the steering so much precise and gets rid of the Ackerman effect.





Or just pick up the front part of your servo until the turnbuckles are in a straight line to the uprights. Hold it up and tape it like this to the servo holder.

Just a taught,

Cheers
HeliYogi is offline  
Old 12-08-2012, 08:41 AM
  #9029  
Tech Regular
 
durtbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: planet X in a distant galaxy
Posts: 401
Default

Originally Posted by HeliYogi View Post
Have you tried a low profile steering servo mounted with the horn up? It makes the steering so much precise and gets rid of the Ackerman effect.





Or just pick up the front part of your servo until the turnbuckles are in a straight line to the uprights. Hold it up and tape it like this to the servo holder.

Just a taught,

Cheers
Yeah, ran a low pro Savox for a while like that, but it got put in the TC. I drilled a second set of holes in my servo horn so can lower the inner links to change the level of the turnbuckles. on foam the steering is pretty agressive.
durtbag is offline  
Old 12-08-2012, 09:23 AM
  #9030  
Tech Regular
 
durtbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: planet X in a distant galaxy
Posts: 401
Default

Lowering the inner links gets the tie rods level

Last edited by durtbag; 09-28-2016 at 08:46 PM.
durtbag is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.