Tamiya F104 Pro!
#8956
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)

You are never going to see a modern fluid filled gear diff in a direct drive F1, purely because you would be adding so much more weight to the rear axle on the diff side you would have to balance it out by adding even more on the other end of the axle, all increasing the rotational inertia of the axle.

The FGX has a fluid filled diff but runs a gearbox.
#8957
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)

Last friday I ran my F104 Pro for the first time ever. My only F1 experience prior has been a 103 on foams.
Anyway, my outer front tires were chattering like crazy, especially in tight 180's.
What can I do to fix this? Here's my set-up:
New TCS (shimizu) fronts and rear
Trinity Rubber Death Grip, full sauce on all tires
I tried both black and silver front springs- same result
Tried both 1 and 2* camber- same result
I have the servo setup horizontally/ laydown instead of stock, with the tierods set even/straight across. tierods were horizontal.
Tierods mounted on the front holes of steering blocks
So my question is, is this a matter of excessive caster, or a lack of ackerman?
Anyway, my outer front tires were chattering like crazy, especially in tight 180's.
What can I do to fix this? Here's my set-up:
New TCS (shimizu) fronts and rear
Trinity Rubber Death Grip, full sauce on all tires
I tried both black and silver front springs- same result
Tried both 1 and 2* camber- same result
I have the servo setup horizontally/ laydown instead of stock, with the tierods set even/straight across. tierods were horizontal.
Tierods mounted on the front holes of steering blocks
So my question is, is this a matter of excessive caster, or a lack of ackerman?
#8961

Exactly, the FGX it's not a direct drive chassis. Two Wheels is talking about direct drive.
I wold get the "B" options. PM me I think I still have a NIB set.
Cheers,
Marcos
Cheers,
Marcos
#8962
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)

Ran a set of the Ride R1 premounts yesterday and they worked really well, but had trouble with getting the front ride height down, due to the know issue of the king pin rubbing on the rim, the lowest i got was 6.5mm on the front
has anyone else been able to get it lower then this by fiddling with the spacers, im running with the option alloy knuckles.
and to get the rear end to stop hopping or bouncing when i go over bumps, would it be more droop?
thanks in advance
has anyone else been able to get it lower then this by fiddling with the spacers, im running with the option alloy knuckles.
and to get the rear end to stop hopping or bouncing when i go over bumps, would it be more droop?
thanks in advance
#8963

Last friday I ran my F104 Pro for the first time ever. My only F1 experience prior has been a 103 on foams.
Anyway, my outer front tires were chattering like crazy, especially in tight 180's.
What can I do to fix this? Here's my set-up:
New TCS (shimizu) fronts and rear
Trinity Rubber Death Grip, full sauce on all tires
I tried both black and silver front springs- same result
Tried both 1 and 2* camber- same result
I have the servo setup horizontally/ laydown instead of stock, with the tierods set even/straight across. tierods were horizontal.
Tierods mounted on the front holes of steering blocks
So my question is, is this a matter of excessive caster, or a lack of ackerman?
Anyway, my outer front tires were chattering like crazy, especially in tight 180's.
What can I do to fix this? Here's my set-up:
New TCS (shimizu) fronts and rear
Trinity Rubber Death Grip, full sauce on all tires
I tried both black and silver front springs- same result
Tried both 1 and 2* camber- same result
I have the servo setup horizontally/ laydown instead of stock, with the tierods set even/straight across. tierods were horizontal.
Tierods mounted on the front holes of steering blocks
So my question is, is this a matter of excessive caster, or a lack of ackerman?
#8964

Really like Robk's idea for front droop:
http://rcf1blog.blogspot.com/2012/10...ws-or-how.html
What do you guys think about using a droop screw with a flat head but can still adjust with a hex on the screw end?
Like this:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...p-Screw-Set-10
http://rcf1blog.blogspot.com/2012/10...ws-or-how.html
What do you guys think about using a droop screw with a flat head but can still adjust with a hex on the screw end?
Like this:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...p-Screw-Set-10
#8967

and
Speedworld raceway in roseville
both race F1 at least twice a month and have good helpful people
Kinda funny about front droop, I have one person saying run .5-1mm and another saying pull the front droop screws completely, and both are knowledgeable and fast

I need to try both back to back once I get those droop screws
#8968

Ran a set of the Ride R1 premounts yesterday and they worked really well, but had trouble with getting the front ride height down, due to the know issue of the king pin rubbing on the rim, the lowest i got was 6.5mm on the front
has anyone else been able to get it lower then this by fiddling with the spacers, im running with the option alloy knuckles.
and to get the rear end to stop hopping or bouncing when i go over bumps, would it be more droop?
thanks in advance
has anyone else been able to get it lower then this by fiddling with the spacers, im running with the option alloy knuckles.
and to get the rear end to stop hopping or bouncing when i go over bumps, would it be more droop?
thanks in advance
Hi I)arkness
i try also this tire - is a very good tire
you have two options
1) 2 mm spacer ander the front suspension - i drive this so....
2) cut the front spring a little bit
i drive my car with 3mm front ride high
but the best right high for me is 4,5 in the front
greet herbert

i drive this t
#8969

i am on the hunt for the little wee screws and nuts that the 104 bodies use to attach the sidepods. can anyone point me in the right direction? cheers