mb racer

iTrader: (1)

Chris , pm sent ..

5VoltDetonator

Which batteries should I use? I thought I read the shorty lipos were good, but the turnigys 4200maf 65C I got don't fit they are slightly too wide to go all the way back. I got some Gen Ace 3500 mah 35C that do fit, but I cant put the front holder thing in so they might wiggle a little. Is the C rating important using a 21.5 motor? Seems like a lower C would give me less punch and maybe make it easier to drive? Almost got everything together, Just want to know what most use for batteries. I have a pretty stock F104 Pro- Thanks

idbdoug

iTrader: (40)

will the
3Racing (#F103GT-31/LB) Motor Mount w/Cooling F103GT
work on a F104 Pro X1??? Would like a little more height adjustment in the rear of the car that these motor mounts will give you with rubber tires.
thanks
idbdoug

5VoltDetonator

I'm an RC and F1 newb , but I don't think so . If you look back a page or two I had the same problem, got a f104 used and the pod had 1 f103 aluminum piece. Even using diff ride hieght adjusters I still don't think they will come out even.. Look back a page or so and see what happened to me and what the experts said.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Yeah Doug, that one will work. I need to get that one. Much prettier than the blue on one side and plastic on the other.

5th wheel

Has anyone tried out the Ride tires yet on asphat .. type A soft on a f-104W..is that a good tire for parking lot running

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Any reason you don't want or can't find the Pit Shimizu tires that are proven to be the best?

Markus

iTrader: (92)

I feel any lipo battery is fine for F1. I have used all different kinds. I don't place too much thought in c ratings since I race in 'blinky' (no boost) classed F1. C ratings are more important in modified racing. Just use a 4000mah or higher. The reason is the higher mah will maintain a higher voltage throughout the discharge curve so the punch will remain throughout the entire 6min run. I currently use a shorty pack, only because they are lighter and there is no weight limit in this class. Honestly, I like the shorty in my x1, but when i used the regular pro, I prefered a regular sized pack with no posts. I don't use the plastic front battery retainer. In my x1, I take the top plate off and double side tape my battery on the top and bottom, then screw the top plate on. I never had any movement or falling out. when i used the pro with no posts I just double side taped the battery and then battery taped to the lower chassis plate.

Use your turnigy pack. don't worry if it doesn't go all the way back. same if you use your gens ace pack, just put it as far back as it will go and tape it down to the chassis.

Deja Vu

iTrader: (11)

Markus, with the exception that I have the basic F104 chassis, our cars are set up nearly identical. I really like the shorty battery and inboard electronics. On mine, I only sticky taped the bottom of the battery down thinking that with the top plate free, I can still get some flex. Mine has the full length top plate though where your's can get flex in the center. With this setup, does your car seem "stiff" at all? Or is less flex better?

Looks good

Markus

iTrader: (92)

Deja Vu,
I made an incorrect statement in my previous post (it was late). With my X1 and shorty pack I only double side taped the bottom. When I had a pro, I double side taped the top and bottom since I used a full sized pack with no side posts.

I feel flex is a personal 'feel'. I don't prefer a car with a lot of flex. I even run my T3 2012 with all the screws in and tight. In my experience, when a car gets too flexy it starts to 'feel' kind of rubbery during the drive. I do try to add some when I feel I need a little more traction that I can't seem to get with suspension changes. I just use loctite (sp?) and back off some screws.
At my last race, outdoor, medium grip, with Tamiya Rubber tires, I found that I tightened the t-bar center screw and loosened the front two screws that hold the t-bar to the main chassis to find rear grip. <- That will probably sound completely wrong to most, but it worked for me on that day.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

The Intellect 50C 4400mah shorty lipo fits all the way back into the rear holder. There is a 1-1.5mm gap between the battery and upper deck but I placed a bit of thin foam that helps secure it better. You actually don't want it all the way in the back unless it is poor driving conditions. I'm getting quite a bit of push in my X1.

I'm building my V2 with the shorty pack more forward.

roland5color

iTrader: (46)

Just picked up a f104 pro black. I have a 6.5 vortex pro motor laying around. Am I crazy to think that I can put it in the F104 and just dial it back. Would I even be able to gear it properly to run in the car? Or should I just pick up a 17.5 to put in it. I wont be racing it just running it at practice days. Don't have a class at my track.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

I wouldnt bother with the 6.5 thats for sure. What kinda track?

roland5color

iTrader: (46)

Thanks for the quick reply. Its an outdoor asphalt track Medium to high traction depending on if the track has been prepped and sprayed with traction compound. Long 220 Ft. back straight and the rest of the track is fairly open and fast. I usually run 2wd modified buggy this is my first on road car.
Also what gauge wire should I run from the esc to the motor. I currently have 12 gauge on all my offroad cars but from what I have read this is to heavy for the F104 and may tweak the rear end.

Deja Vu

iTrader: (11)

Thank you for the reply. Again, I have mine similar...tight screws and no middle side posts. I am trying to keep the front chassis stiff, but didn't want to tape top and bottom on the battery so that it didn't inhibit (or influence) any flex in the chassis itself.

Thanks for the suggestion on the rear pod flex plate. Right now, mine seems to do pretty well with rear traction...but if I need a bit more sometime, I'll give your idea a try.

Thanks