texastc

iTrader: (2)

Spare t plates. Bottom plates.

5VoltDetonator

Which "bottom plates" are you talking about? The friction plate? The bottom where you put black grease according to the book? Also, does the grease stay in there? It seems like it would leak out.

And as far as t-plate would I want the thinest one for Asphalt / parking lot? I been told the rear should be soft, is that right? so the thinest should be the softest correct?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Hey 5Voltdude,
Looks like you may have a motor plate (purple) made for an F103 which will also have a different axle height, even with matching axle adjusters.
The F104 and the F103 motor mount sets have different heights so you will need to get a matching set of 104 peices.
That purple F103 motor mount is cool as hell and vintage if I'm not mistaken. I wanted one for a long time and did finally score one.
You can get the F104 set in plastic for just a few bucks. I'm sure TQ and Speedtech have that set.

Get the High Traction T plate, it's $15 bucks and fragile but is well worth it for asphalt and low traction. If you can stand it, get 2 cuz it'll break easily.

5VoltDetonator

Now I really feel stupid and ripped off. So the purple piece is from a f103 and trhe other 3 pieces are f104? or it's all f103. Maybe I should return it? The guy has a 14 day return policy- first time I ever saw that on an rc. But if I return it, I feel like I may really get ripped off then and get no $ back.. I allready wrote the ebay guy and told him my problem and that he should refund me some money 40$ for parts I need. but now I need more great- ok

OK I'll get a couple high traction t plates..

The plastic mount is 7$ I see the carbon reinforced plastic motor mount 9$ then I also see yeah racing 1 piece alum for 21$. Now i read about how it's so important to put this box together perfectly square. Dont seem hard but I tend to f things up so maybe the 1 piece is worth it? Any thoughts is it any good, seems like everything at tq is good but I thoght I'd ask if it is worth the 10$ extra?

I'm allready up to free shipping with the the parts I got to get for this so I lucky there-

btw Thanks for the help everyone!

texastc

iTrader: (2)

I would get the the Tamiya pod. I bent my Yeah racing one piece, as did everyone else local that had one. Very slight bend that will mess up the whole works. You can get the entire rear pod for the F104 or the F103 for under $10/carbon reinforced plastic.
Bottom plate I refer to is the difuser. I have seen a few break. Always good to have spares, plus it comes as part f the motor pod kit. If that aluminum piece is F103, then you can get the F103 pod and still use the aluminium motor mount, or just get the F104 pod. Its an easy fix.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

it was probably an honest mistake - he probably figured since everything looked the same, it was the same...the F104 parts actually replace the left and right side of the motor pod, not just the motor side..

i wouldn't return it...just see what he says and go from there - in the long run, its probably worth NOT returning and buying the additional parts and taking the loss and move on

5VoltDetonator

Thanks Texas! Yeah I will take some more pix of motor mount maybe you can tell me if it is 103.. glad I asked about the 1 piece alum mount. I will proly just get the carbon / plastic F104 pod and be done with it. Like u say Its an easy fix.

dfx

I must say I don't like carbon reinforced plastic F104 gear case parts. To fragile, tried it, broke it, returned to old plastic parts which I ride (with alu motor mount) for more than 2 years...

5VoltDetonator

Yeah you right, I 'm not going to return it. He wrote me back quick saying he was sorry, he could get the stripped screw out and to send it to him, and that he forgot the spare parts. He will probly send the spare I will buy and a few parts and fix it and just move on.

robk

iTrader: (22)

5 volt Dude:
Get the plastic bottom plate/diffuser. The carbon one is cool, but the fins break off the diffuser easily if you are racing outdoors, especially on curbs.

You can also get the plastic pod parts for the F103 and use the aluminum motor mount you have now. You just need to run the axle higher in the pod, as the F104 has the holes for the axle cams higher in the mount. No big deal, easily done. All the F103 pod parts will bolt right on, as long as you use all F103 parts (don't mix and match).

As far as the T bars, the 3Racing stuff is probably ok to use if you put the thinnest one on the car. You want to use a thin t bar outside generally. If the car starts over rotating, or you want it to square up a little more, then you can go to a little thicker t bar.

BTW there is also a 1 piece t bar/bottom plate from 3Racing as well, if you want to go that route.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Another RCShox FQ01 win!! I am the yellow Renault
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yvSj...e_gdata_player

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

hey guys...what would you recommend, fluid-wise, for running on a sealed, semi-prepared asphalt track? I am using the Aluminum Pitch Damper Set RM-01/F104/F103 on my F104

I know I had green damper grease on the damper tubes - but wanna try out the actual side shock and see what happens...

I will be running 21.5 blinky and pits 571/572

thanks!

Markus

iTrader: (90)

I ran the aluminum pitch damper on my X1(first time) at the Jackson TCS. I ran Associated 20wt shock oil. My car pushed. I didn't get a chance to thicken the oil but I would have probably would have liked to try 30wt or 32.5wt.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

cool thanks...I have it sitting here and since we're going to try and get a UF1 series running in NJ, I figure I should throw it on my car

hanzo3

iTrader: (55)

Do I run an exponential throttle curve on this? I have a Novak edge on mine. Can anyone share their esc settings?