transplantlife

iTrader: (45)

Anyone have a dialed set up yet anyone,anyone

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

What u may wanna try is heating the rims up so the plastic expands around the bearing. I would almost suggest boiling them, but that might sell them up enough to get a good fit. My bearings fall out real easy, but no slop when everything is tight.

timmig

iTrader: (25)

There was a guy last Sat running the 103 rubber on a 104 car and his was working really well. Soft rears with medium fronts I believe, perhaps he can chime in here. I'd love to know also--- he was using Paragon ground effects sauce on the rubber too. His car was the best dialed I've seen so far.
FYI
Tim
on the bearing issue--perhaps they are american sized? And should be metric?
T

RonF

iTrader: (9)

timmig,
Why not ask him his setup/parts list to make those 103 rubbers fit on 104?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

He was using F103 wheels and tires on the rear only and douchin with my Paragon Ground Effects.

In case you guys missed it, David Junn has F103 wheels mounted front and rear on his 104.
All the tricks to pull this off are given as well back on page 50 this thread.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

I started working on my F104. I've had the kit and all the hop ups since since release and FINALLY have gotten around to building it. One of the reasons for not having it done sooner was the body on it. The shape is simply amazing and begs for a scheme that would do it right. Unfortunately, I don't have that kind of time until this weekend. This time around, I'm doing the body before building the chassis. I can't wait to get it running and see if I can hustle it like an F103. Here are a few pics of the work in progress. I'm kind of bummed out after I mounted the right side pod. The pod must have shifted a little (double sided taped first) while I was drilling holes. The result is a slightly offset pod...poop

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

Rod,
the car looks awsome so far, just wondering what paints and colors you are using, and what you use to mask with.
Ive been meaning to say this for a while, but both you and George are not only great racers, but also incredible modelers. Definitely got the whole package dialed in, every time I do another body, I learn something, and every one is better than the last, but you guys are a tough act to follow.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Nah Brad, your stuff is way better.

Okay, this may be long winded but this is how I painted the body. Btw, Why do the call it "painting?" it should be called "masking". Masking is boring and no fun

Ordered decals from d-drive
Scratched my head/ass for a couple of weeks trying to figure out how I'm going to paint it.
Brian sent me the attached picture which helped visualize where lines should go.
Repeat step 2
Basically spent more time thinking about it than actually doing it.

The following Tamiya were used:
PS-6 Yellow
PS-4 Blue
PS-3 Light Blue
PS-1 White
PS-12 Silver
PS-5 Black

Vinyl was used for all masking. For the curved lines and rounded corners, I made small paper templates and cut small sections of vinyl. I wet the vinyl and area of the body with windex and position them accordingly. Doing the pinstripping required the use of two tweezers at certain points (not fun)

Masked off everything that is black
Masked off everything that was not yellow using the above method
Sprayed yellow
Sprayed white for brightness
Sprayed silver for backing
Removed mask
Masked off everything that was dark blue using the method above
Sprayed light blue
Sprayed white for brightness
sprayed silver for backing
Removed mask
Sprayed dark blue
Removed mask for black areas
Sprayed everything black.

In hindsight, I should have given the blue a coat of white to brighten it up a little bit to better match the vinyl I plan on using for the wings...but it's close enough.

It was a lot of work but I'm pleased with the results. And atleast I think I have a process figured out if I ever do another.

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

Interesting,
You went light to dark
I went dark to light
I also used Fascolor paints through the airbrush
I may be able to save you some time on the next one as i am developing paintmasks for that livery on the 104.
Developing said masks is tricky, and they are not perfect, but they definitely take some of the monotony out of painting bodies. The ones I did for the McLaren on the Chevron body are working pretty well. If I hustle I can have a McLaren ready for paint in about a 1/2 hour. Will be doing the McLaren on the 104 real soon as well
Thanks for sharing your process

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I went from light to dark...quite the opposite of conventional methods Backing with silver typically prevents subsequent dark colors from showing through. I wanted to do this with the least amount of masking (work) and airbrush cleaning (even more work) as possible. The Tamiya rattle can colors really pop and work nicely.

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

By the way, here is Charles Lightfoots car that I did for him, it is on the other F1 thread, and I know its an F103 but just for comparisons sake

BP SHADOW

iTrader: (24)

You definitely did it smarter than I did, and your results are cleaner.
Easier to burnish down a single stripe too than a whole big mask
After these two McLarens are done I am doing 2 BMW's, 1 Wiliams and 1 Sauber, will be doing masks for them as well
Are you shooting the Tamiya color through the airbrush?

veecee

iTrader: (34)

Awesome work guys! I agree masking is tedious, especially near the rear spine of the F104 body. Very hard to get masking tape or vinyl up there and get them to sit right.

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

Rattle cans for life! It's probably heavier than it needs to be (as opposed to airbrushing) but no cleaning.

Vyger

iTrader: (2)

The car looks GREAT Rod! Nice crisp lines. I hope you washed your hands after taking so long scratching your ass. LOL JK I can’t wait to see the whole thing finished. Thanks for posting the pics and your process.