FST4RD

I run the rear end as "loose" as possible. I removed the friction disks altogether, loosened the t-bar screw as much as I could, although I will glue the oring in place cause loosening the screw to much can cause drag on the ground. Also soft rear shock with the spring wound almost all the way out (again depends on how tall your tyres are and ground clearance). Also I run the TRG wing, the Tamiya one os useless and I kept breaking them from the smallest hits. Now I have the problem of plenty of rear grip and not enough front! But working on that.
Oh and I also run the front higher then the back, tried it the other way around with no success.

FST4RD

The F104pro kit rear tyres, can you get the exact same tyre but for the F103 rims?

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

I assume it'll be more consistent and not need rebuilding every race day. I've got one on the way to try so will post my findings then.

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

If you make the back higher it will improve steering

FST4RD

Right... I might have to have a fiddle.
I was having a real issue with the back wanting to spin around in corners, so I changed a few things and went to foam 25's on the back.
The back is nice and glued now going through corners and now just need to sort the front.

In saying that I have just changed to the 3racing F103 front end and still tuning it. Was running 0 camber, wound it in a bit to about 1.5-2 degrees camber which helped.
I also have the castor adjustment as well which I am yet to play around with.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Use this mod on the T-bar http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-pro-t-bar.jpg.
It will give you more rear bite

regards Roy

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

I tried the sponge but found you had to cut it in half for it to work. The full sponge causes the car to arch in the middle

robk

iTrader: (22)

Raise the rear shock ball stud on the damper plate by 2mm to start.

dfx

Nice car, thanks for the pictures!
Curious how it is working on the track...

Apex

iTrader: (48)

Anyone have a starting roll out for a Reedy Sonic 21.5? Track has an 80 to 90 foot straight. I plan to use the stock 93 tooth spur since I actually got the diff pretty smooth with the stock spur.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

With or without a battery fitted??
I never had the car "arch" in the middle with the sponge
With a battery fitted, and it depends on what battery the t-bar will sit equall or a bit higher then the chassisplate.
If it arches up the the spring tension is to high.
If it is opposite you need to preload the spring a bit.

regards Roy

Northskate

I just received my f104 3.5mm uprights yesterday.
I looked at them up close with my original ones and cannot
notice a difference at all. Is it very subtle? Anyone know?
Should it be a big difference. Maybe they're already on my car.
Thanks

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Nothing we can do or say without pictures.

regards Roy

nrtv20

iTrader: (8)

The offset uprights should have the axle mounted behind the pin; the kit standard ones have the pin going through the axle.

J-PaP

iTrader: (12)

Basically without anything in there the car was even/sagged a tiny bit. Added the sponge and it was arching in the middle (without a battery). Even when the battery was fitted the sponge seemed too thick and wouldn't compress enough to allow the t bar to move freely. I basically run my centre shock with 0-1mm pre load.

I didn't end up trying it but if the sponge was cut in half it definitely would have worked great.