Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya F104 Pro! >

Tamiya F104 Pro!

Like Tree12Likes

Tamiya F104 Pro!

Old 03-08-2012, 07:54 PM
  #7831  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 81
Default

I run the rear end as "loose" as possible. I removed the friction disks altogether, loosened the t-bar screw as much as I could, although I will glue the oring in place cause loosening the screw to much can cause drag on the ground. Also soft rear shock with the spring wound almost all the way out (again depends on how tall your tyres are and ground clearance). Also I run the TRG wing, the Tamiya one os useless and I kept breaking them from the smallest hits. Now I have the problem of plenty of rear grip and not enough front! But working on that.
Oh and I also run the front higher then the back, tried it the other way around with no success.
FST4RD is offline  
Old 03-08-2012, 07:56 PM
  #7832  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 81
Default

The F104pro kit rear tyres, can you get the exact same tyre but for the F103 rims?
FST4RD is offline  
Old 03-08-2012, 07:58 PM
  #7833  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 566
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Dan View Post
Will the aluminum roll damper set make a big difference over the stock setup on the X1?
I assume it'll be more consistent and not need rebuilding every race day. I've got one on the way to try so will post my findings then.
J-PaP is offline  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:11 PM
  #7834  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 566
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by FST4RD View Post
I run the rear end as "loose" as possible. I removed the friction disks altogether, loosened the t-bar screw as much as I could, although I will glue the oring in place cause loosening the screw to much can cause drag on the ground. Also soft rear shock with the spring wound almost all the way out (again depends on how tall your tyres are and ground clearance). Also I run the TRG wing, the Tamiya one os useless and I kept breaking them from the smallest hits. Now I have the problem of plenty of rear grip and not enough front! But working on that.
Oh and I also run the front higher then the back, tried it the other way around with no success.
If you make the back higher it will improve steering
J-PaP is offline  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:25 PM
  #7835  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 81
Default

Right... I might have to have a fiddle.
I was having a real issue with the back wanting to spin around in corners, so I changed a few things and went to foam 25's on the back.
The back is nice and glued now going through corners and now just need to sort the front.

In saying that I have just changed to the 3racing F103 front end and still tuning it. Was running 0 camber, wound it in a bit to about 1.5-2 degrees camber which helped.
I also have the castor adjustment as well which I am yet to play around with.
FST4RD is offline  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:26 PM
  #7836  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,181
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Use this mod on the T-bar http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-pro-t-bar.jpg.
It will give you more rear bite

regards Roy
Pro10noob is offline  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:53 PM
  #7837  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 566
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

I tried the sponge but found you had to cut it in half for it to work. The full sponge causes the car to arch in the middle
J-PaP is offline  
Old 03-08-2012, 08:56 PM
  #7838  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
 
robk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Macho Business Donkey Wrestler
Posts: 8,045
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Vicko View Post
dose harder spring in the center shock give more rear traction?
I am in need of more rear traction. with tamiya tires, using kit fronts and soft rears hard sping in front already.. using the 104 not the X anyone have any input?
Raise the rear shock ball stud on the damper plate by 2mm to start.
robk is offline  
Old 03-09-2012, 02:42 AM
  #7839  
dfx
Tech Adept
 
dfx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Europe
Posts: 131
Default

Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Anyway, hope you all like...
Nice car, thanks for the pictures!
Curious how it is working on the track...
dfx is offline  
Old 03-09-2012, 07:32 AM
  #7840  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (47)
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 3,964
Trader Rating: 47 (100%+)
Default

Anyone have a starting roll out for a Reedy Sonic 21.5? Track has an 80 to 90 foot straight. I plan to use the stock 93 tooth spur since I actually got the diff pretty smooth with the stock spur.
Apex is offline  
Old 03-09-2012, 08:24 AM
  #7841  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,181
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

With or without a battery fitted??
I never had the car "arch" in the middle with the sponge
With a battery fitted, and it depends on what battery the t-bar will sit equall or a bit higher then the chassisplate.
If it arches up the the spring tension is to high.
If it is opposite you need to preload the spring a bit.

regards Roy

Originally Posted by J-PaP View Post
I tried the sponge but found you had to cut it in half for it to work. The full sponge causes the car to arch in the middle
Pro10noob is offline  
Old 03-09-2012, 09:47 AM
  #7842  
Tech Adept
 
Northskate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 124
Default f104 3.5mm uprights

I just received my f104 3.5mm uprights yesterday.
I looked at them up close with my original ones and cannot
notice a difference at all. Is it very subtle? Anyone know?
Should it be a big difference. Maybe they're already on my car.
Thanks
Northskate is offline  
Old 03-09-2012, 09:55 AM
  #7843  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,181
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Nothing we can do or say without pictures.

regards Roy
Pro10noob is offline  
Old 03-09-2012, 10:13 AM
  #7844  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
nrtv20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 962
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Northskate View Post
I just received my f104 3.5mm uprights yesterday.
I looked at them up close with my original ones and cannot
notice a difference at all. Is it very subtle? Anyone know?
Should it be a big difference. Maybe they're already on my car.
Thanks
The offset uprights should have the axle mounted behind the pin; the kit standard ones have the pin going through the axle.
nrtv20 is offline  
Old 03-09-2012, 02:34 PM
  #7845  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 566
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
With or without a battery fitted??
I never had the car "arch" in the middle with the sponge
With a battery fitted, and it depends on what battery the t-bar will sit equall or a bit higher then the chassisplate.
If it arches up the the spring tension is to high.
If it is opposite you need to preload the spring a bit.

regards Roy
Basically without anything in there the car was even/sagged a tiny bit. Added the sponge and it was arching in the middle (without a battery). Even when the battery was fitted the sponge seemed too thick and wouldn't compress enough to allow the t bar to move freely. I basically run my centre shock with 0-1mm pre load.

I didn't end up trying it but if the sponge was cut in half it definitely would have worked great.
J-PaP is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.