ioyasm

the only way to get that tube is to get a hole new upper kit .i have broken mine to .what you can do is get the tube kit from crc gen x car kit and shortin the aluminim tube cut one ring of plastic and drill out cup holder for tamiya threads ,is a lot cheaper ,or like me dont hit shi. so hard

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

Yep would agree my car not like hitting stuff either I certainly don't blame my driving I just question who put the obstical there to start

terry.sc

Never liked mounting it facing up myself because of what it does to the ackermann, but each to their own. The F104 servo is supposed to be mounted vertically like the F103, so if you have mounted it flat then the linkages should line up much the same as on the F104 or easily adjusted by shims if necessary.

There is no adjustments at all on the F103 front end, all you can do is change the springs and preload. Keeps things nice and simple. If you want adjustment get the 3Racing F109 front end and alloy caster mount, has both caster and camber adjustments. I used to run an F109, but mounted the F103 front end on it as it was more consistent then the F109 one.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Did the same, too many adjustments and too much play.

KidFrost

iTrader: (1)

sweet

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

having run on the weekend using a friends f104x1 and ended up winning. i was amazed as i don't really have that much of an idea on how to setup the chassis.

i was chasing corner entry turn-in all day. went from gold to silver springs, helped a little, also tried more camber. but was still lacking.

is there something i can do to achieve this, or should i just run a softer front tyre

Howler

I raised the rear ride height of the car. Was amazed at how much better it tracked into the corner on power.

mkennedy

iTrader: (26)

try raising the center of the car(spring pre-load) and make sure the diff isnt too tight

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

This helped me last weekend and also kept the rear grip, thanks Mike.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Leave the servo as it is, same side plates and you can use the same front battery brace, as in the pic shown a few posts back.
Can use the same uprights/spindles (or the 3.5 offsets you asked about)but will need to shorten or replace the kingpins as also mentioned recently.
And of course the longer tierods, just unscrewing the ballcup ends will be sketchy cuz the threads will be nearly all the way out.
There's really not much involved, take a close look at all the recent info listed here in the past couple pages.

jlask

@I)arkness

hudy setup

at the last pages there is a diagram with everything you should do with priority level depending on the problem you have.

wet
height front 3
height rear 4
silver (soft) springs front
red (soft) spring rear a bit tight, 600silicone
a bit loosen tbar middle screw (1.5mm tbar)
camber 1.5
toe 0 to +1 depending on the track (chicanes, S etc)
& diff grease RB
diff not blocked (not too tight)

sunny
everything the same except front springs gold (medium)
and diff a little bit blocked

ps: Softer front tires, helps for sure.
ps1: now that is cold and wet we use at the track shimizu ps 0561 front ps0565 Rear on ride wheels. Works great! Above 20C forget it. Ideal conditions. temperature 5-15C and wet track.

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

yeah i know about setting up touring cars and minis, but dont have a clue on f1's

thanks everyone for the tips/ advice.

at least i now have somewhat of an idea of what to do.

cheers

procomphys

agree

dfx

This picture from Exotek should help... You'll need post in place of the rear part of F104 lower arms.

Taman

iTrader: (67)

Hi mate, not sure if this will help but the new damper that fits the RM-01 apparently also fits the F104X1 - 54342 RM-01 Aluminum Roll Damper Set. It's an oil filled damper so it's not exactly the peice your after but it may be a better option.

Stellamodels.net has it on their web pages, great place to shop with good prices.