Tamiya F104 Pro!
#7457
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)

One of the bigger onroad series in Europe (ETS) is starting a F1 class, with 180mm and rubber. http://ets.redrc.net/rules
Yeah but to be fair they're also forcing you to use speed passion esc & motors, as well as only buying Tamiya or Hpi hop-ups.
The BRCA rules are much better imo.. Open Speedo, 21.5, Any chassis 180mm on rubber in modern class, and any 200mm chassis on foam in retro class.
Due to the popularity of the F109 in the UK the retro class has a much bigger attendance and it's also quicker than 180mm rubber.
I have the parts to run my car in either configuration so either is good for me.
#7458
Tech Initiate

hey guys, i got one of these cars and i run foams,
theres understeer on entry to a corner
and heaps of oversteer during the exit,
theres not much f1 cars in my area so i have to race the 4 wheel drive turing cars and they drive so much more aggresive. any help with tuning would be great, ive heard alot about camber but im not sure how
theres understeer on entry to a corner
and heaps of oversteer during the exit,
theres not much f1 cars in my area so i have to race the 4 wheel drive turing cars and they drive so much more aggresive. any help with tuning would be great, ive heard alot about camber but im not sure how
#7459
Tech Apprentice

Front foams are approx 58mm and 54mm on the rear
Sides are rounded slightly
Car chassis sits perfectly flat
Don't use traction fluid at all
Someone suggested raising the front up?
#7460
Tech Apprentice

Oh I also run 2 degrees camber on the front.
I rebuilt the rear diff, it's just tight enough that it doesn't slip, nice and smooth though.
I rebuilt the rear diff, it's just tight enough that it doesn't slip, nice and smooth though.
#7461

Plus 1 for those rules.
It was also a issue at the european finales in the Tamiya cup.
You couldn't use the F103 any more but only the F104.
Strange is that they did allow the F104W
So the difference between 180 and 200MM cars was still there
Also you had to buy the batteries,tires and motor there.
Now that would cost you....
It was the main reason why i didn't go.
It is better to split the classes in 2.
Modern and retro F1 cars
regards Roy
It was also a issue at the european finales in the Tamiya cup.
You couldn't use the F103 any more but only the F104.
Strange is that they did allow the F104W
So the difference between 180 and 200MM cars was still there

Also you had to buy the batteries,tires and motor there.
Now that would cost you....
It was the main reason why i didn't go.
It is better to split the classes in 2.
Modern and retro F1 cars

regards Roy
Yeah but to be fair they're also forcing you to use speed passion esc & motors, as well as only buying Tamiya or Hpi hop-ups.
The BRCA rules are much better imo.. Open Speedo, 21.5, Any chassis 180mm on rubber in modern class, and any 200mm chassis on foam in retro class.
Due to the popularity of the F109 in the UK the retro class has a much bigger attendance and it's also quicker than 180mm rubber.
I have the parts to run my car in either configuration so either is good for me.
The BRCA rules are much better imo.. Open Speedo, 21.5, Any chassis 180mm on rubber in modern class, and any 200mm chassis on foam in retro class.
Due to the popularity of the F109 in the UK the retro class has a much bigger attendance and it's also quicker than 180mm rubber.
I have the parts to run my car in either configuration so either is good for me.
#7462

@FST4RD...Loose the camber.
Try to get the front and rear tires the same diameter.
Set the car lower at the front then the rear.
When using the F103 tires at the rear, the car will become 200MM at the rear but still is 180 at the front.
This will cause a sharper steering car.
Try this(see pic) with the T-bar,it will help a lot.
Also do you run the steel ar carbon rear axle?
regards Roy
Try to get the front and rear tires the same diameter.
Set the car lower at the front then the rear.
When using the F103 tires at the rear, the car will become 200MM at the rear but still is 180 at the front.
This will cause a sharper steering car.
Try this(see pic) with the T-bar,it will help a lot.
Also do you run the steel ar carbon rear axle?
regards Roy
#7464
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)

The F104 is normally 145mm rear and 150mm front.
The F103 is normally 160mm rear and 170mm front.
Race cars are supposed to have a wider track at the front to help stability through corners, you might find a way to setup the F104 to run with F103 rears, but you're fighting a loosing battle I think.
It's not just a case of "more traction from bigger rears". you're fundamentally altering the weight transfer of the car from outer front tire in the corner exit, to outer rear which will make the car over steer on exit.
#7465

hey guys, i got one of these cars and i run foams,
theres understeer on entry to a corner
and heaps of oversteer during the exit,
theres not much f1 cars in my area so i have to race the 4 wheel drive turing cars and they drive so much more aggresive. any help with tuning would be great, ive heard alot about camber but im not sure how
theres understeer on entry to a corner
and heaps of oversteer during the exit,
theres not much f1 cars in my area so i have to race the 4 wheel drive turing cars and they drive so much more aggresive. any help with tuning would be great, ive heard alot about camber but im not sure how
Higher rear end than front end works for me aswell. Using traction compound only for rears (F104 wheels).
#7467
Tech Apprentice

@FST4RD...Loose the camber.
Try to get the front and rear tires the same diameter.
Set the car lower at the front then the rear.
When using the F103 tires at the rear, the car will become 200MM at the rear but still is 180 at the front.
This will cause a sharper steering car.
Try this(see pic) with the T-bar,it will help a lot.
Also do you run the steel ar carbon rear axle?
regards Roy
Try to get the front and rear tires the same diameter.
Set the car lower at the front then the rear.
When using the F103 tires at the rear, the car will become 200MM at the rear but still is 180 at the front.
This will cause a sharper steering car.
Try this(see pic) with the T-bar,it will help a lot.
Also do you run the steel ar carbon rear axle?
regards Roy
I'll try your suggestions out... fingers crossed!
Also I was running 1 degree camber. But is it normal for the outside of the tyre to wear slightly more then the inside?
#7468
Tech Apprentice
#7469
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)

What everyone else is using at your track is usually best. I race only carpet and foam, so I use Paragon. But for rubber tires try Jack the Gripper or Trinity Death Grip and see what you like. DG works best on low traction, and JTG when you have a groove on the track. Avoid paragon on asphault, whether you run foam or rubber.
#7470
Tech Apprentice

What everyone else is using at your track is usually best. I race only carpet and foam, so I use Paragon. But for rubber tires try Jack the Gripper or Trinity Death Grip and see what you like. DG works best on low traction, and JTG when you have a groove on the track. Avoid paragon on asphault, whether you run foam or rubber.
We all run foams on outdoor asphault on a reasonably grippy track...