RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Loosen the side roll up as much as possible, and add some pod droop.

This made a big difference at the iic race.

robk

iTrader: (22)

Rubber or foam?

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Hey guys, thinking about picking up a a F1 car. I hear the 104 platform is the way to go, but there appears to be a 104, 104 pro, 104X1. Which one should I get for racing and why?

Appreciate the help.

LordAnubis

iTrader: (19)

All will be ready to race out of the ox to some extent.

F104 F60:
Complete chassis, you should be set with it. You may want to get upgrade parts like oil shock, turnbuckles, alloy diff housing and alloy motor mount.

F104 Pro:
Complete Chassis. Probably the best value for money. Only upgrade part you will need is alloy motor mount, other than that its good to go straight out the box.

F104W:
Complete Chassis. Same as F60, you'll need the mentioned parts to get it reliable.

F104X1:
Not a complete chassis, you'll need to buy wing set seperately, and i believe a body too (may be wrong about the body). Good racing car though comes with all the hop ups you'll need.

Apparently for carpet foam racing the f104W is the go, tarmac foam the f104 Pro and tarmac rubber the f104x1 seems the goods.

Hope that helps ya. Ohh if you're keen get the 104Pro and then get the conversion to give it the side dampner like the X1.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

All are good. The F104s (F60 or McLaren) are basic kits and would need some bearings, an oil damper, good tie rods and ends, plastic suspension balls replaced with aluminum, motor pod will be plastic etc. The good parts are, body, wheels, silvercan motor.

The Pro kits are all good stuff including carbon fiber chassis (although the FRP/fiberglass has been favored for asphalt low bite conditions), oil damper, aluminum parts, bearings etc. but no body or wheels.

The X1 is the best of all of it and also has the new side damper and hub/balancer as well as all the other good stuff.
I'd say snatch up an X1 if you can, as they became instantly discontinued but all parts are available only in blue anodized form and can be used to convert a Pro or even a basic F104 for a fair price. Just know you'll need to get a body and of course wheels and tires. Pit Shimizu 571 and 572 are unmatched for tire performance.

The F104 Ws are 200mm wide and may not be included in some clubs "Realistic" specifications due to them being wider than the recently more accepted 180mm Modern specs.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Thanks guys for the information. I will be racing at TQ in Chino once I get everything going. So it sounds like the X1 is the best bang for the buck. Does the Pro come with tires and a body? Again, thanks for the help!!

LordAnubis

iTrader: (19)

The F104Pro came with body and foam tyres and rims. The f104pro black edition im reasonably certain comes with everything, but neve bought the kit myself so cant say for sure.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

Thanks I'll take a look at the f104 pro black edition.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

See you at TQ man!
Just do the X1 and come on out.

Robotech

I'm having the same issue. I put 10K oil on the side dampner and figure maybe I should clean that off and go with none for right now...maybe try some 5k if I need more. As for the droop, I'm only seeing adjusting preload as a way of adding droop. Is this what you are talking about or am I just missing something?

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Hold the car up in the air and loosen the center T plate screw, that's gonna add droop. Max droop will be with the center screw removed, just be sure to glue the o ring (or a pink foam for the shock) back in place or the ride height will drop a bunch and the belly will drag. For even more droop you can unscrew the shock shaft end to extend the overall length.
The X1 suggests putting an o ring under the piston to limit the overall length so unscrewing the shock end will allow you to get some of that length back.
Try going to 2000w on the damper, even wipe it off a bit after working it a little, just barely noticeable is how I run my side damper.
I also run soft spring with very little preload on the center shock.

Sydewynder

Pod droop is adjusted by lenthening or shortening the center shock. You can get more droop by backing out the shock ballcup or removing a spacer/o-ring inside the shock if you have one. Reduce droop by doing the opposite. The easiest to do is backing out/screwing in the ballcup.

Sydewynder

Mr. Hammon beats me to it again. Ahaha.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

If the center T plate screw is snug, you may not even reach the full length of the shock but if the shock is just too short to begin with then yeh, go inside and remove spacer(s) or unscrew shock end.

Sydewynder

Yep you are correct. I notice I left out the center screw after but since you already mentioned it......it's not like people read my posts anyway.