alan1467

I'm running the Tamiya 12T brushless with 7.4V lipo and in a straight line it's very unstable but great around the corners

Alan

JayL

I have run 17.5 and silver can, no straight issues, high grip asphalt 120'+ straight.

jim_ed

Its a lot of people that are having straight issues,including me. I think its a weight problem with the car, Its designed for brushed and ni-mh batt. And using BL and lipo the car gets to lite

-Do u want to share ur setup, lipo,motor,car setup,tires.?

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

I don't know how those guys on 5.5 can actually make this car tamed. I'm on a motor that's equivalent, if not faster, than a 23T. It's already a handful for me. Previously I was on 7.5 and it was never been able to run properly.

Alfie

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

If you are running with the stock silver can, it will definitely be good all around. Tamiya cannot possibly package something that has handling issues before going out of their factories.

Perhaps you should try something faster, since you have got your F104 dialled.

I'll be trying more tires this weekend to give more feedbacks about this car.
Alfie

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, I'm experiencing the same thing. Especially when I need to correct my racing line before entering the corner after the straight, the slightest twitch in the steering creates havoc.

Alfie

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

The fastest i went was with the Black Can offered by BK. It was good.

was it a 23T?

stocker

iTrader: (2)

How's the difference between 17.5 and silver can (or even the hobby wing unsensored 13T)? in terms of gearing, acceleration, ease of driving?

alan1467

Yes that's waht my F104 is like any movement how ever small in a straight line at speed and it's a high speed crash, otherwise the car is great.

tried diffeerent toe in/out , camber , servo tyres and nothing help

Running Tamiya 12T brushless (23T eq) and lipo so may try adding some weight but not sure that will help but could be wrong.

Is everyone else that is have this problem running lipo? or std nimh?

Need some help as I'm getting very disappointed with a great car

Alfie

iTrader: (17)

It's equalled to 23T. But of course, we cannot rebuild the motor like the 23T ones.

Alfie

killingtime

iTrader: (3)

Ok, let me ask a different way.

What is everyone using to true the tires? Which arbor? Where did you get it?

Arahawak

iTrader: (32)

The guys i ran with were on lipos and their cars looks quite dialled. I was running Nimhs.

I followed the instructions and built the car, with alu mount and the FRP T-bar. no other mods were done. Only extra was the lay-down servo which reduces bump steer.

No such issues about the car being sensitive on the straights. In fact when i had no issues with the diff, i could gun out of the corners. and it stayed. and i was on a 23t motor.

maybe a re-built is in order.. just to check if any thing went wrong?

InZane

iTrader: (2)

I'm soooo pleased with the car after my first tests!
This chassis has great potential - believe me! There are some problems with the stiff up&down/back&forth T-bar movement, uneven chassis flex and less preferred weight distribution (if you ask me - that's why I opted for saddle pack lipos). But these things can be sorted out.



I had no problems with the high speed stability or push in tight corners. I'd say that i haven't had a car handling this well the first time ever before.



As for the T-bar flex I dremeled small slits on both sides of the pivot screw to make it softer back&forh without affecting the side to side stiffness. Hard springs at the front and teflon tape and low friction damper disc with 70 damper oil between (very free), kit oil&spring with no pre load on the shock, kit tires with Garnier 50+ SPF sun protection.



Total weight is 1090 grams - 40/60 Front/Rear.

youb

What is the difference between the tyre A and B?

The B is more hard?

Tks for your answer.

JayL

I have been running the reedy 3400 lipo that looks like a stick pack. I also used a full sixe with metal heat sink servo to add some weight to the front of the cars, and I mount the amb on the servo

The car is faster with the 17.5, mostly on the straight.

The things that really dialed the car in for me are:

1. diff adjustment, very very small adjustment's. I start with alittle slip and tighten until it feels right, if the car whip's around coming on throttle corner exit you went too tight

2. the middle dampner post, tighten the nut until the rear end thinks its a drift car then lossen, in very small amounts, unitl the car feels balanced

3. the center shock, tighten the collar until you can feel the fronts working mid corner

4. smaller front tires with alittle rake, front lower than rear, in the car.